Will this help?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZnxSEqDHhrs
20170916_095944.jpgIt's just your average digital multimeter. I don't know as much about it as I'd like to. I just barely understand electricity. It's one of the most confusing topics I've ever studied. And I read programmimg textbooks for fun.
If it needs a long complicated process of elimination to find the short then I'll either scrap this car or it'll just melt into the pavement waiting for me to spend a boatload of money on it.
But I think i know what's draining it. I posted about it here since it seems like a separate issue. https://www.teambuick.com/forums/sho...95-Park-Avenue
I'm 90% sure that's got to be the drain.
As it is, would a drain prevent cranking? The battery is charged now, and I'm keeping it charged by disconnecting it when I'm not messing with the car. Still can't get it to crank. Solenoid still doesn't click.
But the starter worked fine before I took apart the interior. So the problem should be with something on the interior. No?
Will this help?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZnxSEqDHhrs
Do you have another key to try. I have heard stories about the keys.
See attached instructions on how to check mounting position of the ignition switch and dimmer switch using a 3/32" drill bit to lock it in position.
What has been, can be again. (Bob Wills, 1942)
The passkey module can block vehicle operation two ways:
1. When correct key resistance is detected, passkey module completes the circuit to the starter enable relay coil. This enables the ignition switch to energize the starter solenoid during starting. The circuit is interrupted when the passkey module detects a problem with the key resistance.
Power for the starter enable relay coil comes from fuse 1A. This fuse also supplies the SDM airbag module. If this fuse is pulled, car will not start. Removal of Fuse 1C instead will disable the airbags.
2. The passkey module generates a PWM square-wave signal when it detects correct resistance on the key. This signal is then fed into the power train control module to enable the fuel injectors. If this signal is absent at the PCM, no fuel is supplied. Since this feature would be very difficult to disconnect or bypass, the passkey system has to be kept in operation.
The passkey system will activate the security warning light if it is blocking vehicle operation.
The universal theft deterrent system (door/trunk/horn alarm system) can also activate the security light. Those alarms do not affect vehicle starting.
What has been, can be again. (Bob Wills, 1942)
10-min and 30-min relearn procedures are not applicable to the '95 Park Avenue.
The red bolt on C202 may have stripped threads. Or the insert in the connector body may be stripped out. Also if a regular nut was used on the back side, it might have fallen out. There's probably several little latching fingers that have to be held open to get the connector to come apart. A 48-pin connector that hasn't been apart in 20+ years will give some resistance even when everything is free. Recommendation is to leave it alone unless there is specific reason to take it apart.
No-start condition and battery drain look to be separate issues.
What has been, can be again. (Bob Wills, 1942)
Thanks! I definitely did not set the switch in a special position before installing it. That could be it.
Unfortunately, it also says installing it in the wrong position can damage the switch.
And I've apparently done that twice now. So to answer my own question, yes these switches are incredibly delicate. Even the local mechanic said they're not.
Maybe I can reseat it one last time and get lucky.
Thanks. I was aware of that stuff. There's a bunch of info online about bypassing passkey.
The bypass seems to work since the security light is not coming on when I try to start it.
When it comes on is after every time I reattach the battery. But after doing the 10 min relearn procedure it goes away.
What? Relearn procedure not applicable? Then how is it seemingly working? And if it's not applicable then what is? What makes it freak out after disconnecting the battery?
I'd rather not have to deal with that connector. If the red bolt being stripped of whatever isn't a huge problem I'd like to leave that alone too.d
Glad you share my opinion about them being separate issues. I made another thread for the battery drain issue but no replies yet.https://www.teambuick.com/forums/sho...95-Park-Avenue Thanks again for your help, Todd.
Oh, and yes I have fuse 1a installed and it's a good fuse. 1c is still removed but shouldn't prevent starting as far as we know yeah?
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