alternatorquestion of what is the max and min amps?

[ryan_pope]

My battery went dead and I had it checked at auto parts store and the battery is good....So I am thinking it is my alternator. My belts is tight and after I drive the car and it is put safely away for the night, I disconnect the negative battery cable. Why, you may ask, well because usually I don't know knew the next time I will drive the car again and that could be a month or more in time.

[bob k. mando]

I disconnect the negative battery cable.



this is what you do with a car that has excessive current drain with the ignition switch off. and, of course, any car that sits for months at a time should either be on a trickle charger or have the batt disconnected.

like i pointed out earlier, things like the car clock have to draw current constantly or the clock can't keep time. that's hard on a battery that doesn't get regular charging.

[ryan_pope]

While idling in the garage I had opportunity to check my charging system. I am having a dead battery. I checked the battery at auto parts store and it is Okay. And I checked it in my Chevelle yesterday and while chevelle is idling the voltage across positive and negative terminal of battery is 14 volts.

So, I checked the Riviera voltage at idle and only read 12.1 volts at the battery posts. Thus, I took my alternator off and just got back from auto parts store where they tested the alternator, Good. It passed the test.

Thus, where do I go from here?? I noted that while idling in the garage, I heard a low and quiet buzz from the voltage regulator. It would start a buzz then stop and then start again, and repeat.

The voltage regular has a four pin connector and another single pin connector . The single pin connect is attached to what looks to me like a condenser. {if I am correct, a ignition condenser}

A) How do I proceed?
B) The voltage regulator is expensive and non-returnable. $55.00 Can I test mine that I have now in the Riviera ?
C) Should the voltage regulator be making a buzzing noise?


My belt alternator belt was Tight. My connection at the alternator were clean and tight, too.

[ryan_pope]

I know it is sunday morning and we are all busy, however, anybody got an idea for my charging issue? please

[firstofeight]

I know it is sunday morning and we are all busy, however, anybody got an idea for my charging issue? please

Ryan, I believe it is time to take your baby to the Doctor. You need to find a shop that specializes i auto electrics. They will be able to locate your problem.

Ben

[Bob]

firstofeight is probably right. You are probably going to need some help. It sounds as though something is drawing too much while the engine is off.

To solve these types of problem MAY be a challenge. You first need a wiring diagram. I just checked, the site does not have one, nor do I have one in my reference. You can do things like pull all your fuses and see if the drain is still there. If not, replace them one at a time. Your testing can be done at the battery by disconnecting a battery cable and noting the spark when it comes in contact with the post. When you are on the bad circuit it will be brighter.

If you wish to risk your Fluke, you can connect it in series with the battery terminal with all options turned off. When the offending circuit is closed, you will get a much higher reading, perhaps right off the scale!

Your problem could be located right in a harness. These are the hardest to find. They are usually caused by an old overheat issue which has compromised the insulation and allows two wires to come in poor contact with each other.

[suntreemcanic]

Ryan, I recommend not using your Fluke for testing for a drain on your battery while it sits over night. Do you have a test probe? It has a sharp point on one end, a light in the handle and a length of wire and a clip on the end of the wire. They are cheap and can be used for looking for the drain on your battery. First off test out you tool by touching the clip end to either terminal of the battery and the other pointed end to the other terminal on the battery, the light in the handle should show bright. You can reverse ends on the battery and the light should still be bright. For this test to work all the lights have to be off, the doors closed and the engine not running and the ignition switch off. Remove the negative terminal on the battery. Take your test probe light, attach the clip to the negative battery cable and touch the probe to the negative terminal on the battery in series, if the light comes on you have a drain. If the light is bright like in your initial test of the tool you have a big drain, if it is fainter you have a smaller drain. Your fuse block is divided into two sections, one section is controlled by the ignition switch and is only "hot" when the switch is turned on, the other section is "hot" all the time, like your horn, lighter, interior lights and head lights. With your negative lead attached to your battery find a good shinny piece of metal to attach the clip to and touch the end of the fuses to get familiar with how your fuse block is organized. One section (end) should be hot all the time and the other section should get hot when you turn on the ignition switch to the run position. Assuming your initial test at the battery showed you have a drain remove the neg. terminal and hook up your test probe in series start removing fuses (the ones that are hot all the time) one at a time till the light on your test probe goes out. This should get you started, now you are gaining experience to understand how electrical system operates. You just have to keep eliminating circuits till you find the culprit.

[ryan_pope]

Mr. Suntreemcanic and Mr. Bob,

Thank you for your comments. I have work to do here to find the issue. For now I am determined to find and fix it . (I can't live with this issue)!!!

Do you have comments about the voltage regulator, also? Should it make a constant low small noise if working properly? Or No noise at all if working properly? Or intermittent (start and stop noise) if working properly? Which is correct?, please.

Tonight and tomorrow tonight I plan to re-install the alternator. I recheck voltage at the battery post while car is idling (voltage only not trying to get an Amp reading, I don't want to blow up my Fluke. I do have a test probe light, so I will work through the test described ( I printed out the comment to read again and again AT the Car.

I also want to disconnect and clean the connection at the voltage regulator and also check for a Good electrical ground to the "wheel well" metal, too.

{{To everyone, I really enjoy using this website, thanks to the administers for this website !!}}

[ryan_pope]

What is the difference 12.1 volts and 13.8 volts in a car charging system? SUCCESS

I replaced the voltage regulator and the ignition condenser. And Success, the charging system is working!

Thanks everyone for your comments.

God Bless
And
Merry Christmas