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Thread: 1952 buick 70 series Brake shoe issues.

  1. #1

    1952 buick 70 series Brake shoe issues.

    Hello,
    I am in the process of replacing rear brake shoes on my 52' roadmaster. These shoes are the 2 1/4" width. These shoes were purchased from Bob's.

    My question is that all 4 shoes for the rear they are "very nearly" the same size. Meaning i cannot tell which is the primary or secondary shoe. The width is correct at 2-1/4" but 2 of my shoes have 10-7/8" length of shoe on them and the other 2 have 10-3/4" on them. This is only 1/8" difference. This difference to me could be easily a margin of error when the shoes were bonded. I was expecting at least an inch or so of difference.

    I called Bob's and they pulled about 3-4 boxes of shoes for my app. and they all measured out the same as well? They stated that all of their re-pro shoes are of the same length (surface area) and composition? Does this make any sense?

    Is this normal in aftermarket shoes? Any other possibilities?

    Thanks to all who reply. Matt.

    P.S. The shoes in the pics were cocked a tad when the pic was snapped. They both have the same amount of lining.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Originally the shoes were riveted to the actual steel structure, NOT BONDED!!!! On the '51 I had there was a NOTICEABLE diff. in the shoe lengths for primary & secondary. Send them back & get a set from Kanter.
    Tom Telesco
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    NailHead Mini-Starters '53-'66
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    "If I can't get it, you don't need it!"

  3. #3
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    brake shoes

    If your frames are in good shape, send them to a reputable, well known, been in the business for ever type of company and I can almost guarantee they will be rebuilt correctly. The place where I recommend is Otts Friction in Portland, Oregon. I know that is nor convenient for you but I am sure there are people in your area who know what they are doing, you will just have to do some research. Stay away from the auto parts who have everything in blister packs hanging on a J-Hook. They usually don't know their blank from a hole in the ground. NAPA is a good bet.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by suntreemcanic View Post
    If your frames are in good shape, send them to a reputable, well known, been in the business for ever type of company and I can almost guarantee they will be rebuilt correctly. The place where I recommend is Otts Friction in Portland, Oregon. I know that is nor convenient for you but I am sure there are people in your area who know what they are doing, you will just have to do some research. Stay away from the auto parts who have everything in blister packs hanging on a J-Hook. They usually don't know their blank from a hole in the ground. NAPA is a good bet.

    Hmm, i was sure hoping that Bob's could have came through a little better for me, especially since they are a classic buick specialist?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by suntreemcanic View Post
    If your frames are in good shape, send them to a reputable, well known, been in the business for ever type of company and I can almost guarantee they will be rebuilt correctly. The place where I recommend is Otts Friction in Portland, Oregon. I know that is nor convenient for you but I am sure there are people in your area who know what they are doing, you will just have to do some research. Stay away from the auto parts who have everything in blister packs hanging on a J-Hook. They usually don't know their blank from a hole in the ground. NAPA is a good bet.

    my opinion is riveted shoes work best. for more info see reference in shop manual page.

    http://www.teambuick.com/reference/contents.php
    Last edited by 39CENT; 07-07-2011 at 11:29 AM.

  6. #6
    I guess i have a solution. I went with raybestos professional grade rear shoes. There is alot more surface area, there is also a primary and secondary shoe and they are riveted.

    I just felt better going with the something that both buick and physics intended. From what i've read the rear shoe needs to be larger to balance out braking due to the rotation of the drum when braking. Otherwise there is an increased chance for uneven spots in the drums.

    I'm also digging the increased surface area to stop a 1952 roadmaster. I need all the help i can get if you know what i mean?

    Thanks to all who replied.

  7. #7

    brake shoes

    I'll be starting on my 52 super soon....what will I be up against? I think it has 1.75 front shoes...not sure about reas. The Rabestos shoes you bought...were they off the shelf or were they custom made by Raybestos?
    Thanks
    Dave

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Al's 52 View Post
    I'll be starting on my 52 super soon....what will I be up against? I think it has 1.75 front shoes...not sure about reas. The Rabestos shoes you bought...were they off the shelf or were they custom made by Raybestos?
    Thanks
    Dave

    The brake job is pretty basic and straight forward. If questionable it's always a safe bet to have the shop manual and you could always do 1 side at a time for reference. My shoes are on order they were off the shelf. Raybestos number i believe is 197pg (professional grade, if i remember right?) I looked them up by application on o'reilleys website. However i didn't purchase from oreilleys as they were unable to get them. I purchased them from a non-chain store locally. Ordered them yesterday, I should get them by Monday.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Al's 52 View Post
    I'll be starting on my 52 super soon....what will I be up against? I think it has 1.75 front shoes...not sure about reas. The Rabestos shoes you bought...were they off the shelf or were they custom made by Raybestos?
    Thanks
    Dave
    according to the '52 manual the super series brake shoe width is 2.25 front and 1.75 rear. roadmaster is larger at 2.50 front 2.25 rear. So if you want more stopping power adapt a '52 roadmaster brake system

  10. #10

    Anyone....

    put in the disc brake setup from Kanter's?

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