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Thread: brake hoses

  1. #1
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    brake hoses

    I'm trying to remove the rear flex hose on my 63 Skylark,as usual wrenches are slipping.Would heat be safe to use? Are there any real good tubing wrenches.

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    vise-grip trick

    Use a pair of vise-grips and tightly squeeze the ferrule then release, squeeze again on different sides and squeeze on every flat spot then use them to turn it out. Obviously you are going to want to replace the ferrule when done. Best of luck.
    Put An LS1 in it and go!

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    I had this problem. There is a trick to it.

    First off the metal brake lines rust. when moisture gets in between flared pipe and sealing nut it rusts, so rust adds a thicker layer. So you end up with a nut that isn't going to turn until you remove that rust. I would apply rust catalyst or WD-40, let it sit overnight, reapply to rinse of rust. Most times you can't see rust, until you loosen it, and pull nut back.

    You are using to pipe wrenches when loosening lines.
    When you loosen the line, don't turn the 3/8 in. smaller line, only hold it instead, and turn the 5/8 in. side, because it's alot harder to round out the bigger diameter side.

    If you are using Visegrip pliers, use the same method, turn bigger diameter.


    before you fit new line, clean off rust from behind flared line and nut, or else you won't be able to turn it, and may cross thread new line.

    Can you tell use the part# ,price and brand of brake line you are installing.
    Last edited by GL03; 05-22-2010 at 10:49 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GL03 View Post
    [snipped] I would apply rust catalyst or WD-40, let it sit overnight, reapply to rinse of rust.
    Put the WD40 in the back of the cupboard ... PB-Blaster is far superior.
    1964 Canary Yellow Buick LeSabre Convertible - bone stock, approaching 93,000 original miles.
    300ci, aluminum heads, 4bbl, 2spd, A/C, PS, PB

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    A teeny bit off topic; I'm having trouble removing bolts and tubing connectors of the aluminum parts of my 300/tranny.

    My next attempt will be using the propane torch to heat the fitting. that is - unless I get a definite NONO from someone with experience.

    I got a new waterpump, can't get the old one off
    thanks for any suggestiions (I've used all of the penatrating sprays)
    thanks
    Butch

  6. #6
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    loosening a bolt or nut or?

    Frozen bolt or nut, losening in the shop or garage with all access of tools: Use 3/8 in. first , than Air impact, 1/2 in. drive. Composite guns have good power. The hammer effect, does a jerking effect. You can tighten and then loosen, back and forth. Keep in mind that you aren't tightening to strip threads only to cause a movement in threads.

    No air tools, manual tools approach: If you have a nut or bolt that is frozen, you have soaked it in rust catalyst,penetratant,evaporust, or other WD-40 type stuff. You tryed to loosen, but no go, so you try to tighten it, and then loosen it. YOu aren't tightening to strip the threads, what you are trying to do is create movemement within the threads. The back and forth will allow the penetrant to work into threads. You can use a heavy mallet to smack on the wrench to create an air tool impact effect.

    Use a brass drift, and hammer onto bolt head, again to compress bolt,causing a movement within threads. when bolt is tight it's under tension.

    Be patient if you have no rush, rust penetrant will help, use tape end silicone to seal a plastic bag to immerse rusted fitting in penetrant.
    Last edited by GL03; 06-05-2010 at 12:09 AM.

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    I have a good set of tubing wrenches - think I got them online. I been dismanteling a disc brake setup - beating on the wrenches with a resin hammer. lots of rust remover and pen oil.

    tapping on the connector also allows the pen oil to gget down in the threads.

    I prepared ahead to get that water pump off; got a "tap out" set and a tap n die set to renew the threads if they get messed up. - - will tackle that job today.

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