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Thread: 69 Wildcat 4 way power seat

  1. #11
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    For that test to work, the 3-way connector has to be in position on the relay. The manual is not clear on this. Pin 2 will then be energized from the circuit breaker. As you note the relay contacts on pin 1 and 2 are electrically isolated.
    What has been, can be again. (Bob Wills, 1942)

  2. #12
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    Wildcat seat problem

    Thanks. The manuals are usually overly-clear so I was a bit hesitant to declare it wrong. The jump was clearly required. I picked up some spade lugs today and next will try the motor. Because of the difficult in reaching the wires I want to make sure the 12V is well connected and not flopping around under the seat!

  3. #13
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    Wildcat seat problem

    Hi Todd: Holidayweekend in Victoria Canada so got a chance to work on the Buick.

    All references to Fisher Body 1969 service manual.


    16-40e Wire between control switch and motor relay. I couldnot get any voltage between field and ground when operating switch.
    16-40f Relay Assembly check out perfect after I revised thetechnique
    16-40g Motor Assembly. Circuit was closed but motor did not operate on either field. I onlyvery briefly connected the motor as it appeared to be a short, which would beexpected if he motor was jammed and could not rotate. Any comment on this?

    Looking at diagram on 16-39 do you know where the “six-wayseat switch terminal block” is located? IF line 14 had a fault in the terminalblock it is possible the relay is not activated through the field. This wouldalso stop the transmission solenoids from working as I have observed. The #14 wire originates at the breaker.This has power and I can trace it easily up from the floor pan into the harnessand ending in the 3 pin plug on the relay. I can’t trace it to the switch.

    I have not removed the chrome seat trim over the 6-wayswitch as I am not sure it would show anything. Do you have any idea how the wire is routed to and from the switch, probablyinside the seat frame.

    Is it possible to relatively easily remove the bottom benchseat cushion so I can get to more of the parts?

    Thanks for the help. Jack

  4. #14
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    Jack,
    Comments are as follows:
    16-40e-- indicates there is no +12V power feeding to the switch on wire 14.

    16-40f-- good.

    16-40g-- not sure what is going on here. Test voltage is being applied to armature and one field simultaneously?

    Motor should turn freely even if seat mechanism is run all the way to the end of travel since solenoids are not being energized. Can you turn the motor by hand in both directions at the rubber coupling going to the transmission?

    Check resistance of each motor field wire to ground. Would guess it should be something like 50 to 100 ohms. Resistance of the fields should be the same.

    16-39 fig. 16-36-- the terminal block is the push-on connector on the back of the switch. After removal the connector can be backprobed to check for voltage on wire 14. Loss of voltage to this point would account for the dead motor, relay and solenoids.

    See the attached pictures of a similar switch having 3 wires for a power top. The white connector on that one is starting to deform due to old age (it's from a '60 Pontiac). You can do the jumper test at the connector using #12 gauge wire to confirm switch condition once power is established.

    I don't know where the +12V feed splits off to go to the switch. It splits somewhere after the pull apart feed harness connector coming up out of the carpet. See page 16-38, fig 16-35.

    Usually the switch is bolted to the side of the seat cushion frame by the 2 Phillips head screws. Switch can be removed from the frame and pulled out on a length of harness wiring for service. It comes apart something like pulling a 120V duplex outlet out of the wall. See item 5 in fig 16-35.

    On yours the switch bolts to the chrome trim piece. If you can figure out how to remove the trim from the seat frame, the switch should be accessible. The problem may be visible once the switch is out in the open.

    Chapter 15 indicates the entire seat w/mechanism has to be removed from the car to do much in the way of parts replacement. Looks like the bolts attaching the bottom cushion aren't accessible while the seat is in the car.
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    What has been, can be again. (Bob Wills, 1942)

  5. #15
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    Wildcat seat FIXED!!

    The seat is fixed and as good as new. Thanks for all your help Todd, without your advice and especially encouragement I don't think I would have been successful. As we had both had begun to expect it was the 12V power to the seat switch. The connector stud in the switch is press fitted to a copper buss and had popped out. I was able to dismantle the switch (try that on a 2017 model !) and solder the stud back in place. Reassembled and it works fine. The only real difficulty was a catch 22 getting the seat trim off. You need to more the seat back and up to expose the screw. Since the seat didn't move getting the screw out was tricky. Of course if I could move the seat I wouldn't need to take the screw out!

    Now we need to attack the oil pressure light. Should I start a new thread for this or just continue with this one.

    Jack

  6. #16
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    That's excellent news!

    Why not start a new thread with a new title for the oil pressure switch. Then it will be easier to search in case someone is having trouble with theirs.
    What has been, can be again. (Bob Wills, 1942)

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