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Thread: Aluminum Radiator

  1. #1

    Aluminum Radiator

    Hey guys, I'm wondering where I can get an aluminum radiator for my 66 skylark GS. I want the biggest baddest radiator I can fit in the support because my nail LOVES to run hot. It doesn't have to look stock, just function properly and have the inlet and outlet hoses on the correct side as well as the tranny coolant lines. I would love for my nail to run at about 160-170 degrees on a warm summer day. Just wondering if any of you out there know where to get one.

    Thank's

    66 buick guy

  2. #2
    I got mine for a '67 from these guys:

    http://www.chevellecooling.com/


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  3. #3
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    When you say "runs hot", HOW hot?
    my 445 gets it's best MPG @ 180-190degs.
    I've got the electric fan on the 455 to come on @ 190, off @ 165 -
    and I think that's too much of a swing, but it isn't IN a car yet,
    I think 180-190 wouold be right.

    The radiator temp would be cooler if you install an outside transmission cooler.

    I think you want the engine temp to be constant 12 months out of the year.

    To my knowlege, nailheads do run best @ 180-190
    Butch
    64 Wildcat 445
    64 LeSabre 310
    73 455 on trailer
    67 impala 327

  4. #4
    she runs hot alot. 220 if the outside temp is anything hotter than 75. Its done this since the car was completed 15yrs ago. Its got a new 5 fin water pump, 160 thermostat, factory 4 core radiator (radiator shop said the inside looked like new when i had them flush it), new fan cluth, 7 blade factory fan, new fan shroud, 20,000lbs GVWR tranny cooler. I even retarded the timing about 8 degrees and put the heaviest advance springs in the distributor I could find: NO DICE....The weird thing about it is: The car will idle all day long at 180 even in hot weather but when i drive it and get the RPM's up the temp climbs climbs climbs.

    Thank's

    66 buick guy

  5. #5

    hot buicks

    Hey, my 350 ran warm too.(386 horsepower on the dino) I helped it with an alum. radiator . Called the guys at Wizard Cooling in N.Y. (they have a web site) Gave him all the spects on shape ,size, ect and 6 days later it was at my door. Ran me around 400.bucks.plus shipping.Just a little info for you....I have a electric fan on it with a shroud that runs on a adjustable set point for on/off .170 thermostat Also running a remote oil filter through a cooler.Also no trans cooler in radiator-- got a big cooler infront of it. Also found out that most temp gauges will very by up to 25 degrees.. Had a cheap one from NAPA under the dash so I bought a good probe type for industerial use (90.bucks) and screwed it into a plug on the intake -it reads175 when the cheap one reads 200..Just trying to help.........Keep cruisin....

  6. #6
    Thank's guy's......I appreciate the input. It will be nice to drive my GS on a nice warm summer day rather than waiting till spring or fall or a cool summer night. I called and talked to (Don, I believe) at Alumitech Reproductions: He said he could make me one for my 66 GS but he would just have to reverse the tanks because of the odd orientation of the inlet and outlet hoses on 65 and 66 GS's. The Alumitech Reproductions price was $495.00. I'll call Wizard Cooling on Tuesday (Hopefully they're there after the holiday) and see what they say, how much it will cost etc.

    Thank's again for all the suggestions

    66 Buick Guy

  7. #7
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    Lemme throw this in; check the radiator hoses when the engine is hot - can you collapse
    them by squeezing? If you can, therein lays the problem.

    the old hoses had a wire coil in them to prevent just that. idling, everything is honky dory, rev the engine and the water pump will suck the hose closed.

    my .02, if it's worth anything

  8. #8
    I never even thought about that. I know that the top hose is always full of pressure when the engine is hot (about to burst actually) and I dont believe it gets sucked shut when I rev the engine, but the bottom hose might be a different story. I will check it when I get my diveshaft in so I can pull it out of the garage. I'll let you know what I come up with.

    Thank's

    66 buick guy

  9. #9
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    If you can squeeze the upper hose after it's warmed up (engine doesn't have to be running)
    you might want to get a new radiator cap... that was the cause of my 350 overheating
    beat down two brick walls before I figgered that one out.
    Keep us posted
    Butch

  10. #10
    Ok, got my driveshaft in and took her for a spin to get it warmed up and she got up to 215 degrees real quick (100 degrees, 70% humidity, and 78 dew point here in southwest Iowa)....Both radiator hoses were full of pressure at a steady 3,000 rev.....I'm really confused:I dont get how these cars didn't over heat from the factory......I guess I just have to get an aluminum radiator...Most websites say their aluminum radiators cool 30% better than stock so that should put me right about 180 degrees if all goes well.

    66 buick guy

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