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Thread: buick 455 into a 67 gs special with a th400

  1. #11
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    Aug 2015
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    Oakland Ga
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    Hmnn, my first goal would be a running engine. That looks like a mess.
    Larry

    1970 GS455 Stage1 Race weight 4025 lbs.
    TSP 470, 602 HP, 589 TQ
    MT headers, Gear Vendors Overdrive
    Best E.T. 11.54 Best MPH, 116.06
    1998 Riviera SC3800

  2. #12
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    nancy, ky
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    PS pump

    Did you have any trouble getting the power steering pump to fit into the 67 A body when you did this engine swap?

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by LARRY70GS View Post
    No, take another look. There are two hose nipples coming off the timing cover. The one nearest the distributor is the bypass hose that goes to the thermostat housing. The other one is for the 3/4" heater hose to the core. The other heater hose comes off the intake manifold, and that was 5/8". Depending on whether the engine has A/C or not, if it uses a heater control valve, that valve goes inline between the intake and heater core. Some year engines, the 5/8" heater hose came off the rear of the intake, others, the front. In any case, you can't mess up because the hose nipples are two different sizes on the engine side as well as the core side.
    Thanks for that I got the correct hoses. Despite my lack of posting I have continued my efforts. Pictures are of where I now. I have no power to the starter. But the dash lights gen and oil are working properly. As you can see from the photo I wired the coil to the acc inside. This is because the red wire that goes on the coil hasn't enough power. Please offer suggestions on getting power to the starter.

    Sent from my LG-H871 using Tapatalk

  4. #14
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    The starter gets it's power directly from the + battery cable. When you twist the key, the solenoid connection (S) gets 12 volts to crank the starter motor. The wire supplying the + side of the coil has a resistance inline that cuts down on the voltage to maximize points life. The resistance terminal (R) supplies 12 volts directly to the + side of the coil to bypass the resistance wire ONLY during cranking for faster starts.

    This is how the stock points system works. Extending from the firewall engine harness connector(below the brake booster), is a calibrated length of special resistance wire. This wire does not extend all the way to the positive side of the coil. In the harness, it is joined by a wire leading from the "R" terminal of the starter solenoid, and from there, it extends to the positive side of the coil. There is a shorting switch inside the starter solenoid. When the starter motor is cranking the engine to start, the shorting switch inside the solenoid, sends battery voltage through the yellow wire to the coil positive, effectively bypassing the resistance wire. Once the engine starts, and the key is released to the run position, the yellow wire ceases to supply voltage, and voltage flows from the firewall via the resistance wire. This drops the running voltage so that point life is maximized.

    To test the system for proper functioning requires a volt meter. Connect the voltmeter between the positive side of the coil and ground. Turn the ignition switch to the run position. The reading should be 5.0-5.5 volts. It is important that the ignition points be closed for this test. If the points are open, the voltmeter reading will be full battery voltage. Bump the engine over until the points are closed, and check again. Again, 5.0-5.5 volts is the normal reading with the engine stopped, ignition key in the run position, and the voltmeter connected between the positive side of the coil and ground. The second part of the functionality test requires that you pull the coil wire out of the distributor, and ground it so the engine will not start. With voltmeter connected as before, crank the engine continuously, and observe the voltmeter. The reading should jump from the previous 5-5.5 volt reading up to 9 volts minimum. If it does not, it indicates a problem with the shorting switch inside the starter solenoid, or a wiring problem between the "R" terminal of the solenoid, and the coil. This will result in hard starting when cold.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Larry

    1970 GS455 Stage1 Race weight 4025 lbs.
    TSP 470, 602 HP, 589 TQ
    MT headers, Gear Vendors Overdrive
    Best E.T. 11.54 Best MPH, 116.06
    1998 Riviera SC3800

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by LARRY70GS View Post
    The starter gets it's power directly from the + battery cable. When you twist the key, the solenoid connection (S) gets 12 volts to crank the starter motor. The wire supplying the + side of the coil has a resistance inline that cuts down on the voltage to maximize points life. The resistance terminal (R) supplies 12 volts directly to the + side of the coil to bypass the resistance wire ONLY during cranking for faster starts.

    This is how the stock points system works. Extending from the firewall engine harness connector(below the brake booster), is a calibrated length of special resistance wire. This wire does not extend all the way to the positive side of the coil. In the harness, it is joined by a wire leading from the "R" terminal of the starter solenoid, and from there, it extends to the positive side of the coil. There is a shorting switch inside the starter solenoid. When the starter motor is cranking the engine to start, the shorting switch inside the solenoid, sends battery voltage through the yellow wire to the coil positive, effectively bypassing the resistance wire. Once the engine starts, and the key is released to the run position, the yellow wire ceases to supply voltage, and voltage flows from the firewall via the resistance wire. This drops the running voltage so that point life is maximized.

    To test the system for proper functioning requires a volt meter. Connect the voltmeter between the positive side of the coil and ground. Turn the ignition switch to the run position. The reading should be 5.0-5.5 volts. It is important that the ignition points be closed for this test. If the points are open, the voltmeter reading will be full battery voltage. Bump the engine over until the points are closed, and check again. Again, 5.0-5.5 volts is the normal reading with the engine stopped, ignition key in the run position, and the voltmeter connected between the positive side of the coil and ground. The second part of the functionality test requires that you pull the coil wire out of the distributor, and ground it so the engine will not start. With voltmeter connected as before, crank the engine continuously, and observe the voltmeter. The reading should jump from the previous 5-5.5 volt reading up to 9 volts minimum. If it does not, it indicates a problem with the shorting switch inside the starter solenoid, or a wiring problem between the "R" terminal of the solenoid, and the coil. This will result in hard starting when cold.
    Your picture helped immensely. I'm attempting the first of the two test with an innova voltage tester with the dial turned to 200m. The reading only goes down from 4.6. Said a different way after connecting the negative and the positive leads to the coil the display quickly goes from 4.6 to negative 00.0 with the key in the on position and the wires from the firewall connected in what I assume is the correct way. A photo of my progress is attached.

    It is my belief that the yellow wire is the same yellow wire that needs to be connected to the R side of the starter. And the yellow wire breaking of near the alternator is for the windshield wiper motor as I hear it going when I put power to it.

    How do I get sufficient power?

    Sent from my LG-H871 using Tapatalk

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