New Spark Plugs and now NOTHING...

**rsvp4sean** · 01-22-2011, 08:29 PM

Got all the elements fixed that needed work. NEW fuel pump...works great...New Carburetor...rebuilt and float now works perfectly. Battery turns the starter and cranks the engine beautifully. New 6v coil from napa and new spark plug wires.BUT now it won't start. It would try to start and run a few seconds on starting fluid before??? The only thing I changed since was the spark plugs. NAPA cross referenced the plugs and I got 8 of these Champion Plugs http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Det...+50008+2008013
Like an idiot....I trusted them and threw the old ones away. Will these work or can you guys recommend ones that you know will work for a 1950 BUICK SUPER manual straight 8? REALLY FRUSTRATED! Thought I was finally going to get it running today instead all I did was run down the battery to nothing.
thanks in advance,
sk

**Bob** · 01-23-2011, 07:55 AM

Did you gap the plugs?

Your going to have to do the basics, spark at the points, spark at the plugs, fuel shots from the accelerator pump.

**Straight Eight** · 01-23-2011, 08:02 AM

Did NAPA sell you wire spark plug wires, or the modern carbon strands?

You need copper spark plug wires, not the modern type. There is not enuff voltage to push its way thru the modern wires, but the copper works perfectly.

Once the wires are corrected, if still no start then go for AC plugs without an R in the number.

Did you put the spark plug cover back on, is it grounding out the plugs because they are too long?

Check back and let us know what you find out.

**rsvp4sean** · 01-24-2011, 08:07 AM

Hey Guys,
So I was following your guys' basic principal that it had to be Battery, Spark or fuel related. So I knew I had power and new fuel supply with new carb. So I took off the NAPA coil (the one without the resistor) BLUE One. Took the old coil and cleaned up all the connections on the coil and to and from it. I also opened up the distributor and cleaned all those connections as well as the points. I turned crossed my fingers and turned the key and sure as @#$! it started within 3 cranks. It smoked pretty good for the first few starts around the manifold area. I don't know it was burning the oil and gas that had spilled over the last few months. But it eventually went away. I filled the radiator and its holding water nicely. Just a few drips from the petcock at the bottom. I do have a few questions for you experts though:

1) Can I easily get a new petcock that doesnt leak. Or can I use plumbers tape or something to seal it off?

2) I am hesitant to let it run more than a minute or two because I'm not convinced its getting the proper oil pressure from the oil pump. Is there a sure fire way to tell that the oil is being pumped up to the oil filter and then up to the lifters etc...? I took off the valve cover and ran it and it wasn't dripping oil everywhere. Is that normal. Is there a steady flow of oil I would see.

Sorry for the lengthy questions, but now that I got it running. I don't wan to ruin it!!!

Thanks for all the help. Its greatly appreciated!

SK

**csimonds** · 01-24-2011, 09:27 AM

Hi SK,
When I picked up my 50 Buick a few months ago it came with an uninstalled electronic ignition (petronix), this was the first thing I changed and it was easy, 20 minutes and done. The car now starts with ease and without hesitation. If the snow and cold weather ever ends here in CT I can finally get some work done!
CHUCK

**Aaron65** · 01-30-2011, 05:53 AM

I'd double check the heat range on those Champions. Champion parts books usually recommend plugs that are about 5 steps hotter than factory--not good. I usually avoid them. This has happened to me on my '53 and my Corvair.

**rsvp4sean** · 01-31-2011, 01:26 PM

Hey guys,
Just wanted to update everyone. I changed the coil and cleaned up all the connections and she fired right up. I backed her out of the driveway for the first time this weekend. So She's starting to look like a car again...just have to add the hood and adjust the fenders.
Thanks for all the help!!
sk

**BentBiker** · 02-04-2011, 01:12 PM

Originally Posted by rsvp4sean

Hey Guys,

2) I am hesitant to let it run more than a minute or two because I'm not convinced its getting the proper oil pressure from the oil pump. Is there a sure fire way to tell that the oil is being pumped up to the oil filter and then up to the lifters etc...? I took off the valve cover and ran it and it wasn't dripping oil everywhere. Is that normal. Is there a steady flow of oil I would see.

SK

There's a lil oil filter cannister just passenger side of the water pump. if you run that L8 for 10 minutes, you should be able to feel that can being warm/hot. That'll tell you if you got oil flow. It's a crummy filter system as most of the oil flow runs right past that filter, but it DOES run off a pressure feed to your rocker assembly. If that's warming up, you got top end oil, and you're probably OK. I will warn you though, it's probably a worthwhile exercise to take the pan off that motor since when I did that here, I found at least 2 inches of sludge and bearing babbitt in the bottom of the pan. Drop it, Clean it, take the sump off the pump and clear that up. only 1 cotter pin to take that sump off... do it.

Other thing you **need* to do is get the valve cover off, and check for a crusty "eyebrow" underneath. Remember most of these engines were running when there was a ton of ash in the oil. Would not surprise me if your return journals were plugged full of baked on crap. I suggest you clean the top end with the pan off, so the junk can just flush through. A few cans of Brake/parts cleaner and a blow gun are your friend.

You should be able to get a replacement oil filter cartridge from Napa pretty easily. There's also a drain plug in the filter can you should open and clean out that tub.

Before you seal up the top end again, LUBE everything with Lucas.... and I mean everything. Pay special attention to your valve stems so you get some lube into your guides, and the top end of the valve stems where the rockers hit. Those ARE hydraulic lifters, and will probably pump up pretty well .. use STRAIGHT SAE 30 weight in that engine. NO DETERGENT or you're bound to plug yourself up, not to mention that most of the seals were never intended to stand up to the additives we have these days.. Just dry off your gasket surfaces well when you're done.

If you don't have oil flow now, the only thing it can be is the pump itself. it's a gear pump, easily accessible from inside the pan, and rebuildable. I rather doubt there's anything wrong with it though, unless you found sand in the pan.