Whats the best way to remove a 1956 buick special station wagon transmission?

[brutee]

I recently purchaced a 1956 buick station wagon.It was in storage so 20 years.I got her running, got the brakes working after crashing thru the back wall of my shop lol.Now it looks like the front transmission seal is leaking bad.It has the soild drive shaft so whats the best way to tackle this job? Any help i would be grateful.Thanks Bruce.

[Long Roof]

It has been awhile since I did mine but as I recall you need to pull the rear axle back after the bolts are removed from the torque ball at the end of the transmission. I used a come along tied off to the rear bumper along with a piece of 4x4 to protect the gas tank from the cable on the come along. Wrap the other end around the axle. Pull the axle rearward until the end of the torque tube comes clear of the splined end of the transmission.

Remove the large bolts that connect the bell housing to the engine. There are three bolts that connect the flex plate between the engine and front of the transmission that need to be removed before the transmission can be pulled back from the engine. To get to these take the inspection cover off the front of the bell housing to access the bolts on the flex plate. You will need to rotate the flex plate aound to expose the three bolts one at a time. Use a long pry bar on the teeth of the flex plate. The three bolts are 120 degrees apart and have a slightly different appearance from the rest of the bolts you will see on the flex plate.

It is a job you can do, just takes a little while the first time. Good luck.

[telriv]

The way I've done it many times in the past just involves using the original bumper jack. This involves using no chains, blocks of wood, etc. & creates NO possible damage to any other components. 1st. remove the e-brake cable from the bracket on the torque tube. With the bottom of the jack, with the "V" groove on the bottom of the jack up against the e-brake cable bracket against the torque tube & the "Hook" of the jack to the rear part of the "X" in the frame. Now click the lever for the "Up" position & use the jack handle/lug wrench & just jack it back. The last click will be the hardest, but will supply you with plenty of room to be able to remove the trans. I have done this SOOOO many times I can't count. Can even be used to remove ANY Buick manual trans. as it allows plenty of room to move the trans. out of the bellhousing.
Just my experiences.

[Long Roof]

Tom,
That does sound like a better way. If I only had a jack...

[brutee]

So Tom, you are actual jacking the torque tube up out of the way What about unbolting some things?Thanks.

[lstepp2]

If you are a purest follow the drop the rear-end method. I am NOT A PUREST.I am going to drop the Buick Rear-end and replace it with a new rear-end thatuses a driveshaft and has disc brakes. A person can take their Buick rear-endand the replacement rear-end to a machine shop. Using the Buicks old rear-endas pattern a good machine shop will duplicate all of its mounting and placethem on the newer rear-end. When done right the new rear-end will bolt up. Ihave had challenges with the Buick Torque tube since I was a kid. If you have adriveshaft there is no need to 'DROP THE REAR-END.' If you do replace theRear-end with newer 12 bolt rear-end you will have to REPLACE THE OLD TRANSMISSION. I am using a T-700 or maybe a GMseven speed automatic transmission. The torque tub and the truck gearedrear-end in the car has given me 9 to 10 miles per gallon. Some people claim theyget 12 mpg. With T-700 transmission or newer transmission your car should getabout 18 to 20 mpg. If done correct the Buick will still have its high stanceof 5" from the road surface. When the transmission is changed the SteeringColumn will need to be converted to a conventional GM shifting pattern.
Lonnie