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Thread: Oil pan gasket replacement in car

  1. #1
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    Oil pan gasket replacement in car

    Is it possible to change the oil pan gasket in the car on a 50 super with a straight 8? I have all of the bolts loose but it seems to be hitting the oil pump. I don't have a hoist to raise the engine up but I am pondering putting a jack under some portion of the engine to get a little bit of lift to get the pan out of there. Also with the dynaflow in the car, I wanted to change the pan gasket but after removing all of the bolts and nuts on the pan, it wouldnt come loose even with a mini sledge hitting a piece of wood against the pan. I am wondering if someone might have put epoxy on this to keep it from leaking and permanently seal it up. Any thoughts?

  2. #2
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    On a 263 , the pump goes really down in the pan . I even think it touch the bottom.
    So you need about 5 " of clearance, unless I m wrong .
    For more fun , the bottom can move to go really deep

  3. #3
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    I actually did get it off with the engine in the car. I had to rotate the crank so that the balance weight for the #1 cylinder was up and then she slid out alright. getting it back on was a pain because of the cotter pin in the oil pump pickup. I flattened the pin down and she went back on. Got it tightened down now but going to have to get a new drain plug washer before I can fill it up.

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    Good .
    It seems rotating the crank is the magic on those engine . Even to remove the cam , you must rotate it
    Mine is not on a car , so it was quite easy ...

  5. #5
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    Getting it out is the easy part

    Getting the pan out of that car is the easy part, the sump on the oil pump swivels a bit and is fastened to the pump with a cotter pin. if you jack the car up leaving the suspension hang, you can probably clear the sump over the steering drag link. Getting it back in is slightly more problematic, since you're going to want to be careful of damaging your new gasket, or even sealant on the way back in.

    The pan has a baffle across it just where it goes from the long flat section to the area where the sump sits.

    Your options become, pop one of the knuckles loose on the drag link, or, remove that upper baffle in the pan.

    Turning the crank won't help much since you're going to run into interference from the second main bearing cap.

    I say this having replaced all 4 of the engine/trans mounts. which BTW, if they're broken, good luck getting her into reverse if you have the Dynaflow. As an aside, if you DO have broken motor mounts, you'll probably not be able to take advantage of those nice little holes they put into the front crossmember for getting a socket on those forward pan bolts.
    Last edited by BentBiker; 02-04-2011 at 12:21 PM.

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