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Thread: 1966 buick lesabre has a "very weird" issue with the left wheel hub!!!!

  1. #1

    Unhappy 1966 buick lesabre has a "very weird" issue with the left wheel hub!!!!

    To make a long story short, my steering is pulling hard to the left. I have almost destroyed 2 vogue tires because of this from " a feathering" effect on my tires. Ive taken the car to a alignment shop and they said my alignment is dead on considering the lift suspension on the car. I replaced my center link a few months back cause of play in one of the ends and as i went to jack the car up, with the linkages disconnected, the left wheel hub it self mysteriously turned to the left. i went to straighten the wheel back out and it twisted to the left again on its own, as if there was something pulling it and ironically, that's the same direction my steering wheel pulls once all the linkages are connected. Dose anyone know what this could mean? The right side hub, with linkages disconnected just sits there fine, no kind of whip lash pull or nothing. Its only the left wheel hub. PLEASE HELP!!!!!

  2. #2
    i would ask what your caster was degree-ing at but ANY alignment shop worth a damn should be able to find that.

    never hurts to double check though.

    everything is tight and snug when all the links are together?


    what is your toe? is it toed in or out?

    of course, if your steering linkages are detached you have no toe at all ...
    The way to crush the bourgeoisie is to grind them between the millstones of taxation and inflation.
    Vladimir Lenin

    Government schooling is about "the perfect organization of the hive."
    H.H. Goddard, Human Efficiency (1920)

  3. #3
    YES, BASED ON THE SHOP. i'VE TAKEN THE CAR THERE 3 TIMES AND EACH TIME I'VE BEEN TOLD THE ALIGNMENT IS NOW GOOD. GRANTED WITH THE LIFTED SUSPENSION, I'M NOT EXPECTING "PERFECT", BUT THERES NO GOOD REASON AS TO WHY I HAVE TO DRIVE WITH MY STEERING WHEEL COCKED CAUSE MY WHEELS WANT TO PULL LEFT. BUT I'VE TRIED TO EXPLAIN THIS TO SEVERAL FOLKS AND NO ONE TENDS TO TAKE IT SERIOUS AND I HAVEN'T BEEN ABLE TO FIND A SHOP HERE IN TAMPA I TRUST AND WILL GIVE ME A NO **** SOLUTION. I JUST DON'T UNDERSTAND HOW A WHEEL WANTS TO DO THIS....IT SERIOUSLY FELT LIKE TWISTING A SPRING AND WHEN U LET IT GO, HOW IT WANTS TO SNAP BACK TO ITS ORIGINAL POSITION, THATS HOW THE LEFT SIDE HUB IS ACTING, WITH THE LINKAGES DISCONNECTED THUS FEELING THE SAME THING IN THE WHEEL WHILE DRIVING.

  4. #4
    have you shown the shop this problem with the linkage off?

    Camber could force the wheel to flop over but that would just be a gravity effect, it wouldn't feel like it was "spring loaded". i suppose a really heavy wheel assembly might 'feel' spring loaded ...

    i am by no means an expert on lift kits, but it may be that the linkages on one/both of the control arms are not square on the car. this would permit the vertical force of the spring to deflect the wheel one direction or the other.
    The way to crush the bourgeoisie is to grind them between the millstones of taxation and inflation.
    Vladimir Lenin

    Government schooling is about "the perfect organization of the hive."
    H.H. Goddard, Human Efficiency (1920)

  5. #5
    i've tried to explain this problem to a shop, but its like they take offense to it cause i guess they think it me trying to tell them how to do their job but i'm just simply trying to explain a problem and what ive seen.with linkages on, u can't see the problem, but once u start driving, u notice it. i just wish i know of a shop who specialize in this and they could look at closer for me,,,,,

  6. #6
    ok so what if i attempted this......lets say i disconnected the linkages and the wheel does it again, what adjustment could i make to get the hub back centered. Now that i sit back and think on it, u may be exactly right!!! With the heavy wheel on it, gravity is i believe taking control, especially when i have the front end lifted of the car jacked up. but which setting, srew or whatever would i need to adjust to the "pull or gravity" effect is gone in that hub?

  7. #7
    i've tried to explain this problem to a shop, but its like they take offense to it

    any reputable alignment shop should be able to see from your worn tire that there is a serious problem. if you're going to the shop AFTER you mount a new tire, take the old one along. that might shake them up a bit and make them listen.

    you might also want to try finding an older alignment guy. especially one with experience in modifications or lift kits, even if that means trucks. they're likely to be more sympathetic than a regular alignment shop. this is likely not going to be a problem that can be solved by a modern computer controlled alignment system, it's going to require a person who can actually examine the problem on it's merits and think about what's going on.

    part of the problem with them 'taking offense' is likely that they have no idea what to do about the suspension if the computer doesn't tell them what change to make.



    especially when i have the front end lifted of the car jacked up

    you can't really tell anything about what the suspension is doing if the tire is just hanging in the air. the only reason i'm keying on this is because you say that the OTHER front tire does NOT do the same thing when unloaded. the wheel assemblies should be symmetrical with the linkages off.




    what adjustment could i make to get the hub back centered.



    first, you be assuming wrongly that the left wheel is the problem. this may not be the case. it may be that the RF also needs to 'flop out'. if both wheels want to do the same thing in opposition to each other, when you connect them with your steering links these forces will cancel out and the net effect will be that the car will track straight. it would be nice to know how much weight is on each corner of the car as you normally ride.

    second, you have to assume that your linkages and mounting points are square on the car. i don't know if they created new mounts when they put your kit on, if they did you'll want to compare the L and R sides of the car very closely.

    third, inspect your control arms for straightness and length. it's possible that one of the control arms is goofed up and they've "adjusted" the alignment problem out of it instead of actually fixing the problem.


    camber and caster.

    camber moves the top of the tire inboard / outboard relative to the bottom of the tire. best handling practice is normally to have the top of the tire inboard slightly.

    caster moves the top of the spindle back towards the firewall in relation to the bottom of the spindle. caster helps the tire to track in a straight line, adding caster will create more resistance when you turn the steering wheel.
    The way to crush the bourgeoisie is to grind them between the millstones of taxation and inflation.
    Vladimir Lenin

    Government schooling is about "the perfect organization of the hive."
    H.H. Goddard, Human Efficiency (1920)

  8. #8

    Alignment

    Find a good staight road, have someone else drive your car while you fallow and see if the body is traking the wheels [not going side ways].Try to find some place that still has a frame staightner that was not for the modern cars without a frame.

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