"adjusting" and "bleeding" are two different things. disc brakes don't require adjustment, at worst you'll just need to pump them after the lines are bled.
with drums, you'll actually need to set shoe position inside the drum. too little clearance and the shoe will drag constantly ( for a while ), too much and you'll have little or no brake.
once the shoe position is set, newer cars ( 70s ) have an automatic adjustment system which can be actuated by driving the car backwards and stepping on the brakes. do this a few times every couple of thousand miles in order to reset the shoe as brake material gets abraided away and the shoe gets thinner.
i'm not for sure if a 1963 is going to have this automatic re-tension system though.
as to bleeding, i was always taught to bleed the shortest line first and work to the longest. practically, this means LF, RF, LR, RR. watch your reservoir the first time around bleeding, you don't want to run the master dry and suck air into the line, you'll have to start over from scratch.
i would bleed before adjusting.
we don't have a 63 chassis manual but we do have 60 and 66.
https://www.teambuick.com/reference/...ssis/index.php
https://www.teambuick.com/reference/...ssis/index.php
drum brake procedures are pretty consistent across all model lines so, apart from the auto tensioning i was talking about, will be applicable to you.
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