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Thread: Need to bypass the starter enable/disable relay

  1. #21
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    Started a new thread about my quest for this mysterious security light.
    https://www.teambuick.com/forums/sho...625#post105625

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by 95ParkAve View Post
    Attachment 7352For anyone else who ever needs to do this... Yellow is the jumper wire. Black goes to ground with the jumper wire. Blue is the signal wire and goes to the dark blue wire on the VATS connector, red goes to the double pink wires which are 12v while the ignition is on, off when it's off.

    Please note that the pic just shows a rigged up proof of concept. Thats not how it should be permanently connected. I'm still looking for advice on that.
    Okay, so I have a 92 Park Avenue with the same problem. I bought the car not-running, but it had the security light flashing. I thought I was getting a good deal since this has been an easy enough fix in the past. I jump started it to confirm and I did get it to start once, but it ran for about 4 seconds before shutting off. I did the resister bypass under the steering wheel and no luck. It kept flashing and wouldn't start at all. It cranks, but no start. So I find information about people bypassing the entire system. Every Chevy I've had this problem out of I fixed with the resister bypass, but it was on Buick forums I found people were having this issue. I order the device from Baker Electronix and pour over this thread to figure out how to wire it up. I pretty much copied the quoted post as a test. I'm afraid I may be stuck without a fuel pressure gauge as I have no idea if the fuel pump is engaging. It acted like it wanted to hit once, but no luck. The one time it started ( and died in a few seconds ) it was also hard to start. I had to pump the throttle ( which is weird enough in a fuel injected car ), but that didn't work this time. I guess I'll need a fuel pressure gauge to make sure the BE bypass is actually signaling for it to activate the fuel pump. My worry is that I won't be able to tell if I have a bad pump or a defective bypass device.

    So now that I've told my story, here is my question I'm hoping you guys can help me with. The car is a 92. The module just says "Pass-Key" on it. Would Pass-Key II specifically have the "II" on it? IF I do have a Pass-Key I, does it require a different signal so that my Baker Bypass won't actually work?

  3. #23
    you might want to consider bypassing the ignition switch altogether and running the starter / ignition off of underdash rockers. you could keep the ignition key for the steering lock but such a setup would probably baffle most thieves.

    why a thief would be stealing a 92 Buick, i have no idea.

    on race cars, we set up the switches as a momentary rocker ( you have to hold it down ) for the starter motor and a second normal switch for car power / fuel pump / etc. this allows us to spin the crank ( momentary switch ) until oil pressure comes up at which point we toggle the IGN switch and allow the car to fire off.

    there's no reason why you couldn't hit the IGN switch first and then toggle the starter as needed though.
    The way to crush the bourgeoisie is to grind them between the millstones of taxation and inflation.
    Vladimir Lenin

    Government schooling is about "the perfect organization of the hive."
    H.H. Goddard, Human Efficiency (1920)

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by bob k. mando View Post
    you might want to consider bypassing the ignition switch altogether and running the starter / ignition off of underdash rockers. you could keep the ignition key for the steering lock but such a setup would probably baffle most thieves.

    why a thief would be stealing a 92 Buick, i have no idea.

    on race cars, we set up the switches as a momentary rocker ( you have to hold it down ) for the starter motor and a second normal switch for car power / fuel pump / etc. this allows us to spin the crank ( momentary switch ) until oil pressure comes up at which point we toggle the IGN switch and allow the car to fire off.

    there's no reason why you couldn't hit the IGN switch first and then toggle the starter as needed though.
    None of that matters if I can't get the ECM to realize it's not stolen and actually let it run.

  5. #25
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    Okay, so I found this video with the Baker Electronix bypass that I have. His car is a 91, so it's actually one year older than mine. He wasn't aware of the black/yellow wire that when grounded lets it crank that 95ParkAve discovered in this thread. He also ran a hot wire from the other side of the car instead of just using the pink wire that 95ParkAve also used. However, the most informative thing from that video is that he uses the 30hrtz signal instead of the 50. Now I'm so glad I ordered the one with both signals. I had been trying the blue wire, but now I know the use the green. Hopefully I'll get a chance to work on it again soon and get it started.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zkQO1lkTE0I

  6. #26
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    The 1991-92 Park Avenue has the PASS-Key I system. Parts list shows the module is a part no 16135270 which is on the label. The module in the video of the '91 has this same no.

    The PASS-Key II notation first shows up in the '93 shop manual in some but not all the descriptions, charts, and drawings etc. Typical part no is 16215659. No mention of Pass-Key appears on labels of used units on the Net. Best to go by part numbers. Pin numbers in use are different for the I and II versions, but wire color codes stay the same.

    The ECM on the '91-93 Park Avenues have the same part number. So it is reasonable to assume it looks for the same pulse rate coming in on the dark blue line from either type of Pass-Key module. No info could be located on which models use the 30 vs 50 Hz pulse rate.

    A DC voltmeter can be used on the dark blue wire to ground to confirm presence of the pulse signal coming out of the PASS-Key module. With the ignition switch in the RUN position, reading should be about +2.5V. A reading of +5.0V indicates the pulses are not coming in. A reading of 0 volts indicates the signal line is shorted to ground or there is defect in the ECM. Readings can be confirmed by then checking with the PASS-Key module disconnected. An AC voltmeter should also be able to detect the pulses. A meter that will measure frequency could even tell what the pulse rate is.

    There is a diagnostic trouble code 58 for PASS-Key fuel enable circuit which could be of interest. Codes can be read out as pulses on the Service Engine Soon light by grounding a pin at the data connector socket.

    When the ECM fails to sense the proper pulse train from the PASS-Key module, it shuts down the fuel injectors, not the fuel pump. Running for a few seconds then dying matches the shop manual description of how the ECM shuts down the fuel injectors. One check would be to listen for fuel pump to run for two seconds whenever the ignition switch goes to RUN.

    It sounds like you are on the right track to get it running.
    What has been, can be again. (Bob Wills, 1942)

  7. #27
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    Okay, update time. I finally got time to work on this car again and pulled the plug apart to expose the wires that go into the Pass-Key module. I wired up the baker electronix module, red wire to the pink and grounded the black to the frame. The wires coming from the car, I grounded the yellow-black to enable engine crank. Although, unlike the guy in the video, mine would always crank. I then hooked the green wire ( like the one from the video ) from the module to the blue wire. Still won't start. I don't even get the 3 second run then die. Just nothing. Much like the guy that started this thread, the security light was still on. I thought maybe grounding the green wire from the car would do it as someone said that controlled the light. It did nothing.

    However, as soon as I switch back to the blue wire from the module to the blue wire from the car, the security light goes off. Which is weird since I thought the pulse going to the ecm and the and the light were both controlled from the Pass-Key module that I removed. The OP got his car to run, but the light was on because of the module being bypassed. So I have no idea what's going on. IF the blue wire works the light, then which wire goes to the ECM to let the injectors run? Why would the car in the video and my car which have the same part number module run off different pulse rates?

    Side note, I'm going to go back out in a few minutes and hook up the fuel pressure tester. It sounds like I should have fuel pressure regardless of the security issue according to TODD. If I don't, then I gotta track down the fuel delivery issue. I'm hoping it's just something simple like needing to hook up a different wire under the dash, but it may be a faulty pump. I really don't want to buy a pump too. Especially if I still can't get it to run even then. That's money down the toilet. If I can't get past this security issue and get the car cranking, it's going to the scrap yard. So any parts bought will be wasted money.

  8. #28
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    Update

    Okay, so this is weird. After hooking up the Baker Electronix box, the car still wouldn't start. I decided to check for other problems just in case it worked, but there was something else wrong. A few days ago, I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge to see if the pump worked. It had good fuel pressure. So today, I bought an inline spark tester and a set of fuel injector testers. I pulled one wire off the coil pack and hooked up the inline tester. I only slightly hit the key because I wanted to see if I could even see the light from the driver's seat. I couldn't, so I was going to get a helper, but I noticed something. On that half crank, the car sputtered... So I hit the key again, and it fired right up. Purrs like a kitten. I'm not sure why it worked today when it didn't a few days ago, but praise the Lord, it works now. Because I honestly didn't do anything to it other than unplug and replug one spark plug wire... So mine is working now. Just gotta fix the brakes next.

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