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Thread: 52 head in a 53

  1. #21

    '53 head on a '52

    Way to go, Frank.
    Have you progressed much? Have you determined the heads will interchange? I am building a performance 263, and the head has a crack through #1 exhaust seat. It is a '51 engine, and I have found a '53 head. One of us will know soon if they interchange.

    Ben

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    17
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    Hi Ben,
    I haven't done much since pulling the engine...a few home improvement projects have taken priority. I hope to start tearing it down soon, but I'm still looking for a machine shop to do the machine work. Keep me posted on your progress, and how you make out with the head.

  3. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by frank-k View Post
    Hi Ben,
    I haven't done much since pulling the engine...a few home improvement projects have taken priority. I hope to start tearing it down soon, but I'm still looking for a machine shop to do the machine work. Keep me posted on your progress, and how you make out with the head.
    A suggestion: You likely won't find a machine shop that has done a Buick I-8 recently, if at all. Any shop that handles larger I-6's will have a boring bar that can do the job. Old guys in the shop are a good sign.
    When I looked for a local machine shop, my problem was all of them wanted to clean the block with a dip that would ruin the cam bearings. I didn't want to change them, because the manual provides: "The camshaft bearings must be line reamed to size after being pressed into the crankcase. Since this operation requires special reaming equipment the original bearings should be retained unless severely damaged." Use an acid dip and the cam bearings will be "severely damaged." Well, no one had any of the "special reaming equipment, and I had good oil pressure going into the rebuild.
    I talked one guy into cleaning the block with water and strong soap, kept my cam bearings, and the result worked out just fine. The machinist had never done a 263 (or any other I-8) in his life, but he had done a lot of Chevy and GMC I-6's, and lots of small to medium diesels.
    Just saying.
    Good luck with it.
    '51 Special

  4. #24

    '52 versus '53 head

    Thanks for the reply, guys. I settled for a '51 head. The '53 I had located had been worked on, brought to spec, and priced accordingly. Too much to through away with the mods I am doing. The only difference I could see is the spark plugs protrude a little into the combustion chamber on the '53.

    I am in Wichita Falls TX and have been fortunate enough to find two machine shops that can do the work. The block is done. Bored to 85 mm. About 125 over, I think. Pistons are here. Head is in shop, receiving oversize valves and a little clean up in the ports. Rotating assembly is in same shop awaiting balancing. Cam is, I hope, being ground this week.

    Looking forward to the assembly. I am ONLY about a month behind and SLIGHTLY over budget.

    Ben

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    327
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    Modern cam bearings are finished. No need to line bore them. Modern technology.
    Doug

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    149
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buick Guy View Post
    Modern cam bearings are finished. No need to line bore them. Modern technology.
    Doug
    Where do you find those modern bearings for straight eights and nailheads? Every one that I have done required reaming to fit. Maybe you meant modern bearings in modern engines??

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Central Il
    Posts
    465
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    rebuilt my 263 last year. installed new cam bearings. they did have to be line bored. very tight. even after I did not like how much drag the cam had. I should have had machine shop take a little more off. figured hell, it'll break in. find any diesel shop to install/ line bore your cam bearings. Buick Guy is right though, you should not need to.
    52 Special.
    Tin Militia CC

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    327
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    We have used several brands, but this is one. https://www.kanter.com/productdetail...Cat=32&Prc=351 Doug

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Central Il
    Posts
    465
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    0
    I got cam bearings from EGGE. $50. mains from EGGE $127, piston rings from EGGE. rod bearings from Cars Inc. lube holes did not match up well, so I just used a burr bit to egg shape. timing chain, gears and complete gasket kit from Cars Inc. use BEST gasket co. for gaskets and head gasket. go with the .015" I usually like to use BOB's, but Cars was cheaper.
    52 Special.
    Tin Militia CC

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    17
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    0

    Finally tearing down the engine

    We finally got around to tearing down the engine. We are having trouble removing one of the pistons. The rod will not fit through the bore.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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