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Thread: Need to bypass the starter enable/disable relay

  1. #1
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    Question Need to bypass the starter enable/disable relay

    Man, in all my weeks of searching the net and asking questions at forums, nobody ever mentioned there might be a starter disabling relay too.

    This probably explains my no crank situation after replacing the ignition lock cylinder.

    Thankfully, I got this email from Baker Electronix after we ordered their vats bypass module... which we may not need now, but maybe it'll be useful later when vats does croak.

    We've been told by other customers that their 1995 Buick Park Ave also disables the starter. If your vehicle is not even cranking over (starter motor disabled) you should bypass the starter enable/disable relay first, before trying to use our module, as you might not even need our module. Typically the two wires that need to be jumpered, on a crank enable/disable relay, are the same color as each other (often, the are both yellow) and they should be the two largest wires going to that relay. You will need to connect these two (same color larger sized) wires together (crimp or solder or use an appropriate jumper wire) to bypass the crank disable/enable relay. Before jumpering any wires together, make SURE that you have identified the proper relay and the proper wires.
    If your vehicle cranks over fine (no starter disable), but shuts down its fuel injectors in 1-4 seconds or running/idling, then you need to install our VATS bypass (standard signal type).
    Does anyone know the location of this relay in the 95 park ave? Thanks

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    This image was for a 92 park avenue. I know the 93s have mostly the same parts. Maybe this one does too?
    2013-10-01_174909_re.jpg
    Looks like removing the instrument panel would be necessary to reach it. Sheesh i hope not.

  3. #3
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    I read that it may be possible to get to it from behind the instrument cluster. I didnt want to break it so it took awhile of gently pulling for it to pop off. Wish I'd known it just plugs in and pops off. And...
    20170929_143820.jpgI nearly freakin wept. Looks like I'd have to remove ALL the dash and air conditioning ducts to get to it!

    I think one of the wires goes to the fuse 1A. Can i get access to the other yellow wire on the other side of that relay from somewhere else?

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    Ok so bypassing the starter enable relay wouldn't be the end of it, even if it seemed possible because there's also the fuel pump enable relay to worry about.

    The easiest way seems to be the resistor bypass of passkey. So, I took my makeshift bypass apart, stripped and tinned the wires again and started experimenting with connecting the old key to the wires with a small plastic clamp.

    Looks like my passkey bypass was the problem! Maybe the old contacts had worn out. Now I can get the security light to go off every time.

    It also now makes an audible click at the starter and at least one other click inside when I try to start.

    If the starter was working fine before, what could be the problem now?

  5. #5
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    I ran into a no start condition on a 95 Monte Carlo a few years back. The ignition tumbler had worn and wasnt reading the little Vats pellet in the key. This resulted in no cranking, and no fuel pump. I found the relay and jumped it for a second and it would crank and fire. But I couldnt find a viable way to bypass it. The easiest way is to trick the Vats system. If you look at your key there should be a little black nub about 3/4 of the way up the key. Thats actually a resistor. If you measure the resistance with a meter you will get the value of the resistor you need. Next cut the thin little wires off the ignition switch and solder them to the new resistor you bought. Now the car will start anytime the ignition switch is turned. It also works great for installing remote starts you no longer need the bypass module.

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    Quote Originally Posted by My55buick View Post
    I ran into a no start condition on a 95 Monte Carlo a few years back. The ignition tumbler had worn and wasnt reading the little Vats pellet in the key. This resulted in no cranking, and no fuel pump. I found the relay and jumped it for a second and it would crank and fire. But I couldnt find a viable way to bypass it. The easiest way is to trick the Vats system. If you look at your key there should be a little black nub about 3/4 of the way up the key. Thats actually a resistor. If you measure the resistance with a meter you will get the value of the resistor you need. Next cut the thin little wires off the ignition switch and solder them to the new resistor you bought. Now the car will start anytime the ignition switch is turned. It also works great for installing remote starts you no longer need the bypass module.
    I tried to solder wires to the old key pellet. I got one side on alright. But the other side's plastic went liquid and swallowed the contact. I have another key I could try. But, soldering under the dash was tough and the fumes are nasty.

    I went ahead and ordered a pack of the resistors I need, along with a plastic terminal block to hook it up without soldering.

    Can't believe I almost took the dash apart. Can't believe there's so much to take out if I did.

  7. #7
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    Back to the original topic of this thread, just in case I need it later...

    I read online somewhere that to fix this you have to find the right wire, (somewhere near the neutral switch?) cut it and ground the right end of it. And, it sounds like this bypasses both the starter and fuel pump disabling relays.

    Anyone know what wire to look for? Where it is? If this even would work on this car? Thanks.

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    Question

    Found it again. http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com...opic33924.html

    Not exactly a buick but they're dealing with passkey and vats.

    Second post to the bottom says,
    ...ground the yellow/black coming from the neutral/position switch (Connector C1, position E). If it cranks then, your VATS module is shot.
    And here, http://pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/for...t=vats#p331539

    The same poster says,
    If a VATS module fails on the crank portion of the system, there is a yellow/black wire coming off of the neutral safety switch that must be grounded in order for cranking to occur. Doing both the fuel and crank bypasses will take VATS totally out of the equation and you'll never have to worry about it again.
    Does the 95 Park ave have a similar wire? If so, would someone please tell me where to look for it?

    On eBay I found a single beat up set of the service manuals I need for this car. But they're ridiculously overpriced for this old car, even if I could afford them.

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    Question

    Found the replacement part here. http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...tch/202931_0_0

    One of those connectors should hold the wire I need to ground to bypass the starter relay. But, which one? And, where does it connect in the car?

  10. #10
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    After about the 10th time looking at this wiring diagram, I think I may have figured it out.

    https://www.teambuick.com/forums/att...4&d=1506588142

    There is a yellow and black wire that runs from the starter enable relay control, inside the passkey decoder module, to the starter enable relay.

    In that relay control, it looks like "off" may be ungrounded and "on" grounded. This would explain the comments on that other site about grounding the yellow and black wire.

    In my case the wire seems to come from the passkey decoder module instead of the neutral switch, which in this car is called the transaxle position switch.

    So if I have this right I simply need to:

    1. Cut the yellow/black wire at the passkey module and ground the end going to the starter enable relay.
    a. Make sure this allows cranking.
    2. Cut the dark blue wire at the passkey module and install the 50hz square wave bypass module on the dark blue wire going to the pcm.
    a. Check this enabled the fuel pump

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