Question About Front Brakes

**Mike1947** · 06-18-2012, 03:41 PM

Hey All

1950 Buick that runs and stops well. It is manual brakes, no power. At 30-50 mph if brakes are applied normally (no panic stop) it stops straight. However, if the brakes need to be applied hard and fast, it will pull to the left. If it pulled all the time, that would cause me to look at adjustment -- possibly. Not sure though. Any thoughts or things I can look at? Appreciate any ideas.

Mike

**Jenz38** · 06-19-2012, 01:42 AM

Hi Mike,
Check your Brakecylinder(especially left) for that both Pistons are free and not sticky in the Cylinder.
Another Reason is Air in the System(front Right) or too much closed (growtight) Rubberhoses.
When was your last Brakejuiceservice ? (Changing is all 2 Years !!)

**raycow** · 06-19-2012, 11:18 AM

Remove both drums and inspect carefully for any differences between the two sides. This should include condition of the linings and drum surfaces, shoes installed incorrectly (shorter lining must face front), brake fluid or wheel bearing grease leaks, and missing or damaged springs or retaining hardware. Also, confirm that the anchor pin above the cylinder is tight. I worked on one car where it had come loose and caused problems similar to yours.

Ray

**Mike1947** · 06-19-2012, 04:11 PM

Jenz and Ray

Thank you for the the help. Pulling the drums and doing an inspection was my fist thought. Until I do that I will be simply guessing. Jenz, the car is new to me and I do not know if the fluid was changed. What is the recommended fluid? If I pull the drums, my normal procedure is to replace or rebuild if needed while I'm in there. I would always check the wheel cylinders and if there are any issues at all, I'd do a rebuild.

Again, appreciate the help.

Mike

**Jenz38** · 06-19-2012, 09:28 PM

Mike,You must use fresh DOT 3 Brakefluid from a sealed Container. Not use the modern DOT 4 or 5.
Flushing the whole System after you check the rear Brake Hose(for outside damage,cracks or Bulbs),-Cylinder and Mastercylinder for Leaks and free Pistons also.You need nearly 1 Liter(=1 Quart). When all is OK,start flushing on the longest Distance from the Mastercylinder=rear right then rear left,front right,at last front left (thats the Procedure for all LHD Cars). Important : If the Mastercyl. is Ok and You use it like it is,don't press while pumping the Pedal the whole Way down,only half Way,because the Sleeves in the Mastercyl. go then in a unused (rusty) Area and starts THEN to leak.
Please do it right,its a 1 Circle Brake, and thats your only Insurance in the Traffic.

Hope this helps.
Greetings

**Mike1947** · 06-20-2012, 06:59 AM

Jenz

Thank you for the info -- I appreciate your help. Like I said, my brakes seem to function well, but like you said, you never want to take 62 year old brakes for granted. I do believe that there has been work done to them recently (within the last 2-3 years) but I do want to do an inspection to see if there is anything obvious that needs attention. Thanks again!

Mike

**suntreemcanic** · 06-20-2012, 10:09 PM

I experienced front brakes pulling when applied and when I jacked up the offending wheel I noticed the wheel bearing was loose. I pulled the wheel inspected the brakes, could not find anything wrong reassembled the wheel and adjusted the wheel bearing correctly. Test drove the vehicle. The car then stopped straight. Give the wheel bearings a look by grasping the top of the tire and try to move it out and in. Apply a good amount of force, a person of average strength can do this test. Do not grab the left and right sides of the tire and wiggle them as you will probably feel movement but it is more likely tire rod ends creating the movement. If you decide to lift the wheel off the ground it is very easy to detect a loose wheel bearing.

**Mike1947** · 06-21-2012, 05:33 AM

Originally Posted by suntreemcanic

I experienced front brakes pulling when applied and when I jacked up the offending wheel I noticed the wheel bearing was loose. I pulled the wheel inspected the brakes, could not find anything wrong reassembled the wheel and adjusted the wheel bearing correctly. Test drove the vehicle. The car then stopped straight. Give the wheel bearings a look by grasping the top of the tire and try to move it out and in. Apply a good amount of force, a person of average strength can do this test. Do not grab the left and right sides of the tire and wiggle them as you will probably feel movement but it is more likely tire rod ends creating the movement. If you decide to lift the wheel off the ground it is very easy to detect a loose wheel bearing.

Thanks for the information. Not sure I would have ever thought about whell bearings. Easy enough to check. If it pulls left, could the left side bearing be the offender, or is it the opposite? Thanks again for the tip!

Mike

**Straight80** · 11-25-2012, 02:26 PM

You said you can't trust 62 year old brakes, you're right. Do something about it! As far as do not use DOT 5 is false!! I can't tell you how many years I have DOT 5 in my 48 Roadmaster, well over 12 years! No problems! I over hauled all the cylinders, including the master cylinder. Blew out the entire system, and filled the system with DOT 5 Brake Fluid. Now my 64 year old system is functional without attracting moisture, because DOT 5 is silicone based. Not oil based!

**Jenz38** · 12-01-2012, 10:36 PM

On my Car i have done it like you,Anthony, 2 Years ago . It works very fine and looks always clean and clear.

The reason why i told Mike that "HE" don't using DOT 5 is because you can't mix it. And i'm nearly 100% shure for that he have OEM Fluid in his System.
A normal flushing isn't enough cleaning for to Use DOT 5 .

late Greetings