I hope you can do pictures. That will be helpful. Mine acts up once in awhile.
Ben
I used part of the old lock cylinder ( the part thay reads the key resistor ) to solder on a bypass that I can insert an old key into to disable/Bypass the passkey thing.
Nobody will ever think of stealing this old thing. It's ugly. And we don't have a big problem with that here.
I was going to add a pic here but it looks like I'm not allowed to do that yet. Are there any mods who can turn that on so you guys can see what I'm talking about?
I hope you can do pictures. That will be helpful. Mine acts up once in awhile.
Ben
Thanks. My post got approved at least. But I'm still not seeing any controls to add pics or even change fonts. There's no advanced button. Just a simple text box. Maybe if I post a few more times I'll get out of this newbie jail.
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Finally requested the desktop version of the page and the buttons showed up. They need some help with their mobile version code. It's likely just a configuration issue.
Last edited by 95ParkAve; 09-05-2017 at 09:20 PM.
This is weird. But I don't completely understand electronics yet. I just tested the ends of my bypass that go into that block of wires connected to the ignition switch. They're the original two white wires in an orange wrap that was part of the old key cylinder. I didn't even take them out. I just soldered the wires from the two old pieces together. The contacts are clean and firmly contacting the resistor in the key.
Here's the weird part. The key reads the correct resistance for this car. But less than a foot down the wires the resistance reads 22 ohms less!
Anyone know what could cause that? It's just the original wires running to the original contacts touching the original key. I'm not very good at soldering yet. Could that have something to do with it?
Thanks
The only thing I can find online that could lower resistance is another resistor in parallel somewhere in the circuit.
So I wanted to disconnect the passkey wires and test my bypass separately. However I discovered from the new ignition lock wires, the clips can only be released from the back.
But then there's this magic puzzle wiring harness preventing that
20170907_134537.jpg
I've unbolted it in the center. I've poked nd prodded and jiggled and pushed then poked then pulled and nothing but frustration.
Can anyone tell me what this **** thing is called exactly? I can't find anything online about it other than the engineers who designed them ought to have been shot. I think I agree.
When you test the resistance of the key when it is plugged in you will also be testing the input resistance of the PASS-Key II decoder module. As noted this is a resistance in parallel with the pellet on the key. The measured resistance will be less than the key by itself. Conversely any faults in the contacts, wiring, terminals, or soldering would make the resistance reading go up.
To test it while plugged in, follow the shop manual procedure. Disconnect the key resistor circuit at the input to the decoder module and measure back into the harness. Resistance should be the same within 10 ohms compared to the key by itself. See excerpts from the manual attached.
The resistance of the key pellet is one of 15 values between 402 and 11800 ohms. If the decoder module sees the resistance varying much from the correct value it has learned, the security light will start flashing or starts may even be blocked.
If the soldering is in doubt, make the connections with insulated crimped butt splices. Odd resistance readings can come from the meter itself if jacks are worn, probe tips are dirty, battery is weak/corroded. Frequent checks for 0 ohms with the probes touching together insures accurate test values.
The picture is of C202, the 48-cavity Metri-Pack steering column inline connector. Not sure it needs to be taken apart at this point.
Your work is getting involved to the to the point you need the official GM Service Manual for the 1995 C and H platform cars. It is a 2-volume set. Even a greasy well-worn copy obtained from eBay will be worth its weight in gold.
Last edited by TODD; 09-07-2017 at 04:01 PM.
What has been, can be again. (Bob Wills, 1942)
Wow, thank you Todd. I was beginning to think nobody online wanted to talk about this car.
I've already searched everywhere, even ebay, for the shop manual for this car and couldn't find one. Maybe now that I know what it's actually called i can find one.
I'm so relieved to hear I don't need to get that connector apart. So I'm looking for the decoder module eh? A clue! Awesome.
I'm so close to done it would be hard to wait for the manual now. I mean, it should be fixed already if it was a normal car. Now there's just this bypass to get right and it should drive again.
Thanks again Todd. One of your thumbnails lists the decoder module location. Behind top RH side of I/P.
I'm guessing that means top right hand side? But what's I/P? There's and I/P fuseblock listed. Do they mean that fuseblock below the connector i was asking about?
Omg, I hope that doesn't mean instrument panel. If so, how is taking all that apart easier than getting this connector apart? Is the connector that bad?
Apologies for the brain fart. I found the page that shows it. You probably already provided everything I'll need if I just calm down and study it. Thanks again Todd, you rock
Last edited by 95ParkAve; 09-08-2017 at 09:26 AM.
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