TH200 Trans 1-2 shift slips

**staplesclan4** · 04-10-2011, 03:58 PM

I just rebuilt my TH200 trans behind my 3.8. The 1-2 shift is sloppy and soft. I installed a shift kit and 3rd shifts fine. Not having the right tool I did not replace the apply pin for the servo. I am thinking about putting the next longer one in. Can I use washers instead? Does anyone have an idea on how to determine the right pin without the high dollar tool? Any suggestions? Thanks.

**Anomaly** · 04-11-2011, 11:58 AM

I assume you are referring to a 200-C 3-spd, as opposed to the 200-4R 4-spd. While I am not the expert, from what I understand through talking to transmission shops, the 200-C really isn't strong enough with otherwise stock internals for such mods as a shift kit.

The 200-C was offered as a cheaper, lighter alternative to its TH350/TH400 cousins. The bulk of its internals are aluminum... and they don't hold up well. While steel replacements are available, and they can be made to live, it's a lot like hot-rodding a Honda, it can be done, but you'll spend more money and may not really be happy with the result...

While I can't help with your existing problem, However, I have a number for a local shop in my area that you might consult on this. Quality Transmission @ 434 295 1260.

I am curious, did you rebuild the 200 for the sake of preserving originality? Most people swap these for TH350s when they go bad... I have, however, seen a few opt for beefing up the 200 to keep the car original (although originality isn't necessarily a good thing in cars that came with the 200). Difference? Beefing up a 200 with all the upgrades costs anywhere from $900-1300 for a bench job (and that was 12 years ago), whereas a built TH350 tops out at around $950 INSTALLED... Honestly, you're much better off with the TH350. Just my $0.02.

**staplesclan4** · 04-13-2011, 05:40 PM

Thank you. Do you know if the TH350 is a clean swap; no linkage or other mods needed?

**Anomaly** · 04-13-2011, 06:42 PM

From my experience, linkage, length, etc. is the same. Most models it is pretty much a bolt-in, but on some, crossmember adjustment/relocation/reorientation is required, nothing major. Also needs a vacuum line from intake or carb for the modulator. If you do this swap, make sure you get a BOP bellhousing case, a Chevrolet pattern will NOT bolt up. Lockup convertor is optional if your car was designed with one. Will help fuel economy, but won't hurt anything if not equipped.