electrical work is conceptually very simple. you must ALWAYS have a good conductive path from the positive side of your power supply to the mechanism doing work ( lights, starter, ignition, etc ) and then back to the negative terminal.
the issue with automotive wiring is the shear number of wires involved and the difficulty in getting to them.
No lights, no horn, no radio, ignition does nothing and no indicator lights. The electrical system is dead except for the battery and started solanoid.
this, for instance. do you mean to say that none of this stuff works when the battery is charged up?
then you have an issue with the conductors some place OR the ignition switch in the steering column is shot.
you should be able to run everything in the car off of just the 12v battery. the alt working and the engine running have nothing to do with it ... beyond the obvious fact that you'll kill the battery if you try to run it for a long time without the alternator charging it.
I added a power amp and subwoofer and after I ran it for about 2 hours, and my last stop of the day my car would not start. Not even a click on the starter.
take this; it sounds like you messed up the charging connection from the alternator to the battery ... or the new alt is no good.
you can run a car for some time with the alternator not working at all, and as the battery runs down your lights ( if you've got them on ) will get dimmer. if you don't have lights on, you can run the battery completely dead and not notice the problem until you try to restart the car.
running the starter is the THE most current intensive draw your battery has to deal with. once the engine is turning, the ign circuit is comparably a very small draw.
The way to crush the bourgeoisie is to grind them between the millstones of taxation and inflation.
Vladimir Lenin
Government schooling is about "the perfect organization of the hive."
H.H. Goddard, Human Efficiency (1920)
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