Hey TODD, thanks for responding to those older posts. But, this one here is where I'm at in this so far. I think I have a complete bypass of the vats module figured out. I just need someone to verify that grounding the yellow/black wire from the vats module will bypass the starter relay. If that's right, then with this vats bypass square wave generator we have I can completely cut the vats module out of the loop.
I couldn't wait so I checked the yellow/black wire coming off the vats module for voltage and ohms. Used the ground point on the steering column.
Key @ off, .1mv and 5 ohms
Key @ Run, 50mv and 90 ohms
Seems like it at least doesn't carry power. So I can a wire and grounded it on the steering column.
Nothing. No difference. Idi did notice that the clicking I hear when I try to start is coming from the area of the pcm. I seem to be hearing some kind of pump coming on too.
I guess that was a bad test. That yellow/black wire is the one. Once I realized the green wire in the VATS connector was ground, all I had to do was put a jumper wire between them and it started.
Then it died of course. So I added the baker bypass module and viola, no more VATS hassles.
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But this was just a test. Now I need a good way to hook this up permanently without having to solder up in there laying upside down and reaching up into a hole.
Best idea I have is to take the old VATS module out, cut off the connector and see if i can solder to that, then clip the bypass on.
20171016_180643.jpgFor anyone else who ever needs to do this... Yellow is the jumper wire. Black goes to ground with the jumper wire. Blue is the signal wire and goes to the dark blue wire on the VATS connector, red goes to the double pink wires which are 12v while the ignition is on, off when it's off.
Please note that the pic just shows a rigged up proof of concept. Thats not how it should be permanently connected. I'm still looking for advice on that.
Oh yeah, and I also need to find out how to disable the security light, e.g. which wire to cut. It wants to be on all the time now, wasting juice. Anyone know what powers it? Seems like it should come from the VATS but it's unplugged. And. The light still works.
20171017_100652.jpgThese old computer power source wires' ends seem like the fit right into the connector. I had to cut it apart but I got the right colors out.
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20171017_115542.jpgIt didn't clip in as snug as I'd like so I added a zip tie.
I wasn't happy with the look of it at first. But, after lots of wiggling and pulling on it, it's surprisingly sturdy. Seems like it'll hold for years of bumpy roads.
I didn't solder anything. Just twisted, wrapped in tape and then a little heatshrink to keep the tape tight. I hope that's ok. Seems like how remember my Dad doing it in the old days. Don't think he even had heatshrink.
20171017_125308.jpgNow the wires are long enough to keep the detachable bypass module in the glovebox. Though I really doubt I'll ever park it anywhere that would be necessary.
The security light is really bugging me now. Anyone know where I can find it's wires?
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