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Thread: i need advice and/or information on a disc brake upgrade for my 65 buick.

  1. #1
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    i need advice and/or information on a disc brake upgrade for my 65 buick.

    I am looking to up grade my Buick's brakes. I am looking to install front disc and all that goes with it. I know someone out there has already done this seeing the drums are unsafe if you put any horsepower to the car. Also a dual circut master cylinder will offer better/safer braking.
    So come on, who has figured it out, knows what group of GM cars I can pull the spindles, front disc brake assembly , p/valve and master cylinder off of and bolt it to my buick. Of course, i understand i will have to make some new hard brake lines.
    Any input will help.
    thank you.

  2. #2
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    Well, you didn't say "65 what" if you have a Rivvy, it will be much simplier that
    the swap I did on the Wildcat, etc etc. I used Rivvy rotors and calipers on the wildcat spindles, making a 5/16ths spacer to hold in the rear bearings. I ordered the caliper
    brackets from "Scarebird". with one bolt head issue, they worked fine.
    you can call them and order specifically for your Buick and get a list of donor cars.

    Do a search - in the upper right corner "disc brake conversion" and you will get an extensive thread on the swaps that Buick Team has done.
    Butch

    64 Wildcat 445
    64 LeSabre 300
    67 Impala 327

  3. #3
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    Scarebird info

    1965-70 Buick Electra, Wildcat, 1966-70 Riviera
    1. Read instructions thoroughly - twice!
    2. Crack front wheel nuts loose, chock up rear wheels. Jack up front end of car, support crossmember with jackstands. Remove front wheels and drum/hub assembly.
    3. Disconnect brake flexible line at frame by spraying with penetrant oil, then unscrewing hardline nut with flare wrench, then removing clip. Undo lower drum backing plate nuts, and remove drum bolts. Remove drum backing plate and all drum hardware in one assembly. Clean off spindle assembly
    4. Slip adapter plate over spindle with caliper opening to the rear as shown in first picture. Note how steel bridge goes to the outside.
    5. Insert new, supplied shorter top bolt loosely, then reinsert lower bolts. Now torque upper bolt to 90 ft-lbs. and then torque lowers to 75 ft-lbs. Since these bolts are shortened, you may need to cut back you socket so the inner bevel disappears, or use an open end wrench or crow’s foot.
    6. Clean and repack wheel bearings. Insert inner bearing into rotor, and install new seal. Assemble rotor onto spindle, along with bearing and washer, then tighten outer nut to spec, then secure with keeper, new cotter pin and new dustcap.
    7. Wipe down rotor with alcohol, lacquer thinner or other cleaner to remove grease and oils.
    8. Wash hands! Rotor must be squeaky clean
    9. Install loaded caliper with bleed screw facing up, and lube contact areas with silicone grease then screw in slide bolts, tighten to 35 foot-pounds. We recommend using the softest pads you can find for street use, like NAPA’s Tru-Stop organic. Pads are the same application as calipers. Check fitment and rotate rotor to check clearance. If you are using the stock rims, you will need grind back the “horns” on the caliper. This is best done in a vise with a small angle grinder
    10. Mock up hose routing with fuel line to find best length – we found that the 15” 1979 Seville front hose works best. Hoses should run down from caliper, then up to hardline, forming a “J”. Install new hoses with copper crush washers then reconnect to hard line. Some hardlines may have a 7/16” nut – if so, you will need to find an adapter, or cut off flare, insert 3/8” nut then reflare. Master cylinder and proportioning valve specs are quite varied. I would recommend 1971-76 Riviera or similar disc master cylinder for best performance match available in both power and manual flavors. Some have used the existing single chamber master cylinder with success. If rear brakes lock up excessively, plumb in an adj. prop. valve in the line going to the rear.
    11. Bench bleed disc master cylinder, mount on car. Gravity bleed first, then pressure/pump bleed entire system and test.
    12. Replace wheels, torque wheel nuts, lower car and carefully test. We use the 30-30-30 method to break in pads: 30 easy stops from 30mph with 30 seconds cooling between stops. Then let cool ½ hour.



    Part Application NAPA Wagner Raybestos
    Rotor 1971-76 Riviera front 85537 BD60258 5006 or 5006RGS
    Caliper, LH 1990-02 AWD Astro front 242-2138 TQM25002 RC4418
    Caliper, RH 1990-02 AWD Astro front 242-2139 TQM25003 RC4417
    Caliper bolt (4) 1990-02 AWD Astro front 82792 F117224 H5044
    Hyd. hose (15”) 1979 Seville front 36845 F98912 BH36845
    Hyd. hose (17”) 1979-82 Eldorado front 36959/36960 F98914/98914 BH36959/36960
    Banjo Bolt 1990-02 AWD Astro front 82703 Dorman #4842051
    Bearing, Inner 1971-76 Riviera front BR5 SKF A5
    Bearing, Outer 1971-76 Riviera front BR3 SKF A3
    Wheel Seal 1977 Riviera 19753 BCA Part # 8871

    Scarebird Classic Brakes LLC 11 November 2008 Rev G 9/16-18 x 1-1/4

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