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Thread: Roller Tip Rocker Arms

  1. #1

    Roller Tip Rocker Arms

    I got nope for answer from T&D Machine Products, and no answer from Rockerarms.com, so I got frustrated and designed my own. I'd like to get your thoughts about the design, especially regarding the oil supply. These are 1:65 theoretical ratio, with a fast opening/closing off-seat ramp. I'm using the roller tips of my scrap set of Crane Gold SBC rockers. They could be machined as well, but heat treating is a bit tricky.

    My idea is to grind an oil passage around the bronze bushing, much like a main bearing, and pressure feed the roller tip and spring, as well as the pushrod side. Sure, this requires a larger oil passage to the rocker shaft.
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  2. #2
    They look pretty straight forward. Machining wouldn't be hard. Do you have dimensions? I could play around at work.

    Aren't there 3 different rockers. On the 320. A left right and center?I need to go pull my valve cover
    Last edited by handmedown40limited; 02-17-2012 at 06:17 PM.

  3. #3
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    Handmedown,
    You are correct. There are three different arms. The roller tip will have to move left, right, and center. Just for the record, the Salt Cat hasn't broken a stand, arm, or shaft. We use stock stuff. However, a 1.65 ratio would be nice, and a roller tip would be great.
    Doug

  4. #4
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    Hi Jyrki,
    A Question,
    It looks like the small holes that goes throu the Arm are for the
    splash-oiling to Springs and Pushrod..
    is this correct ?

    Jenz

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Jenz38 View Post
    Hi Jyrki,
    A Question,
    It looks like the small holes that goes throu the Arm are for the
    splash-oiling to Springs and Pushrod..
    is this correct ?

    Jenz
    This is correct. The stock rockers feed the pushrod through the adjusting screw, but it's better to feed this way. In the stock system, the oil hole gets blocked off if you need to turn the screw much in or out from the standard position. That said, you should get pushrods that give you maximum lift. With the stock rockers, it means turning the screw in, until the threads are flush with the rocker body (no threads showing on the pushrod side). Also, if you get aftermarket adjuster screws instead, it's easier to find screws without oil holes, and you are better off with a screw with full threads coupled with aluminum rockers, since aluminum needs a longer contact area.

    As for the valve spring, the stock rocker has an oil hole on top, at the two o'clock position, squirting who knows where. And the oil holes in the shaft and in the rocker don't match very well
    Last edited by Jyrki; 02-18-2012 at 05:54 AM.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Buick Guy View Post
    Handmedown,
    You are correct. There are three different arms. The roller tip will have to move left, right, and center. Just for the record, the Salt Cat hasn't broken a stand, arm, or shaft. We use stock stuff. However, a 1.65 ratio would be nice, and a roller tip would be great.
    Doug
    Yes, this is the exhaust rocker - all eight are straight. The intake rockers are offset at both ends, four of them are left hand and four of them are right hand.

    The stock rockers are 1.5 nominal ratio. They give a slow off-seat motion, increasing in leverage (and opening rate) as approaching full lift. They won't break, that's for sure, but with .550" lift and 5/16" stem, they rub across the whole valve tip from one edge to another. Combined with a stiffer spring, that's something I don't want. They work better with the stock 3/8" stem, but the roller tip is still an improvement. With a roller tip, together with rocker shaft stands that give the correct geometry at mid-lift, the roller tip makes a mere 0.02" wide sweep across the valve tip (0.550" lift)

    I'm going to use the stock shaft, too. But I'm going to make new stands. Saltracer said he found the stock shaft whip like crazy, nut he must be running a whole lotta spring pressure. The Comp beehive spring, retainer and locks that I'm going to use, weigh 45 grams less per valve than stock Buick (98 g versus 143 g). I think I'm going to start with 110 lbs seat.
    Last edited by Jyrki; 02-18-2012 at 06:35 AM.

  7. #7
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    I don t think springs only are responsible for the stand and shaft to whip.
    After reading Saltracer, I had a look at my 263 stands, with stock springs, and one is quite broken in half ...
    Making stronger new ones should be easy, with the right tools of course, and will be an improvement even on a stock engine.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by nali View Post
    I don t think springs only are responsible for the stand and shaft to whip.
    After reading Saltracer, I had a look at my 263 stands, with stock springs, and one is quite broken in half ...
    Making stronger new ones should be easy, with the right tools of course, and will be an improvement even on a stock engine.
    Saltracer specificly stated he made billet stands and the shaft was still whipping, until he made a new shaft. I can imagine the shaft ends whipping, but I have a hard time imagining the section between stands would be whipping.

  9. #9
    Finally moving forward with this. This is the final design. 8 straight, 4 left, 4 right. I assume the 248/263 are same, only none straight, but 8 left and 8 right. The shaft diameter has been the same all the way from the '34-'36 233 engine.

    These will be made of 7075 aluminum, the same ProCharger use to make their billet impellers. All weigh the same within 0.1 grams
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  10. #10
    One more picture!
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