"HOW TO's" on all around disc brake conversions A-Body?

[Drebeast1992]

Please point me the right way! Thanks

[Premier 350]

Have a look at Pirate Jacks. They have front & rear disc kits for the A bodies. I've just ordered their front disc conversion for my '69 Skylark.
Should see it in early July. I'd be happy to give you a review- be it good or bad.

I've spent a lot of time researching disc kits and we're spoiled for choice with A bodies. Everything from a basic OEM style kit to full on 4 piston calipers with pizza sized discs.

I did look at the Scarebird conversions. If I had easy access to American wrecking yards I'd have gone that way. But in Australia I don't.

Cheers,

Chris

[bob k. mando]

yeah, we really need to know where you are and what year car you're dealing with if you want anything specific.

here's Scarebird:
https://scarebird.com/index.php?rout...tegory&path=59

[Drebeast1992]

So has anyone ever went the scarebird route? Seems like it would be better since it uses the stock drum spindles. My first choice was the one from pirate but now I'm kinda interested in the scarebird route.
Is there any how TO's out there with pics and stuff, or can anyone kinda give a general idea of what I gotta do? I'm sure I can probably figure it out but I kinda want something to go by just in case I get stuck. Or does anyone have pics of their own setup so I can know what it should look like when done?
Thanks for the replies by the way.

[Drebeast1992]

Almost forgot I have a 1972 buick skylark coupe and I'm in san antonio tx

[Premier 350]

I've pretty much got the disc conversion done, about 90%. Some minor problems with the kit.

The kit usually comes with a 1" M/cyl, I went for a 1 1/8",since thats what GM used back in the day.

Car is a '69 Skylark, factory power drums.

1)LHF brake hose was fouling on full right lock, I repositioned it. Doesn't look that elegant but it won't rub.

2) Proportioning valve/distribution block has different flare fitting sizes from the OEM one. Getting a local guy to come out & reflare 3 lines.

3) No resuidual pressure valve anywhere for the rear drums.

4) Dust caps are really tight. Dented them, ended up using a punch on the flange to get them on. No biggie.

The good things:

1) Didn't widen my track- or if it did, about 1/4 inch.

2) All the spindles,steering arms bolted straight on.

3) Ditto the booster & M/cyl.

4) Flare fittings at the M/cyl are fine.

Current status is that I'm waiting on the mobile flare bloke to turn up. Then fit & bleed everything. I'll keep you posted.

One piece of advice is to use Inox/WD 40/ your favourite penetrating oil, etc on the booster bolts. You have very little room to swing a spanner (wrench) in there, and if you can spin the nuts off
by hand it's much faster.


Cheers, Chris