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Thread: 1955 Buick Roadmaster 4 disc conversion HELP!!!

  1. #1

    Exclamation 1955 Buick Roadmaster 4 disc conversion HELP!!!

    hi all!

    im converting my 55 roadmaster 4 door to 4 wheel disc brakes. i bought all the parts needed (brackets, calipers, rotors etc)

    the question i have is what is a good direct bolt on dual reservoir master will work or even a firewall mounted setup??

    1955BuickBarnRat posted he did a direct bolt on dual reservoir master but never stated from what or where. also what other parts would i need to finish off the brakes???

    thank you!!
    Richie
    Hey wait, I'm having one of those things again. You know, a headache with pictures....

  2. #2
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    where do you want to mount the master cylinder? How much work do you want to do? Almost anything can be adapted, it just depends on how much work you want (or need) to do....

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by stoneshrink View Post
    where do you want to mount the master cylinder? How much work do you want to do? Almost anything can be adapted, it just depends on how much work you want (or need) to do....
    i would really like to relocate it to the firewall(because there is really nowhere to mount a booster under the body). im looking to do the lease amount of work possible. just havent seen or heard of anybody relocating it to the firewall, so i dont know what setup would work.

    the firewall on the drivers side has a plastic cover with a, i think, drain hose. i dont think its the heater cause that unit is under the drivers seat and blower motor on the passenger side firewall

    id love to find some1 on here that has done it already and see the pix. also like to know what they used and how much work it was
    Hey wait, I'm having one of those things again. You know, a headache with pictures....

  4. #4
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    I've not done a 58, although I've helped my dad on his 55 and done a relocation on my 54 Studebaker truck.
    What I've learned (hope it helps)

    1) I should have simply gone with hydroboost and left the brake setup as it was (under the floor)
    2) dual diaphram boosters fit quite well, but can really make the brake inputs sensitive
    3) when you mount in the firewall, make certain that you reinforce the wall - it's an amazing amount of pressure exerted on a small space
    4) the aftermarket boosters and master cylinders don't work better - however, they can be quite a bit easier to fit because they generally have 5 different positions that the brake lines can exit (both sides, one off the front).
    5) the hardest part is always the pedal and the rod alignment.
    6) be sure that when you decide on where the rod alignment is you have at least another 1/8" of travel more then what the master cylinder allows (1/4" is better)
    7) most times, there is more room inside the cab, under the dash for putting in master cylinders - but if they leak or there is a spill, it makes a huge mess (knowledge from a friend who did it).

  5. #5
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    How did you make out on the conversion? I'm doing a 58 Buick estate wagon. Discs/calipers etc. are in front and back. I too am wondering what master cylinder and booster will work easily. Thoughts? Cheers. Michael.

  6. #6
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    the calipers don't care what makes the fluid flow to them - just whether or not there is enough volume. On my 83 Chevrolet 4x4 truck, I put the same calipers on the back as are on the front wheels (and the same rotors) - and used the original master cylinder and didn't mess with the proportioning valve... and it stops as well or better than any other conversion I've done to date.

    the rule of thumb I use is I look for a car with the same front/rear weight ratio for balancing; and about the same overall weight for the master cylinder. Thus, you can use a 7/8" bore master cylinder but you'll have more brake pedal than you would with a 1" or 1 1/8" bore. With each larger size (again, this is my experience and the experts are welcome to add their 2 cents) the brake pedal action gets firmer - meaning less travel on the brake pedal. On your 58 I'd use either an 1" or 1 1/8" with a vacuum assist or hydraulic assist booster - then you get a nice touch and brakes that will stop you. I'd also use a master cylinder from a car like a 90 Caprice wagon which is disk/drum along with its proportioning valve (again assuming the rotor size I said above)

    Whichever you do, be sure if you're using used parts to make sure they flow and never reuse rubber lines - they're cheap to replace and can cause no end to your headaches if they are restrictive.

    helpful?

  7. #7
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    master cylinder

    on my 56 I installed it on the fire wall . I removed the bubbles and redirected the drain system. I am using a corvette style master !" bore 7" dual Booster with 4 wheel disc brakes . All works fine with no problems.

  8. #8
    sledhead,
    How about posting a couple of pics of your setup?

    1956 Buick Century Estate Wagon

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