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Thread: Build thread. slow process

  1. #1

    Build thread. slow process

    I am starting this post to document the building of my limited.
    I already introduced myself and the car so here goes.

    I will say this now. this will be a slow process with lack of fund and time.

    so far i just got the car started after sitting for 50+ years. now i am gathering parts to do a 12v conversion along with electronic ignition(pontiac hei) and converting the old 2bbl small bolt pattern to a more modern 2 bbl, funny modern from 1976. but i know this carb works and the original single 2 barrel wont be the one i use. i have a 2 2bbl manifold for the car.

    6/11/10 so i made the adapter yesterday and everything looks good. i will try to get time to fit it onto the car this weekend and take some pictures. i have not found a pontiac hei yet but am still looking. for now i will start the car using the original distributor and 12 volt coil.
    '
    also the valve cover and both my air cleaner assemblies are being bead blasted and will be powder coated hopefully by the end of next week.

    thanks
    ken

  2. #2
    Use a resistor for the + side of the coil or else the points will go out very shortly. I have & can get a mini 12 volt starter also.

    Tom T.
    Tom Telesco
    Classic and Muscle Automotive
    12 Cook St.
    Norwalk, CT 06853-1601
    Day Phone 203-324-6045 ET
    NailHead Mini-Starters '53-'66
    Adjustable Roller Tip Rocker Arms - All NailHeads
    Custom forged pistons
    Front & rear neoprene seals
    Many other "Nail" parts
    "If I can't get it, you don't need it!"

  3. #3
    how much for a 12volt starter? also what kind/ size of resistor?

    Here is a technical question that i guess i should have asked before touching the car.

    is it a positive ground car? someone was saying the positive of the bat should go to ground. and that may be why i couldn't get the starter to work properly.

    also the coil was originally wired with the wire from the distributor to the (+) on the coil when i am used to the negative(-).

    i am pretty sure all the gauges and stuff are shot inside. the have bad bad sun damage. what else do i need to consider in a 12 volt conversion?

    thanks
    ken

  4. #4
    like mentioned in my other post i am pretty sure the gauges are toasted. and i haven't been able to find a descent set of replacements. does someone out there make reproductions or at least ones that may fit? i haven't taken dash apart to figure out sizes.

    also happening soon(next 2 weeks) the interior is coming out and being dropped off at my dads with a giant roll of black vinyl upholestry and he is going to rebuild and recover the seats. and door panels

    woohoo off to a descent start

  5. #5
    Ken - With the 12Volt conversion there is a manual on speedway that really helped me a lot. It's called the "Official 12 volt conversion guide" for $12

    http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Book-T...uide,2867.html

    The gauges need what are called "RUNTZ" (speedway) To drop the voltage and not fry them. Even though they are sun damaged I bet everything but the clock works.

    The Heater! The blower motor needs a ceramic voltage drop (speedway).

    If you are GREAT with electric, these things can be made from parts at Radioshack. Not much cheaper than just buying them.

    The Horn needs to be re wired "in series". Basically ground one and wire the two horns in series.

    The cigarette lighter - This can cause a fire just hitting it once.

    Obviously change all the bulbs to 12V - That guide REALLY helped with that. Gave me conversion #'s. I may have the book laying around in my shop if you want it!! PM me.

    I cant think of anything else right now.

  6. #6
    Do the horns really work when connected in series? I think the horns have like "points", breaking and connecting the circuit to make the diaphragm oscillate. This means that the first horn in series will not supply continous voltage to the latter horn. I may be wrong?

    The ammeter gauge measures current, not voltage, and is happy with 12 volts as is. Oil pressure and temp gauges are mechanical. The clock needs 6 volts, and this can't be done with a ballast resistor - you need a more sophisticated voltage regulator for that one. The heater and defroster blowers need roughly 6 volts, meaning you need a ballast resistor in series with the fan, to drop the voltage. These need to be power resistors, as the resistor will turn the extra voltage and currrent into heat! The directional signal relay needs to be a 12-volt unit. I'm running the 6-volt starter with 12 volts, but I have a 12-volt solenoid on that starter.

    But now it gets interesting. I always thought the gas gauge needs 6 volts, but I recently met a Swedish guy in a car show, who said the gas gauge works fine on 12 volts, and his '46 Super is a living proof! Someone please verify if you have similar experience? I had a voltage regulator operating my gas gauge until the needle came off the shaft, so I can't verify if it works or not
    Last edited by Jyrki; 06-20-2010 at 01:04 PM.

  7. #7

    40 Gauge set

    There are a set of gauges for sale on Ebay at this time. Regarding 12 to 6 volt reduction, Ron Francis Wire works sells two solid state reducers. These are great units as they reduce to exactly 6 volts regardless of the load (as long as you don't exceed their limits) Also for the heater fan go to NAPA store and you can order a 12 volt motor that is the exact size of the current under floor unit. I have been running the 6 volt starter on my 12 volt car with no problem.
    Last edited by presten; 07-04-2010 at 08:56 AM. Reason: Add some information

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Jyrki View Post
    Do the horns really work when connected in series? I think the horns have like "points", breaking and connecting the circuit to make the diaphragm oscillate. This means that the first horn in series will not supply continous voltage to the latter horn. I may be wrong?
    Horns in series don't work too well due to exactly what Jyrki said above. If wired is series, in order for either horn to work, the contacts in BOTH horns need to be closed for any current to flow. They will buzz and make some noise, but it's nowhere near how they sound running on 6 volts. If both horns operated at EXACTLY the same frequency, then series would be OK, but the reason there are more than 1 horn on these old cars is so they can produce a chord, meaning that they need to operate at different frequencies.

  9. #9
    Go to Napa and tell them you need a coil resistor. If they need an application, a 1956 Desoto Fireflite will work.

    6 volt Starter will work on 12v, but mine just gave out after 60 years...

    Horns are twice as loud on 12 volts if wired in parallel!

    Heater works on 12 volts as well its loud though.

    I bought a 12 volt gauge set at Harbor freight and opened up the original Buick gauge and swapped the innards. Can't tell from the outside.

  10. #10

    6 volt to 12 volt

    Good thoughts by "***** of Fire" I have had the same experience on starters on several Chev and GMC engines...you do have to be a bit careful if you need to crank much more than 20 or 30 seconds. Just give things a little time to cool and that starter will last many years. Regarding the horns, the only thing I have had to do on some of them is adjust the screw that controls the gap on the internal switch. Not on all of them but some. As I mentioned, you can almost always find a replacement 12 volt motor for heaters...they tend to be kind of a standard size, bolt spacing and shaft diameter. WW Grainger is another good source of 12 Volt DC motors.

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