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Thread: 364 hot starting problems

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
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    364 hot starting problems

    Hi Guys
    I am looking for some help with some starting problems on my 58 Special. Engine is a stock 364 fitted with the original Stromberg WW-2 carb and a Petronix igniter instead of point.

    Engine starts very easily when it is cold and purrs like a kitten all day on the road. Temperature never rises above normal even at highway speeds and it uses no oil or water.

    I have had a problem with it vaporizing when it has had a long run and sits for 15 - 20 minutes. It either won't start or starts and drives a few yards and then stops. I have cured this by fitting an electric fuel pump that the mechanical pump can suck through and running it for a few seconds when ever the problem is likely to occur.

    My main problem at the moment is hard starting when the engine is warm. By warm I mean it has had a long run and then sat for an hour or two. In this situation I have to crank the engine for what seems to be a long time - maybe 15 - 20 seconds before it wants to fire. Once it gets running everything is sweet and it will run all day. I have lowered the float level thinking it might be flooding but this has made no difference.

    I run the electric pump in case there is no fuel left in the bowl but this also makes no difference. I still have the starter switch on the accelerator pedal and always open it fully to try and clear any excess fuel. Nothing seems to make the engine any easier to start and I am worried that I might damage the starter or ring gear with the amount of winding I have to do to get it started.

    Has any body experienced any similar problems or have any suggestions.

    regards
    Peter

  2. #2
    Make sure the heat riser valve is NOT closed after warm-up. If it is it will have TOO much heat under the carb. which causes the fuel in the carb. to "Boil" out & flooding the engine. The electric fuel pump is just refilling the carb. bowl.
    Tom Telesco
    Classic and Muscle Automotive
    12 Cook St.
    Norwalk, CT 06853-1601
    Day Phone 203-324-6045 ET
    NailHead Mini-Starters '53-'66
    Adjustable Roller Tip Rocker Arms - All NailHeads
    Custom forged pistons
    Front & rear neoprene seals
    Many other "Nail" parts
    "If I can't get it, you don't need it!"

  3. #3

    engine hard starting....

    you might take a look at how the choke is set when the engine is stone cold... it should be set so that the opening is about 1/8th to 3/16ths.... and then fully open when the engine is warmed up.... and like Tom says ,, check that heat riser valve to make sure that it is working right....lube it with graphite...using locksmiths oil....
    another thing that can affect the starting is the strength of the electric spark at the plug... should be bright blue and have ''snap''.... weak , yellow flame will not get it..

  4. #4
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    Do you have any exhaust leaks? How rusty are your fuel lines? How old is your fuel pump? Has your oil level risen at all? Have you tried parking the car hot and then checking up on it every 5 mins to see if fuel is boiling over and out your venturies? Also keep a plug wrench with you, next time its hard to start pull out a spark plug and see if its wet. also how old is your coil.

  5. #5
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    So you cant unbolt your small bell housing from your dynaflow and then bolt the big bell housing from the newer 57 transmission to it?

  6. #6
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    Jul 2008
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    Hi guys

    Thanks for all the suggestions. I live in sub-tropical Austalia and have disconnected the automatic chock and jammed the thermo valve flap in the exhaust manifold open since I don't need then in this climate.

    Float level is OK. I am convinced the probem is caused by the fuel boiling in the carb when the engine is stopped after a long run.

    I have been looking for a phenolic spacer for under the carb but can't find on to suit a WW-2 Stromberg. I have been talking to some people around here and there is divided opinion as to whether I should make new intake manifold gaskets with the ports where the exhaust gas is channeled through it blanked off. The manifold gets so hot you can't hold your hand on it and one train of thought is that the boiling point of modern fuel is now down around 80 degrees centigrade so the manifold doesn't need heating.

    One other suggestion has been to add two litres of diesel fuel to a tank of petrol - apparently this ws common practice in 30's model Buicks to stop them from vaporizing.

    Does anybody have any opinions on either of these suggestions.

    Thanks
    Peter

  7. #7

    Nail head fuel heat problem....

    Dont put diesel in the gas....

    The normal temp for a nailhead intake manifold, when the engine is fully warmed up on a hot summer day is 127 degrees....
    i would do like Tom T. does and block the heat risers just under the carb but not the manifold heat coming from the heads... it is easy to do.... just tap the round holes in the intake right under the carb and then make some plugs out of bolts and run them down in the tapped holes.... this will block the heat just under the carb but leave enough heat in the manifold to make the cat pee gas flash into a vapor....
    and that should cool things down a bunch....

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