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Thread: Re-motoring a lakes bucket style street rod project called Cassi.

  1. #1
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    Re-motoring a lakes bucket style street rod project called Cassi.

    Howdy,

    As noted in my intro, I'm replacing a slant six in an unfinished street rod project I built (that returned to me recently) with a '48 248 straight eight.
    Here're a couple pictures, and I'll keep the project updated as I do the rebuild.


    55.JPG 56.JPG

    This'll be an unhurried (re)project, and I'll certainly be needing my hand held a bit as I learn the Buick.
    I'm presently starting to chase down the missing parts for the mill,
    (please see needed parts post here https://www.teambuick.com/forums/sho...rence-question)
    and thrashing out the mods it'll need for my chassis (a titled Deuce) and to mate it to a pb904 from a slant six. I'll be going with a set of four SUs for carbs, and a mild street build for the guts. Hoping to have'er back on the street later this year, or early next.
    Last edited by Old6rodder; 01-27-2017 at 12:05 AM.

  2. #2

    Cassi

    Old6, you got my attention. I cannot answer all your questions, some one will. I believe any year distributor from a 248/263 will work. The water pump changed in 1950, so will need to be earlier. Too bad you are so far away, as I will be selling a 1950 248 later in the year. It has been replaced with a warmed up 263.

    Good luck, and please keep us in the picture.

    Ben

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    Started on the 904pb's torque converter adaption. Turned an "adapter kit" for the job.
    Took pictures with only two holes drilled & tapped, but all six're done now.

    DSC00009.JPGDSC00011.JPGDSC00008.JPGDSC00005.JPG

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    Cool Back at it.

    With my manic level of Rose Parade work this time around finally over I got back to work on Cassi yesterday. I finished off the 904pb bell housing adapter, and assembled the engine/trans unit. Then started the job of tucking'er into the chassis.

    First stab brought'er to 10.5" forward of target position, and 4" short of tucking behind the front cross member. Next up are cutting the floors & tunnel mouth to fit the 904's pan flanges, re-engineering the trans mount cross member to fit the new position, and cobbling up the bell & front engine mounts I've decided to go with. Then a bit of rework on the floor & tunnel mouth sheet metal, which'll finish the basic installation portion of the project.

    Here're a couple pics of the process at the moment. I'll take some of the components at a later date, when I disassemble prior to final running assembly.

    It appears I've forgotten to post that I'm installing this mill as a "slant eight", 28* off vertical, similar to the 30* of the slant six it's replacing.


    5.jpg 3.jpg

  5. #5
    Thought we had lost you! Slant eight. Different

    Ben

  6. #6
    Why so far forward in the chassis?? Would think that wouldn't be so good for handling. On the 320 installed in a stock car we made a "slant 8" in the mid 60's but to the left to put MORE weight on the left front. Not tilted as far as yours but made a BIG diff. in the handling dept. for our use.
    Tom Telesco
    Classic and Muscle Automotive
    12 Cook St.
    Norwalk, CT 06853-1601
    Day Phone 203-324-6045 ET
    NailHead Mini-Starters '53-'66
    Adjustable Roller Tip Rocker Arms - All NailHeads
    Custom forged pistons
    Front & rear neoprene seals
    Many other "Nail" parts
    "If I can't get it, you don't need it!"

  7. #7
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    Second stab.

    Not lost, merely swamped with '17's float work. I got drawn in to helping out on three floats with various engineering problems, and having to do the whole job on three others. Tends to really suck up the calendar.

    That was only the first stab, I use it to note & mark what cutting'll be needed to continue the installation. As noted, its target was back another 10.5".

    Second stab has put'er in place, and I've cobbled up some very temporary "mounts" (a 1/4" pencil steel cradle under the front pulley, a chunk of 2x4 propping up the dist side, and just resting the tailshaft on the cross member for now ) to hold'er there whilst I work out the real ones. Wound up with a bit more of a hole in the floor than I'd planned, but'll use the rework to grab a tad more room for the go pedal.

    Here're some more pics ........


    DSC00008 (1).jpg DSC00006 (1).jpg
    DSC00003 (1).jpg DSC00010 (1).jpg DSC00012 (1).jpg

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    Engine mounts under way.

    Have the outer plates of the forward two mounts in, along with the biscuit holders on the frame rails.
    Also have the complete firewall/bell mount, but no pics of that today.
    Still need to do the "web" plates of the fronts, but that'll have to wait for the 904's tail housing mount to be done, as I'll need to pull the mill/trans package to get the angles for the welder.

    Here's a pic of the fronts so far, I'll take one of the firewall mount tomorrow ........

    Front mounts.JPG

  9. #9

    Pan question

    I know you have probably worked it out, but would be interested to know the answer. What are your plans for the oil pump? It has a float that allows for sucking the oil from the top of the oil. I can't wrap my head around that with the slant.

    Probably no big deal, but I believe that is an earlier engine than a '48 as you said in the first post. Buick changed from the front motor mount to a side mount in 1948. The 4-bolt pad is not there on your engine.

    Ben

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    Engine mounts done.

    Found time to work on'er again today, and got the engine mounts in. Not prettified yet, but doing their job properly.

    Going to make part of the new tunnel removable this time around in order to access the front U-joint and rear trans mounts without having to go under in the future. That part of rodding tends to get boring after 70.

    I'll re-angle the bottom of the pan to match the "lean", and adapt a slant six style pick-up to the Buick pump. I'll be giving up the floating feature, but see no problems in that department as the /6 style works very nicely on that engine.

    The guy who gave'er to me claimed it's a 48, I don't know enough yet to verify. I believe the change over was mid year, so could be last of the old run? I've been trying to find out if all the front mount 248s were Babbitt, or if and when they switched to inserts, and if so whether it was at the same time. Unfortunately, my computer research skills lag considerably behind my rodding ones. I believe I've at least ascertained that the Babbitt & insert cranks are different, with the Babbitt being staged diameters, and the insert being like diameters on the mains. Also that the Babbitt crank will take inserts. Are these correct?

    If, when I pop the rod caps, it's a Babbitt engine I'll have to make a decision, as I now have a 263 as well. Were the 263s all insert? I can pour Babbitt, having cut my teeth on 216 Chevies, but would likely go with inserts if I can. After all, this's to be a road car, and serviceable.


    Anyway, here're some more pics ........

    DSC00015.JPG DSC00002.JPG DSC00003.JPG

    DSC00011.JPG DSC00012.JPG

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