1963 Buick Skylark Dynaflo Shift problem

[Skylarkowner]

Hello to everyone,
I just purchased a 1963 Buick Skylark with a 215 C.I Aluminum Block. It does have the Dynaflo name stamped into the Trans housing.
I was wondering if any experts here can help me. I'm having a heck of a time finding much info about this trans....Here's the problem I'm having with it. It does not want to shift into high gear as I think it should. It will not shift into high until I hit around 43 MPH. Once in high, it stays in High gear until I get down to around 10 or 15 MPH, then it shifts to low. But It still will not shift back up to High gear until around 43 or so MPH. I thought it could be a Vacuum Modulator problem, but once I took a look under the car, seems it does not have a Vacuum Modulator. There is adjustable linkage from the Carb down to the side of the Trans. I did some adjusting on that linkage it did seem to improve the shifting speed point a little, maybe. But it seems, while in (Drive), around the 43 MPH point is about the speed it will auto shift into high. I would assume it's suppose to shift into high at a much slower speed if one is accelerating very gently and easily. It does seem to down shift (Kick-Down) correctly when I'm cruising along at about 40 or 50 MPH or so then stomp on the accelerator. Any help you expert's can provide me would be VERY MUCH appreciated. I'm at a tolal loss on what is wrong and how I may repair it.

UPDATE:
I did find some info just now that says the Dynaflo is always in High gear, low gear can only be obtained by manually shifting to (L) Seems my car, even when in (D) Drive, wants to stay in low until I go over 40 MPH, then it auto shifts from low into High. Boy am I ever confused now??? Anyone with any info. at all for me?

Thanks for being here!

[raycow]

Dynaflow is the transmission in full-size Buicks. As you correctly point out, that transmission doesn't shift unless you shift it manually.

The proper name for your transmission is Dual Path. It was used only in 61-63 Specials. I have no clue why Buick put the Dynaflow name on that one, as it is causing a lot of confusion for unknowing owners 50 years later. Didn't Buick have enough confidence in their cars to think they would last this long?

The Dual Path is definitely supposed to upshift like any other two-speed. I swapped one into an Olds F-85 a while back, and the shift point was no more than 15-20 mph at minimum throttle.

From your description, I would think the governor might be sticking or otherwise damaged. If not the governor, then the throttle pressure valve (the transmission appears to behave as if you are holding the throttle wide open all the time).

I looked on ebay to see if anyone is selling a service manual for this transmission, but no luck. There are outfits selling parts though, so you might want to contact one of those to see if they can point you toward a manual.

Good luck, and please let us know what you find out.

Ray

[Skylarkowner]

Hey Ray,
thank you very much for your time and info. I now understand this much better. It's good and bad news I suppose. Good to know this info but it probably means expensive repairs. I was hoping it was only a linkage adjustment problem, or something simple.

Yesterday when I did make a few minor adjustments to the (Kick-Down) linkage, it did seem to lower the first to second gear shift point. From about 55 MPH down to a little over 40 MPH. Do you think there's any chance this shifting problem could be over come with simple adjustments and or repairs on this linkage? Like I say, it did seem to improve things some.

Thanks in advance.
B.

[raycow]

The Dual Path is not a particularly troublesome transmission. That's why I installed one in the F-85 to replace a Roto-Hydramatic, which was legendary for problems.

As a test, you could disconnect the throttle valve linkage at the transmission end, but first check to make sure that the default position of the transmission lever is in the "closed throttle" direction. If it isn't, use a piece of wire to tie the lever in the closed direction. Also, check that the lever moves freely and doesn't bind.

Then drive the car around the block and see if it shifts at about 15-20 mph (or less). If it does, then you can be pretty sure that the problem is external and should be correctable by adjustment. If you don't see much improvement, you will have to bite the bullet and go inside.

NOTE: Do not drive the car for an extended period of time with the linkage disconnected, as this is not good for the transmission. Particularly, try to avoid using a lot of throttle or accelerating the car hard. Remember, this is for testing only, not for normal driving.

Please post again after testing and let us know what you find out.

Ray

[Skylarkowner]

Hello again Ray,
Just when I was about to give up hope you come through with a great way to get to the bottom of my shifting problem. I will let you know how your testing idea goes. I hope I'll have time today, if not it will be very soon. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it will shift correctly with your "tie the lever in the closed direction" idea.

Thanks MUCH!
B.

[Skylarkowner]

Greetings Ray,
all I can say is WOW, you are De Man! I followed your great and easy advice and POOF it shifts perfectly now. I did as you suggested, I wired down the lever on the side of the Trans in the "closed throttle" position. Heck, I hardly got 50 feet out of my driveway at about 18 MPH and it shifted into second gear just as it should. That was too easy man :-)

Here's what I think the problem was. As many say, these Trans like to drip a little fluid. It appears right where the lever enters the Trans case, it was wet with fluid. Over time dust and gunk had built up around that lever and it's assemble, in turn that gunk was restricting the lever just a little bit from relaxing all the way into it's closed throttle position. It was quite gummy, so I disassembled the linkage there then used some engine cleaner/degreaser on it. It cleaned up nicely. Put it back together and now she shifts like a Champ! The guy who sold it to me told me the trans may need rebuilt. I got it for a very low price. I figure worse case, I'd replace the trans in it rather then rebuild it.

I feel that I owe you something for your fantastic advice and knowledge of these things. It's amazing to me that it was such a simple fix, but a very hidden problem. I really doubt I would have ever figured that out on my own. I may have ended up spending alot of $ to get it repaired. I Thank you I thank you and I thank you. I also would like to thank this group for being here for us novice Buick enthusiasts such as myself. Now off to tune it up, lube, oil change Etc... It all seems fairly sound, perhaps the drive-line U-Joints are bad though. Anyways, now I have a cool vintage car to play around with in my spare time.
I love this ole' Skylark!

Thanks MUCH again,
B.

[raycow]

Ya know, I always enjoy hearing about a happy ending. Thank you for telling us what you did and how it worked out for you. Maybe this will be of some help to the next person who comes along.

The next time you have the pan off for an oil change, you might want to see if there is a seal on that shaft (I honestly don't remember if there is) and replace it while you are in there.

Ray

[Skylarkowner]

Hello again,
OK I now have what many will think is a dumb question. So here goes. How do I locate the #1 cylinder on my 215 V-8?
I think it needs timed, when I stomp on the accelerator when the engine is either warm or cold, it repeatedly spits and backfires up through the carburetor? I hope it's only a timing problem anyway...

Thanks,
B.

[raycow]

#1 is the front cylinder on the left hand side as you sit in the car.

Ray

[Skylarkowner]

Thanks AGIAN Ray!
hey do you know if the lifters on my 1963 215 V8 are adjustible ot not? Sorry for all my questions, but I'm kinda new to the Buick family!

B.