Buick street brusier

[gmcgruther]

My uncle and I are planin on building a possible 494 stroker Buick 455 Stage 1 with T/A Performance Stage 2 Track Eliminator heads. I need some information on if I can use the stock 455 rods, and what pistons are aviable! I don't want nothing over 11.5:1 compression,but I do need forged pistons,Possible use of nitrous later on. I don't plan on using alot of nitrous. Please tell me what size rods I do need. I also need to know where I can get double adjustable upper and lower control arms for a 1969 to 1970 Skylark. I also need information on where I need to brace the frame on this car before going to a rollbar or cage, My other uncle is boxing in the control arm boxes. I'm looking on going in the 9's possible 8's when done but looking stock.

[gmcgruther]

I have done several Mustangs, settin them up for street racing and drag racing. I know how make the qaudralink work, No need for air bags here! I just need to know where to get the double adjustable control arms, The rest I have David Wolfe of Wolfe race craft help me on what to do and have him make different piece's to make the car more managable, more of a true four link car! Please help guy's, I can help you too if I do know what you need!

[Dr. Frankenbuick]

here is a start: http://hrpartsandstuff.com/.

[gmcgruther]

here is a start: http://hrpartsandstuff.com/.

Thank you, I promise when we get done on my Uncles car, I'll post complete build and times. I'm 37 and my Uncle is 57 this yr. I'm startin late but late is better then never.

[carmantx]

We used Spohn for rear components, and drag bar. you need that for 10.5 tire.

You guys need to do a bunch of reading for the buick build. You could go to TA sportman rods. The block will need a bunch of prep to hold the horses. TA makes a girdle, and you should do a till.

Frame should need anything. The cage will tie it all together anyway. We are low 10's on a pump gas 464. Hoping for some 9's this year with some spray.

[gmcgruther]

We used Spohn for rear components, and drag bar. you need that for 10.5 tire.

You guys need to do a bunch of reading for the buick build. You could go to TA sportman rods. The block will need a bunch of prep to hold the horses. TA makes a girdle, and you should do a till.

Frame should need anything. The cage will tie it all together anyway. We are low 10's on a pump gas 464. Hoping for some 9's this year with some spray.

I plan on doing tons of mods to the engine to accomadate the power, we have all the liteture from Buick on what to do on making the oil system more exceptable and the gridles, Fords love those, I don't see anything wrong using them and I highly recommend them in any engine, I googled spohn and I say thank you, there are like Wolfe Racecraft Suspension, but I'm adding the extra pick up points on the upper control arm pick up on body and adding the extra pick up points on the lower rearend ones, this away I won't be yankin 4 ft wheelies, I only want 6" to 10" wheelies. the Frame deal is what is very important to me, I don't want NO TWIST AT ALL, I can not be more stressful on that, twistin frame and yankin front wheels cause waste of time. Yes I'm going to be runnin 10.5's or might go to 225 to 335 drag radial, want to be street legal.

[carmantx]

We set up the suspension, got the pinion angle right, and launches straight and square. tires up 8" or so, settle down quick and get down the track.

Here's the trick in my humble opinion. Your talking about a bunch of mods and power, for 9's.

We have a pump gas, 10.25 compression, hydrolic cam, edelbrock heads, SPX intake and single 950 carb. with a 100 shot of nitrous, ran a 10.24. 10.5 tire and street legal. The new build in the car is similar, but changed cam to a custom grind to work with nitrous or procharger, very similar. Guess I'm saying getting to 9's may not need to cost you $15,000 of custom motor stuff in a Buick.

[gmcgruther]

We set up the suspension, got the pinion angle right, and launches straight and square. tires up 8" or so, settle down quick and get down the track.

Here's the trick in my humble opinion. Your talking about a bunch of mods and power, for 9's.

We have a pump gas, 10.25 compression, hydrolic cam, edelbrock heads, SPX intake and single 950 carb. with a 100 shot of nitrous, ran a 10.24. 10.5 tire and street legal. The new build in the car is similar, but changed cam to a custom grind to work with nitrous or procharger, very similar. Guess I'm saying getting to 9's may not need to cost you $15,000 of custom motor stuff in a Buick.

The custom parts will be used in the Buick are for later on too when we decide to go low eights to possible mid 7's, I want to use drag radials only, I would like to see where I can take this car for speed, I'm sick and tired of chevy's in ford's and vice versa. I want something different. We will be going to a aftermarket block later on and I promise you, I'll be making some discovery's like no other.. I'm going to talk to some people on making a set of tall port high flow heads for the big boy. 525 OR LARGER.

[gmcgruther]

The thing that gets me on you guy's is the flat tappet cam, there is 20 to 30 more ponies going to a roller cam on the same lift.. Yes I know the price is the object but I called L.S.M Engineering Systems and they make custom grinds flat tappet and Roller cams cheaper then anyone, I have used them all the time on my other builds. Trust me they do all sorts of engines, including tractor engines, they know torque.. Has anyone use the valley gridle that Billy Glidden help design? He has done some stock small block ford stuff with the gridle he has help designed and went past 700 hp where without the valley gridles the blocks crack at 500 hp. I up to trying anything to improve and make it cheaper for everyone.