455 big block

[knez 77]

Hey guys. Ive got a 1968 Buick skylark. But I do have some questions about restoring it and was wondering if someone could help me. So my first question is should I build the 350 buick that is in the car right now, or is it easier to build a 455. I was also wondering if anyone besides ta performance builds a reproduction 455 buick. Im in limbo right now on weather or not to buy a new block with all the upgrades or bandaid a stock block. I have found a 1973 buick 455 but don't know how many miles are on it and don't know what it came out of. The block number is 1241735 and the head number is 1241860. Im looking to get 4 to 500 horsepower out of the block but I don't know if the the 73 is the best block for it. Also was wondering how much this engine would be worth. All I want is the block. I offered the guy 75$ cause its nothing special and I don't know if its cracked. But would this be a good investment or should I just fork over the money and buy a block from ta. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Keith.

[Dr. Frankenbuick]

Keith,

You would not need anything special at the horsepower you desire in a stock block. It will live indefinitely with some better rod bolts and oiling mods at that level. You will need a cam, good compression and a good tune at a minimum to reach 400 HP. Head porting, headers, better exhaust, intake and carburetor will help you reach 500 HP and above. The TA block is the only aftermarket Buick block available, but is not necessary until you are making 700+ HP. I think they start bare at around 3K. I'd pay $250 for a good core 455 without thinking.

[knez 77]

Thanks for the info. I found another 455 about an hour away from my house and the guy wants 150 for it. Its a 1973. Im planning on putting ta aluminum heads on the block, but im not sure which ones will get me to the hp rating that im wanting. I was also wondering if the stock crank and rods will hold 500 hp? Thanks Keith.

[Dr. Frankenbuick]

Im planning on putting ta aluminum heads on the block, but im not sure which ones will get me to the hp rating that im wanting. I was also wondering if the stock crank and rods will hold 500 hp? Thanks Keith.

Any of the heads will reach your desired power level. The Edelbrocks at $1700 assembled seem cheapest, and are followed by the TA Stage One Street Eliminators at $2500. Having yours converted to Stage One and ported would be cheaper yet.

The stock crank is cast nodular iron with a 3" main. It is very strong and very stable. It needs to be as the relatively weak block barrows from that strength in higher HP applications. It also lives well in 700+ HP applications.

The rods are forged iron and are also very strong, but you need to have a machine shop go over them and have better ARP bolts installed. Mine lived at roughly 650 HP at 6400 RPM when I took them out to spin it harder to 6700 RPM with Oliver rods.

Oh BTW, the TA Blocks start at 6k on the website.

[carmantx]

The 73 is a good block to work from. Make sure proper oil system modifications are done.
i run stock crank and rods in my 455's with one dyno test at 648 rear wheel hp. That engine has edelbrock heads also.

It is fairly easy to get 500 hp from the 455 and not too expensive when you plan the build correctly. Run on pump gas with great street drivability.

10.25 wiseco pistons
Edelbrock heads
custom ground hydraulic cam
SP1 or SPX intake
800+ cfm Quadrajet

[knez 77]

thanks for the all the help guys. I have more questions though. Ive been reading a lot about the lifter bores and everyone keeps saying that if you are going to run the stock block with roller lifters then the lifter girtles are a must. I was just wondering if I could get the 5 to 600 hp with hydraulic flat lifters or if the rollers are a must for that kind of hp? I plan on going with forged aluminium pistons, intake, stage 1 heads, and maybe forged rods if the stock ones turn out to be no good. I was also wondering if the oil modifications could be simply done with a hand drill or is it safer to have a machine shop perform the modification? Again thanks for the help guys.
Keith

[carmantx]

I use hydraulic lifters in all of mine. If you choose to go roller, lifter girdle is necessary.

oil mods can be done with good quality drill. They are pretty much self guiding.

[Dr. Frankenbuick]

The cost of a roller cam and lifters is going to outweigh any benefit it has in a 400, 500,or 600 HP engine. There are already many flat tappet cams available that make that HP in an acceptable RPM range. You might be able to run a smaller roller with less spring pressure without a girdle, but it may only make power a few hundred rpm sooner at 2-3x the cost.

You will need to start considering a block girdle depending on RPM, reciprocating weight, and HP. Somewhere after 550 hp is where I think it becomes a good safeguard. I know there are those out there over 600 HP without one, but I have also seen broken main saddles at around 550 HP.

Here are a few links to oiling mods you can do yourself as suggested above by Carmantx:

http://www.buickperformanceclub.com/OilingMods.htm

http://www.buickperformanceclub.com/oilflow.htm