Water pump skylark 1966 / 300CID

[Vincent72]

Hello all,
I want to know the use of the big screw with a square head on the top of my water pump.
Because I have some little water is going through this screw out !

Sorry for my poor english and bad mechanical level !
Best regards to all
Vincent

[raycow]

Does the engine have a hose which looks like this?
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...,parttype,2155

If not, it seems like a previous owner might have installed a plug in the hole where the bypass hose would normally connect. In that case, is there another plug where the manifold end of the hose would go? This would be on the fitting that the upper radiator hose connects to.

The best repair would be to replace the hose, but I am thinking that you are probably missing the hose nipple also. What country are you in? If you are not in the US, I think you might have a metric plug in the pump with non-matching threads and that is the cause of the leak.

Ray

[Vincent72]

Hello Ray,
Thanks to answer me

The problem is not with the bypass hose and the thermostat housing.
The problem is directly on the water pump.
There is a hole on it to connect "I imagine" a temperature gauge or something else.
But actually with this new water pump there is a big screw in this hole to close it.
The problem is: the water go through and between the screw and the water pump.
I must "paint" some special stuff on the thread of this big screw for stop the water perhaps ...

What do you think about it ?

Best regards

[raycow]

Ok, I was able to find a picture of the pump with that plug installed. It appears to be a normal pipe plug, so it should be perfectly all right to remove the plug, put some thread sealant on the threads, and re-install it in the hole.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3103635

I still don't know what is the purpose of that hole, though. It is on the "cold" side of the system, so you wouldn't want to install a temperature gauge there (unless you wanted to know the temperature of the water coming back from the radiator).

Ray

[Vincent72]

Thanks Ray,

I put some sealant on the thread and hope it do it : )

AN other question:
I need to change the ignition set point and the condenser.
But in my distributor cap I have, with the vacuum advance, a system with "two centrifugal weight".
I don't see any screw to remove it.
This system is just under the ignition rotor.
Perhaps I must remove the entire distributor ?
If you have an idea about that...
because it's impossible to remove the condenser and ignition point with this advance system.

Best regards

[WildKitty]

DON'T pull the distributor - unless you are absolutely certain you know you can get it back in place
correctly.

just remove the rotor cape by removing the two phillip screws

I don't have my 300 here (it's in the car now, across town), but you can change points/condensor
but just removing one screw. the condensor/capacitor has a horseshoe connector on the pigtail -
you have to make sure the horseshoe gets between the insulators on the plate or it will ground out.
(I know, I did mine without putting on my glasses) - engine wouldn't start.

If you're going to be working on your car for a long time, buying the CD from Detroit Iron is well
worth it. I have the two 64 Buicks, the CD has saved me tons of work.

[raycow]

I have, with the vacuum advance, a system with "two centrifugal weight".
I don't see any screw to remove it.
This system is just under the ignition rotor.
Perhaps I must remove the entire distributor ?
If you have an idea about that...
because it's impossible to remove the condenser and ignition point with this advance system.

It is not necessary to remove the centrifugal advance mechanism. If it prevents you from getting to the points screws, just turn the crankshaft by hand until the screws are exposed.

As already stated, you definitely do not want to remove the distributor.

Ray

[Vincent72]

Ok,

Perfect !
I'm waiting my parts ( point set, condenser, and...many other )
And when I receive them I try to change without remove the distributor.
But if I remove the distributor and I make attention to write a marker, do you really think it's difficult to replace it ?
I must be careful to reassemble it correctly with my marker.
What problem do you think ? Seal ? mechanic problem ?
I know my firing order and wiring of my spark plugs and the ignition rotor must be in the right place.

Thanks for your help, experience and tip-off : )

Vincent

[raycow]

if I remove the distributor and I make attention to write a marker, do you really think it's difficult to replace it ?
I must be careful to reassemble it correctly with my marker.
What problem do you think ? Seal ? mechanic problem ?

You need to make two sets of matching marks before you remove the distributor. Mark the distributor body relative to the engine and mark the rotor relative to the distributor body. You could also mark the position of the crankshaft if you think there is any chance of it being turned while the distributor is out of the car.

When you re-install the distributor, line up both sets of marks and this should get the timing close enough for the engine to start. If the distributor doesn't want to go back into the engine all the way, you may need to turn the oil pump shaft slightly. Shine a light into the hole so you can see where the slot is.

I'm sorry, but I don't understand your question about a seal or mechanical problem. Is this still related to the distributor, or are you asking about something else?

Ray