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Thread: Replacing Wheel Lugs

  1. #1
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    Replacing Wheel Lugs

    Any suggestions, tips, lessons learned or helpful hints on replacing wheel lugs/studs..?

    Got a '65 Cat, finally got the rear drum off after some MAJOR effort with a pry bar to do some needed brake work, only to realize the wheel studs are not "plum" anymore and have bent themselves slightly but noticeably inward toward the center of the wheel hub, but just enough the keep the drum from coming on and off without some major effort.

    After replacing all the brake hardware (springs, cylinder, shoes), I couldn't get the drum to go back on the wheel and after a closer look, noticed shavings from the stud threads on the brake drum, and uneven holes. Took a closer look at the threads and sure enough, there's wear on the stud threads from scraping against the brake drum stud holes.

    They're the original studs and will probably require some serious effort to get them out. A friend suggested I hit/knock them out with a 5 lb hammer and replace them because they're more than likely "stressed" and probably need to be replaced.

    Any suggestions, techniques, or lessons learned for a newbie..?

  2. #2
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    Replacing Wheel Lugs

    Wound up taking a 5 lb hammer, knocking ea one with 2-3 hits... they came right out. Took each new wheel stud, applied a small amount of anti-seize just under the flared end, and with a breaker bar, correct socket along w/the correct open ended Steel nut, and a loose fitting steel washer, used some old fashioned elbow grease to pull ea one, little by little with each turn of the breaker bar, until they were properly and fully seated... VIOLA!!

    Drum and wheel went back on with absolutely NO problem.

    Last edited by martinsonjd; 11-03-2016 at 07:50 AM.

  3. #3
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    Remove the axles, press the old studs out and press new ones in. Perfect time to inspect the axle bearings and replace the axle seals.

  4. #4
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    New Wheel Stud (pretty and STRAIGHT) - Old Wheel Stud (grimey and BENT)

    All done and back on the road!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. #5
    your method is pretty much how everybody does it.

    except most people use an air gun to draw the stud into the drum. because we're lazy.

    another trick is to get a nut that's flat on one side. thread the flat side on, facing the drum, and then when you're pulling the stud through the drum you have a lot more surface area on the drum face AND you're not messing up the tapered shoulder on a perfectly good wheel nut.

    one final trick, ONLY because your replacement lugs are a bit longer than OEM:
    1 - BEFORE you mount the studs in the drum
    2 - thread a nut or die all the way onto every stud
    3 - go over to a grinding wheel and grind off the first 1/4" to 1/2" of threads on all the studs
    4 - spin the die / nut off of the stud, which cleans up the threads you just messed up with the grinding wheel
    5 - mount the studs as normal

    what this does is make it MUCH simpler to start your nuts on the lugs, as the nut gets centered on the unthreaded portion of lug making it almost impossible to cross thread. this is the same thing the NASCAR boys are doing on their <13 second, 4 wheel pit stops.


    obviously, for a street car which isn't going to see many tire changes, this is not much of a concern. if you're drag racing, this would be handy.
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by bob k. mando View Post
    your method is pretty much how everybody does it.

    except most people use an air gun to draw the stud into the drum. because we're lazy.

    another trick is to get a nut that's flat on one side. thread the flat side on, facing the drum, and then when you're pulling the stud through the drum you have a lot more surface area on the drum face AND you're not messing up the tapered shoulder on a perfectly good wheel nut.

    one final trick, ONLY because your replacement lugs are a bit longer than OEM:
    1 - BEFORE you mount the studs in the drum
    2 - thread a nut or die all the way onto every stud
    3 - go over to a grinding wheel and grind off the first 1/4" to 1/2" of threads on all the studs
    4 - spin the die / nut off of the stud, which cleans up the threads you just messed up with the grinding wheel
    5 - mount the studs as normal

    what this does is make it MUCH simpler to start your nuts on the lugs, as the nut gets centered on the unthreaded portion of lug making it almost impossible to cross thread. this is the same thing the NASCAR boys are doing on their <13 second, 4 wheel pit stops.


    obviously, for a street car which isn't going to see many tire changes, this is not much of a concern. if you're drag racing, this would be handy.
    Thanks!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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