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Thread: Hello guys. Got a 1946 Roadmaster to restore.

  1. #1
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    Hello guys. Got a 1946 Roadmaster to restore.

    I'm a "newbie" here, but am an old fart who just bought a barn find 46 Roadmaster. I got from an 85-year old fellow who got it from his Father who was the original owner. The car has not run since 1981 when it was parked because of a clutch problem. It's a solid beast with mostly surface rust. The only rust through is on the skirts and trunk ring. Other than needing some body and interior TLC, I found the clutch pedal will not come up without some help, and it does not release the clutch. The biggest issue is the motor is stuck big time. I have the plugs out and have tried rocking the car with it in gear to work the motor loose. I have tried Marvel oil, ATF, PB Blaster, a few choice cuss words, but nothing works. I took the rocker arm assembly off to find the rockers and springs are stuck too. Except for two valves, they seemed to be free when I tapped on them. The push rods feel like they are stuck in glue, and I plan on taking the side cover off for inspection. I plan on pulling the motor with tranny attached because I'm not big on working under 4500lbs on stands. I thought this would be a better way to get at the clutch/pressure plate assemblies. I want to get this original motor running. I would appreciate any helpful info to get the motor to turn.

  2. #2
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    Take off the bellhousing bottom cover and use a prybar directly on the gear teeth. This usually works unless the engine has really serious problems.

    Once you get the cover off, you can have a helper push on the clutch pedal while you watch from underneath to see if the fork and release bearing are moving as they should. If they are, your clutch disc is probably rusted to the flywheel or pressure plate. In that case, you might want to wait till you get the engine running to try to break it free.

    Ray-

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by raycow View Post
    Take off the bellhousing bottom cover and use a prybar directly on the gear teeth. This usually works unless the engine has really serious problems.

    Once you get the cover off, you can have a helper push on the clutch pedal while you watch from underneath to see if the fork and release bearing are moving as they should. If they are, your clutch disc is probably rusted to the flywheel or pressure plate. In that case, you might want to wait till you get the engine running to try to break it free.

    Ray-
    The clutch pedal will stay on the floor unless you pull it back up by hand. I think you are correct re the rust on the pp or flywheel. I have the starter off and did not have any luck through there. I am thinking that I'll drain the oil and refill with diesel fuel then pull the distributor so I can use the oil pump to circulate the fuel. I appreciate the advice. Bill

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by raycow View Post
    Take off the bellhousing bottom cover and use a prybar directly on the gear teeth. This usually works unless the engine has really serious problems.

    Once you get the cover off, you can have a helper push on the clutch pedal while you watch from underneath to see if the fork and release bearing are moving as they should. If they are, your clutch disc is probably rusted to the flywheel or pressure plate. In that case, you might want to wait till you get the engine running to try to break it free.

    Ray-
    I appreciate the advice Ray. I have the starter off and tried prying without any luck. I expect you are right about the rusted pp or disc. The clutch pedal will hit the floor and stay there without releasing the clutch. A couple of problems there. I'm going to drain the oil so I can refill with diesel fuel. I'll then remove the distributor so I can use the oil pump to hopefully clean the channels and loosen things up.

  5. #5
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    If you are going to be putting solvent in the engine, pull all the plugs and pour about an ounce into each cylinder. Don't use a whole lot, or else you run the risk of hydraulic lock.

    Ray

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by raycow View Post
    If you are going to be putting solvent in the engine, pull all the plugs and pour about an ounce into each cylinder. Don't use a whole lot, or else you run the risk of hydraulic lock.

    Ray
    Yes. After I run that pump, I'll let it sit for a couple of days, then try that pry bar from underneath. Thanks, Bill

  7. #7
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    I have been trying daily for a week now to get the distributor off. It is stuck to the block, and will not move even with both bolts out. I have tried liquid wrench, PB Blaster combined with tap, tap, tap, tap, and heat gun with no luck. I have been trying this method every day, along with rocking the car with it in gear. A knuckle-buster wrench on the flywheel did not work either. I'm beginning to believe this motor may be fried. I'm giving it another week of soaking and tapping, then plan on pulling the head.

  8. #8
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    How about a pipe wrench on the distributor?

    Ray

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by raycow View Post
    How about a pipe wrench on the distributor?

    Ray
    That would be worth a try. When I tap on the distributor base where the bolts would tighten down, the base feels like part of the block. The valve train was tight like that, but I did get it off. There was a brownish liquid (rust?) under the towers. I read also to totally fill the crankcase with diesel and let soak. That would help free the bearings there I hope. I'm going to soak the valve train too. The rockers and springs are stuck pretty good on the shaft.

  10. #10
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    Still stuck

    I finally got the distributor off. After much tapping, prying and soaking with all kinds of magic potions, I finally got it pried off. Of course the retaining tabs had to break off. I was planning on upgrading the ignition anyway. The distributor is totally frozen and will not turn. This was contributing to the motor not turning. The oil pump turns freely, but I can't get the diesel to pump up to the head. I don't know if the pump moved any of the diesel. I used a 700 RPM air drill to turn the pump. I'm speculating the diesel is too light for the pump to move it. Have any of you guys ever tried this with any success? The only other idea I have re the pump is to drain the diesel and add some cheap oil then try to pump that.

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