my grandfather's 1966 Buick Wildcat

**telriv** · 02-06-2015, 06:19 PM

I also have a ''66 "Cat" 2dr. hdtp. for parts.

Tom T.

**hotelstationery** · 02-06-2015, 06:24 PM

I would love to come have a look at it sometime, once I get mine on the road.

I was reading up on the 401 Nailhead and there appears to be a low compression version that runs on regular gas called the Wildcat 375. Is there a way to check if have that one or the high compression model? Is the head the difference? If so I have pictures of the casting numbers on the head.

jeremy

**Buford26** · 02-06-2015, 08:16 PM

The Wildcat 375 was production code 2LI, your production code is 4I. Here is a list of production codes:

http://www.teambuick.com/forums/cont...976-V8-Engines

**hotelstationery** · 02-07-2015, 07:47 PM

The tank was nearly empty but I pumped out the remaining old gas today and put some fresh gas in. I did some more interior cleanup and the more I'm in it the more little things I see it needs. At some point I'm going to have to have some rechroming done as well as tracking down little bits and pieces like the sun visor rubbers. The steering wheel is pretty rough.

I had no trouble finding a 1966 Service Manual (that's how I found this site) but I can't seem to find one for 1962. Does anyone know of any online copies? Would the engine be similar enough that I could just use the 1966 manual for tune ups, torque specs and minor repairs?

It's getting warm out so I'm not going to worry about heated seats until fall but I would like to get something other than AM talk radio. To that end I've been looking at a RediRad. Has anybody put one in their car?

jeremy

**Dr. Frankenbuick** · 02-08-2015, 04:42 AM

Originally Posted by hotelstationery

I had no trouble finding a 1966 Service Manual (that's how I found this site) but I can't seem to find one for 1962. Does anyone know of any online copies? Would the engine be similar enough that I could just use the 1966 manual for tune ups, torque specs and minor repairs?

jeremy

The 66 Maunal will be good for almost everything, but there are a few differences related to the ignition curve and the particular carb settings. The 62 had 12* initial timing while the 62 had 2.5*. If the distributor and carb were switched from the original motor to the replacement motor, the 66 manual would be almost completely correct. You can check for the numbers in the Manual.

**hotelstationery** · 02-08-2015, 08:37 AM

I'm fairly competent at minor repairs, although I have more motorcycle experience and have completely disassembled engines and put them back together in functioning order, but when things vary from stock I feel less confident as I lack the deeper understanding how some things work in detail, although I'm trying to learn. The difference between 2.5* and 12* seems rather enormous to me; it seems strange to me that a distributor swap can change something like timing that much. If I ever got an aftermarket distributor (if I went with electronic ignition) how would one determine the correct setting?

Back in the preinternet days I used to have a Chilton book that covered cars from the mid sixties until the early seventies that I got from a thrift store. I didn't know the engine was swapped at the time, nor did I have a way to find out what year the 'new' one was, so I must have just set it for 2.5* as the manual states, and it runs, so I'm guessing the distributor was swapped. Next time I'm visiting the car I will try to ID the carb (I know it's a Carter) and the distributor. Are there any markings to look for on the distributor that will help me know what it is?

jeremy

**telriv** · 02-08-2015, 12:02 PM

The carb. is easy as is the distributor. The carb. number is located below the right front hold-down nut for the carb. It will either start with a 36 or 46 if I remember correctly & ends with an "S". If your electric kick-down is hooked up & working properly the carb. may have been switched as The DynaFlow linkage is different. If you can send a picture of the left side of the carb. I'll be able to tell just by looking. The dist. will have an aluminum band around it with the number. The differences are the mechanical as well as the vacuum advance rates. The '62 dist. will have 10* of mechanical advance built in (dist. is 1/2 crank degrees) so 20* at crank. 12*+20*=32* total. The vacuum advance is hooked up to "Ported" vacuum. The '66 dist. will have 15* mechanical for a total of 30* with the 2 1/2* initial will be a total of 32 1/2*. I rebuild carbs/rebush throttle shafts. I also rebuild dist. & re-curve & install a one wire electronic ignition system. The vacuum advance is hooked up to ported vacuum on the '62 carb. & will have a vacuum port above the throttle blades on the right side above the carb. number. The '66 carb. will have a vacuum port below the throttle blades for manifold vacuum on the same side but lower to be below the throttle blades.
The only problem I see is what was done to adapt the '62 DynaFlow crank to the '66 TH400 trans. converter snout. The 400 hub is much smaller than the DynaFlow hub. I also make & sell the adapters for these also.

Tom T.

**telriv** · 02-08-2015, 12:07 PM

Forgot to add. There's NO REASON to swap dist. to go with electronic as the "Nail" dist. are basically bullet proof unless set out in the weather & all rusted up. Even rusted ones can usually be repaired to some extent.

**hotelstationery** · 02-08-2015, 01:16 PM

I can add electronic ignition with the stock distributor? I've heard so much about the benefits to upgrading (easier starts, better fuel economy, more power) that it seems like a great idea for a semi daily driver.

I will try to get those pictures today. I'm guessing they worked out some sort of adapter for the '62 crank and TH400 snout. When it's on the lift next week (I hope) I will try to be there and get some pictures from underneath.

Thanks for the distributor explanation, it makes much more sense now. It's all so different from bikes.

jeremy

**telriv** · 02-08-2015, 06:55 PM

You would need to remove the bolts on the flexplate to converter & slide the converter back. You should be able to see if there's an adapter there. Wiggle the converter to see how much slop it has on the end of the crank. It should be zero slop that you can feel. I DID mention I make those adapters.
As far as electronic ignition read up on the Pertonix, many bad reviews. I've been using & selling what I have for 12 yrs. now with ZERO problems & if you feel up to it you can do it while it's installed in the car or you can send it to myself & I'll recurve, rebuild, etc.

Tom T.