Do you still have the original radiator?
Ben
Here is a pic with the new fan and shroud
Do you still have the original radiator?
Ben
Ben,
Yest I do. do you think it would be better then the Aluminum?
Rich
Rich, may not be any better, but the aluminum one MAY not have the capacity of the original. If was me, I would take the original one to a radiator shop and tell them you want it rodded out. They remove the tanks and run a rod through each tube. Then re attach the tanks. I have never had this fail to take care of the problem . Worst case, you will have a radiator to sell.
Ben
Ben,
Hmm, always open to try it, I have a couple of good radiator shops by me, will call them and try it out.
More flow I believe would do, it's so close to maintaining a good temp, it doesn't rise quickly, so I am guessing just a bit more flow will do the trick. Any thoughts on pulling the thermostat completely?
Rich
Just got off the phone with Grove Radiator close to where I live, he suggested I come in on Monday, will see what he says, will bring the old radiator with me too, in case.
Will keep you posted!
Good you found a shop
I would install the proper thermostat. As you know, a properly operating thermostat , when open, does not restrict the flow. And it has nothing to do with the high temp. It only regulates the minimum temp
Ben
Buick made some upgrades to these cars when ordered with A/C or police car heavy duty cooling. The fan pulley was changed from 6-3/4" dia to 5". This swap increased the speed of the pump and fan by 35%. A 7-blade fan was used along with a fan clutch. A different water pump having a shorter nose was used to increase depth dimension for the clutch.
Some guys on the Net have indicated a later water pump from a Buick 300 has better flow due to curved impeller blades. It bolts up to the 215, but how it will fit in the 63 Skylark is not known.
A fan shroud was supplied on V6 Specials, probably to compensate for increased fan setback on the shorter block.
Just some more ideas that may be useful. Good luck on getting it to cool down.
What has been, can be again. (Bob Wills, 1942)
So visited Grove Radiator in Neptune NJ, great shop, great guys. Outside temp was in the low 80's and humidity was hovering in the 60%. So a good warm humid day for drive there and a a little measuring.
Driving there - highway stays well under 180 around 170. Stop and go at lights, no issue 180.
Got there and his first observation was the 6 blade fan was not kicking back much air. We let it run at idle for a good 15 - 20 minutes and it eventually creeped to 205, which isn't terrible. He recommended trying the original 4 blade fan and at last resort Flexilite makes a 7 blade 16" flex fan that would pull more air at an idle. He felt it was more of an air flow at idle as the issue. But we are close to getting it to idle an keep under 200.
Bob,
I do like the smaller pulley idea that you mentioned, makes good sense for increased flow and a bit more air movement on the fan, any ideas on what application of vehicles I might search for one that would fit?
"The fan pulley was changed from 6-3/4" dia to 5""
Best,
Rich
A 61-63 V8 Special or Skylark with A/C or HD cooling would have all the needed parts.
As I understand it, the 5" A/C pulley should have a shallower "dish" to it than the non A/C pulley. That is because the hub on the A/C water pump is positioned closer to the pump body to create extra depth needed for the fan clutch.
To keep the fan belt positioned correctly front-to-back, the hub on the non-A/C pump will have to be moved back. Or else the pump will have to be replaced.
To to hunt up individual A/C car pieces the Buick part numbers are:
water pump- 1388513
pulley- 1348229
clutch- 1359027
fan belt- 1357077
Attached is an exploded parts view to double check that all the baffles, plates, and seals etc are present underhood.
FYI- the temp switch controlling dash light actuates at 248F.
What has been, can be again. (Bob Wills, 1942)
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