your method is pretty much how everybody does it.
except most people use an air gun to draw the stud into the drum. because we're lazy.
another trick is to get a nut that's flat on one side. thread the flat side on, facing the drum, and then when you're pulling the stud through the drum you have a lot more surface area on the drum face AND you're not messing up the tapered shoulder on a perfectly good wheel nut.
one final trick, ONLY because your replacement lugs are a bit longer than OEM:
1 - BEFORE you mount the studs in the drum
2 - thread a nut or die all the way onto every stud
3 - go over to a grinding wheel and grind off the first 1/4" to 1/2" of threads on all the studs
4 - spin the die / nut off of the stud, which cleans up the threads you just messed up with the grinding wheel
5 - mount the studs as normal
what this does is make it MUCH simpler to start your nuts on the lugs, as the nut gets centered on the unthreaded portion of lug making it almost impossible to cross thread. this is the same thing the NASCAR boys are doing on their <13 second, 4 wheel pit stops.
obviously, for a street car which isn't going to see many tire changes, this is not much of a concern. if you're drag racing, this would be handy.
The way to crush the bourgeoisie is to grind them between the millstones of taxation and inflation.
Vladimir Lenin
Government schooling is about "the perfect organization of the hive."
H.H. Goddard, Human Efficiency (1920)
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