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Thread: Disabling/troubleshooting anti-theft system 95 Park Avenue

  1. #1
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    Question Disabling/troubleshooting anti-theft system 95 Park Avenue

    A few months ago the anti-theft system in our 95 Park ave started going off randomly, usually only at night and once while my wife was driving. The horn blows intermittently when that happens.

    I looked it up online back then and the only info I could find about it was that I could disconnect the horn. So I did that just to get it to stop waking us up in the middle of the night.

    Now I seem to have a parasitic power draw and I'm thinking it's probably the anti-theft system.

    The only info I can find online suggests that it I can locate which door or if the trunk is causing the problem, I can cut the light blue wire to disable the malfunctioning anti-theft sensor.

    But how would I know which door it is, or if it's the trunk? Isn't there a way to just disable the whole system from one place? We don't need it.
    Last edited by 95ParkAve; 09-16-2017 at 09:11 AM. Reason: typo

  2. #2
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    This is one of the only references to this problem i can find online. http://www.automotiveforums.com/t265...xpectedly.html

    But, they were cutting wires. And I don't know which door is causing it.


    I think I actually found the solution. But it's too vague to be useful to a diyer.
    https://www.justanswer.com/buick/3ja...-security.html

    I just need to back out the "LIGHT BLUE WIRE AT THE MODULE (CKT 263)" .


  3. #3
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    Looked up what the anti-theft module looks like on partsgeek and then I looked for it. I think i found it under the passenger side.
    20170916_134907.jpg

    It has a puzzle connector, bummer.
    20170916_134918.jpg

    And I don't see a light blue wire from this angle.

  4. #4
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    20170918_171236.jpgGot the wires spread out. Looks like a blue wire.

    20170918_172534.jpgGot lucky and this thing unplugged after a prying at the blue part first, then the white.

    On closer inspection this wire is dark blue. ****. Now what?

  5. #5
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    This thing has a parasitic draw and the biggest culprit is this ancient anti-theft system. Somehow it's draining the battery with only the positive side attached. Anyone ever heard of that?

  6. #6
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    I read here...
    (PDF alert) https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...iqZVydNhxKr4Bw

    ...the anti-theft module is apparently part of the BCM. So I wonder what I was looking at.

    Off to find the BCM. Maybe it'll have that light blue wire I'm looking for.

  7. #7
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    PASS-Key II decoder module

    Quote Originally Posted by 95ParkAve View Post
    20170918_171236.jpgGot the wires spread out. Looks like a blue wire.

    20170918_172534.jpgGot lucky and this thing unplugged after a prying at the blue part first, then the white.

    On closer inspection this wire is dark blue. ****. Now what?
    This module is the PASS-Key II decoder module. The dark blue wire is the cranking fuel enable output PWM signal going to the PCM. Do not cut any wires in here.
    What has been, can be again. (Bob Wills, 1942)

  8. #8
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    Anti-theft module/theft deterrent module/PASS-Key II decoder module

    Quote Originally Posted by 95ParkAve View Post
    I read here...
    (PDF alert) https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...iqZVydNhxKr4Bw

    ...the anti-theft module is apparently part of the BCM. So I wonder what I was looking at.

    Off to find the BCM. Maybe it'll have that light blue wire I'm looking for.
    Anti-theft module is a stand-alone component. '95 Park Avenue does not have a module that goes by the name BCM.
    What has been, can be again. (Bob Wills, 1942)

  9. #9
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    Thanks, I also just read something else that explains this. This car is too old to have a bcm. It just has this anti-theft module.

    I read that these things are designed to die every 7-10 years and GM would charge a grand each time to replace them. And it seems now they don't even make them anymore. People have to find them on ebay. And some are junking perfectly good cars over it. Pretty lame.

    That means the only real fix is a real bypass.


    The first one I found was a place called newrockies.com. They describe the problem very well since they're heavily marketing their overpriced bypass unit. At nearly $300 they're almost as mean as GM.

    But since all that's needed is a 50hz square wave generator, I almost got something like this on Amazon which I still think would have worked and solved this for under $10. https://www.amazon.com/WINGONEER-NE5...wave+generator

    Finally i stumbled across this site, http://www.bakerelectronix.com/products_vats/ and I'm pretty sure this is going to be our best bet. Fair prices and good reviews at ebay where they also sell these. I'm willing to pay a little more not to have to tune it and keep it at the right frequency.

    I almost didn't order because of their ridiculously ancient website though. I'll let you guys know how it goes.

  10. #10
    Somehow it's draining the battery with only the positive side attached. Anyone ever heard of that?


    you've got the module pulled off of the unibody? automotive design has always used the frame / unibody as central ground, even if you don't have a discrete negative wire run someplace.
    The way to crush the bourgeoisie is to grind them between the millstones of taxation and inflation.
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