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Thread: No spark on 264 in 55 Special

  1. #1

    No spark on 264 in 55 Special

    Okay, I'm stumped, I'm trying to get the orig 264 nailhead in my 55 Special to fire, it's getting fuel and air, I replaced;
    points (gapped@.015)
    condensor (Mallory)
    coil (Mallory)
    plug wires (MSD Streetfire not installed yet)
    plug wires on car now LOOK okay...
    Dizzy cap

    heres where I'm stumped; put key in car and hit gas pedal (or pull throttle rod on carb) motor cranks like a champ, getting fuel and air but its not even trying to turn over, when I was replacing points/condenser I forgot the key was on and got a spark on the screwdriver from the points and condenser sooo I'm assuming I have spark at the dizzy (?)
    what am I missing? What should I look at next?
    thanks for any info/input guys
    Last edited by Bolt-Action; 11-09-2012 at 10:36 AM.

  2. #2
    Am I thinking wrong?
    if the plugs or plug wires were fouled or damaged it would still try to fire on the the good ones, so I would think it has to be something else (?)

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bolt-Action View Post
    what am I missing? What should I look at next?
    A systematic method of troubleshooting is always more effective than just throwing parts at a problem in the hope that one of them will stick.

    Did you check for spark at the coil high voltage wire while the engine is cranking? If not, do that first.

    If no spark, run the following tests in the exact order given, but feel free to ask for clarification if you don't understand any part of the procedure. You will need either a multimeter or a test lamp to check for power. The (+) and (-) terminal designations assume that the coil is wired correctly. In other words, the (+) should be connected to the ignition switch and the (-) should be connected to the distributor.

    Turn the engine by hand until the points are open. Now turn on the ignition switch and check for power at both the (+) and (-) terminals of the coil. You want to see power at both of them. If no power at either one, check all the way back to the switch, because you have a break in the wiring somewhere.

    If you have power at (+) but not at (-), disconnect the lead going from the coil to the distributor. If you have power at (-) now, you have a short to ground somewhere in the distributor or the connecting wire. If still no power at (-), you have a break inside the coil.

    If you have power at both (+) and (-), turn the engine by hand until the points are closed. Now you want to see power at (+), but not at (-). If you don't get this, either the points aren't making contact or else you have a break in the wire between the coil and distributor. After you run these tests, please post back here and tell us what you find.

    Ray
    Last edited by raycow; 11-09-2012 at 04:09 PM.

  4. #4
    Thanks Ray,
    ill go through it tomm (if its not pis**** down rain)
    i also need to verify my points are gapped correctly AT the right time.
    the only reason I "threw parts at it" was only because they were in dire need of replacement anyway so I figured I'd take care of it as I was goin thru it.
    thanks James

  5. #5
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    Well, I hope the weather co-operates tomorrow. What part of the world are you located in?

    Make sure to check for spark at the coil wire first, because you may not need to run the other tests. If you are getting a good spark at the coil, check at the individual plug wires next.

    Good luck, James, and please let us know what you come up with.

    Ray

  6. #6
    Thanks, I'm in KS, let the Oz jokes fly lol
    Ill def let ya know what happens as I'm goin along. Can't wait for this lil nailhead to fire, then I can move onto the brakes...

  7. #7
    Just to verify before starting, the coil high voltage wire-is the wire going to the condenser piggybacked on the coil?
    Im assuming all my testing will be done with the ignition on or cranking the engine (?)

  8. #8
    Okay, is it me or is it always a nickel holding up a dollar?! Some little thing stopping the works, just my luck I guess...
    anyway...SHE'S ALIVE!!!
    lol
    I went thru and double checked everything before I got started testing and found that the wire going to the points from the dizzy had exposed wire where the material covering it had slid back, that exposed wire was grounding out on the dizzy plate. After recovering the exposed wire and connecting it back to the points (routed the opposite direction this time) I reinstalled everything and stuck the key in her and hit the pedal...
    I was rewarded with the sound of a baby nailhead gasping to life!!
    I'm so stoked, thanks a bunch Ray!!!
    now to the drum brakes

  9. #9
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    No Kansas jokes, except that I wouldn't wish winter there on anyone I liked.

    That damaged wire insulation you found was exactly the sort of reason I was suggesting those tests. Anyway, I'm glad to hear you found the problem so quickly and that the engine runs ok.

    Just in case it comes up again, the coil high voltage wire is the thick one that runs to the center terminal of the distributor cap. If you want to check for spark, pull it out of the cap and hold the end about 1/4" away from any metal part on the engine. Hold the wire at least 1" back from the end because the spark can sometimes jump that far on a good day.

    Ray

  10. #10
    Appreciated Ray.
    question-the condenser(?) mounted on top of the coil, can I replace that with a regular dizzy condenser? Or is it actually a different part?
    thanks again

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