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Thread: Trick to installing ignition switch?

  1. #21
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    I reinstalled the ignition switch and high beam button again using the info from the service manual. I took it off in the lock cylinder in the lock position and it appeared to already have been installed correctly. I

    I followed the instructions anyway and moved it all the way to the right using a small screwdriver, then one step back. It looked to be in the same position i started in.

    However when I got it all back together and turned the ignition, it did seem to have more travel towards the start direction. Got me a little excited.

    But then I discovered that the battery had been drained again, this time with the negative cable detached!

    What can drain a battery with only the positive side hooked up? Wow

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by TODD View Post
    10-min and 30-min relearn procedures are not applicable to the '95 Park Avenue.

    ...
    Besides the other page i shared about it here,
    https://www.teambuick.com/forums/sho...263#post105263

    I just found this (PDF alert) that states the procedure for passlock 2, which we definitely have, is nearly the same, but 11 min each time.
    https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...iqZVydNhxKr4Bw

  3. #23
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    Question

    Okay, progress. After the slightly different passkey reset outlined here https://www.teambuick.com/forums/sho...269#post105269 the security light is finally behaving.

    The security light goes off after a couple seconds but when turning to start there's still no cranking going on. It's odd, but I think hear a slight clicking now when I try to start it.

    Looks like even with the trickle charger hooked up during all that resetting, it still drained it quite a bit. Maybe after t it charges for awhile it'll finally start. This car is such a headache!


    Okay so to recap,
    1. The ignition switch is installed correctly
    2. The security light is going off

    I don't have long enough alligator clips to run the voltage drop tests. But the battery was tested and it's good, the starter and everything worked fine before I messed with the interior, and the battery cables are good and the terminals are clean.

    How do I test it the ignition switch is sending its signal? I can use my multimeter as an ammeter but it doesn't clip on.

  4. #24
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    Holy **** this piece of junk is infuriating. After letting it charge for a few hours I went to start it and the f'ing security light is back on. It started blinking when I opened the gawddamn door.

    This is just insane.

  5. #25
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    Dbl Oak,TX
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    Quote Originally Posted by 95ParkAve View Post
    Okay, progress. After the slightly different passkey reset outlined here https://www.teambuick.com/forums/sho...269#post105269 the security light is finally behaving.

    The security light goes off after a couple seconds but when turning to start there's still no cranking going on. It's odd, but I think hear a slight clicking now when I try to start it.

    Looks like even with the trickle charger hooked up during all that resetting, it still drained it quite a bit. Maybe after t it charges for awhile it'll finally start. This car is such a headache!


    Okay so to recap,
    1. The ignition switch is installed correctly
    2. The security light is going off

    I don't have long enough alligator clips to run the voltage drop tests. But the battery was tested and it's good, the starter and everything worked fine before I messed with the interior, and the battery cables are good and the terminals are clean.

    How do I test it the ignition switch is sending its signal? I can use my multimeter as an ammeter but it doesn't clip on.
    The clicking sound is a good sign. Hopefully it is the starter enable relay coming on. That relay is located by itself high on the bracket where the 48-pin connector with red bolt is located.

    Another item that that could be blocking a start is the transaxle position (Park-Neutral) switch. While holding the ignition switch in start, move the gearshift back and forth without trying to put it in gear. Also try the same thing while trying to start it in Neutral. Beware in case it tries to start in gear. Something could have gotten out of adjustment with all the steering column work.

    Does the battery charger show how much current it is putting out?
    Does it shut off automatically when it thinks battery is fully charged?
    How much current is charger rated for?
    Does any battery cell feel warmer than the others while charging?
    Does battery make bubbling noise while charging?
    Can you substitute another known good battery for testing?
    Use your voltmeter to measure voltage on battery terminals at end of charge cycle while charger is still running. Also measure battery voltage just after charging with nothing connected to it. Then measure again after it sits for say 4-6 hours. Then measure with it in the car, cables attached, with nothing turned on. Measure again with high beams turned on.

    Your meter can measure current up to 10 amps. We will need to put some sort of current limiting device in the + line and measure first to make sure current level is not over 10 A.
    Last edited by TODD; 09-22-2017 at 03:48 AM.
    What has been, can be again. (Bob Wills, 1942)

  6. #26
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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by 95ParkAve View Post
    Besides the other page i shared about it here,
    https://www.teambuick.com/forums/sho...263#post105263

    I just found this (PDF alert) that states the procedure for passlock 2, which we definitely have, is nearly the same, but 11 min each time.
    https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...iqZVydNhxKr4Bw
    Passlock 2 and PASS-Key II are not the same thing.

    This is the problem with using 3rd or 4th hand information where someone has tried to combine data covering several generations of systems. The procedures along with names of the systems and components get all mixed up leaving the readers confused. Much of this info goes directly against the first hand GM info in the shop manual for the car.

    Anyway the odds of finding the solution by following anecdotes from others is low; the electrical system is far too complicated for that approach.
    What has been, can be again. (Bob Wills, 1942)

  7. #27
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    Sep 1999
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    Dbl Oak,TX
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    Quote Originally Posted by 95ParkAve View Post
    I reinstalled the ignition switch and high beam button again using the info from the service manual. I took it off in the lock cylinder in the lock position and it appeared to already have been installed correctly. I

    I followed the instructions anyway and moved it all the way to the right using a small screwdriver, then one step back. It looked to be in the same position i started in.

    However when I got it all back together and turned the ignition, it did seem to have more travel towards the start direction. Got me a little excited.

    But then I discovered that the battery had been drained again, this time with the negative cable detached!

    What can drain a battery with only the positive side hooked up? Wow
    Battery cannot supply current to anything if only one lead is hooked up. Battery can run itself down with one bad cell, so that the other five good cells cannot produce any current.

    Realizing that it passed a test, how was the test done? Were there any readings recorded on a test sheet?
    What has been, can be again. (Bob Wills, 1942)

  8. #28
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    Dbl Oak,TX
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    Quote Originally Posted by 95ParkAve View Post
    Holy **** this piece of junk is infuriating. After letting it charge for a few hours I went to start it and the f'ing security light is back on. It started blinking when I opened the gawddamn door.

    This is just insane.
    One thing that may help until all the bugs are worked out:

    Remove the bypass key with the resistor pellet from the old lock unless attempting to start the car. Once the system examines the resistor and okays the value, it continues to monitor the resistance looking for problems. There is no telling what the PASS-Key II module does during all the periods of weak battery voltage, battery removal, and re-installation etc.
    What has been, can be again. (Bob Wills, 1942)

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by TODD View Post

    Does the battery charger show how much current it is putting out?
    Does it shut off automatically when it thinks battery is fully charged?
    How much current is charger rated for?
    Does any battery cell feel warmer than the others while charging?
    Does battery make bubbling noise while charging?
    Can you substitute another known good battery for testing?
    Use your voltmeter to measure voltage on battery terminals at end of charge cycle while charger is still running. Also measure battery voltage just after charging with nothing connected to it. Then measure again after it sits for say 4-6 hours. Then measure with it in the car, cables attached, with nothing turned on. Measure again with high beams turned on.
    Thanks for all the ideas. I just took the battery back to the mechanics who put a new battery in this car in Feb of this year. They just said they tested it and it holds a charge so they wouldnt replace it. I doubt they used any actual testing equipment on it.

    Here's the charger I inherited with this car. It's pretty old by the looks of it. But it works. Just a simple trickle charger. I usually use the 6amp, 12v setting. I use 2amps overnight. ( Pic uploading keeps failing today, even using desktop version on my phone.It worked before dang it.)

    The charger shows how many amps are being drawn, I think.
    No it doesn't shut off. I have to remember to turn it off.
    Current.. 6amp 12v?
    No none of the cells feel hot while charging. Been checked and full of water too.
    No bubbling sound while charging.
    I could maybe pull the battery out of the jeep. But the way this car seems to be draining the battery I don't really want to risk another battery if I don't absolutely have to.

    I'll perform the checks you suggest over the next few days while I'm waiting for the bypass module to arrive. Thanks

  10. #30
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    12.54v when disconnected
    12.54v the next day
    13.68v while charging
    13.65v when disconnected after leaving charget on for a couple hours too long.
    13.15v after sitting disconnected approx 36hrs
    12.96v connected, car off
    12.06v high beams on plus interior lights
    12.55v attached, car off
    12.75v detached

    Battery never felt warm or bubbled, even overcharging it.

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