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Thread: 1946 248ci Parts Questions

  1. #1
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    1946 248 Teardown Questions

    My friend got his hands on a '46 in fairly decent shape, and has come to me for help with the engine. While I've got experience with more common and modern platforms, when it comes to working on something you can't run to the local parts shop and pick up every single part for, I'm somewhat overwhelmed. The car has been sitting outside under shade for a number of years, and I figure one of the first things that needs to be done engine wise is to pull the engine and pull every part with a gasket between it and the block, and check everything out. My main fear right now is with pulling the head.


    Can somebody with a bit more experience working with engines like this reassure me that pulling the thing apart is a good idea? How far should I go? Should the rotating assembly come out? I have been able to fairly easily find things like gaskets for this engine, but I'm afraid about what will happen if I need something like piston rings or bearings, or things where I haven't been easily able to find parts for prices that fit our budget.


    If we do strip the engine completely down, and things look in good shape, is it reasonable to attempt to reuse the piston rings, bearings and fasteners?


    I haven't actually seen the car yet, so I'm not sure what exactly to expect. All I know about it engine wise is that it hasn't been run in at least the last 10 years or so.
    If somebody could give a some advice
    Last edited by bman22; 05-24-2014 at 01:01 AM.

  2. #2
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    I would suggest you to look at first for the motor is free and let turned without plugs from hand,then take a look to the plugs for theyr face,
    when all looks good,named no old burned water or oil is visible, then I would pull the dist and turn with a drill maschine the oilpump for prepressuring all bearings,for that pull the valvecover and look for oil is coming there on the shaft.the outside tube in front of the motor
    If all is good to this point i would assemble all,fill up water,clean the carb, check the ignition for working and give him a starttrail with fresh gas.
    Then you can look whats for noises, oiling,smoking , or what else, then i would decide what is to do.
    If all is ok i would run the motor carefully and look whats happen in the next time.
    and then -- don't fix running systems -- ;-) .
    Its an 3 speed, you must think for a glueing clutch is possible.

    If i remember right the rodbearings 48 have babbit inserts yet , they start with insert bearings 49.
    If you have luck, they has changed the rods at the last overhauling to the new with inserts.

    my2cent

    Jenz
    '38 Special Coupe, pimped 263 cui
    ---- LIFTERS CC GERMANY ----

  3. #3
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    I agree with everything Jenz says, except first pull the valve cover before you try to turn the crank. You want to watch for any stuck valves that might bend a pushrod.

    Ray

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by raycow View Post
    ..()... first pull the valve cover before you try to turn the crank. You want to watch for any stuck valves that might bend a pushrod.

    Ray

    Jenz
    '38 Special Coupe, pimped 263 cui
    ---- LIFTERS CC GERMANY ----

  5. #5
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    Alright, that certainly sounds doable. It'll be a few weeks still before we actually get working on the car, but I'll be sure to come back and say if we get it running well.

    Thanks

  6. #6
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    stuck valves

    Quote Originally Posted by Jenz38 View Post
    yes and yes. they have a tendency to stick valves if sitting for a long time. take a plastic hammer and pop each valve before rotating engine. TURN ENGINE OVER BY HAND FIRST.
    52 Special.
    Tin Militia CC

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