need help cylinder head rmoval

[ben455ss]

hey guys what should i before removing the head, do i need to take off the intake manifold? im a first timer

[mjt]

hey guys what should i before removing the head, do i need to take off the intake manifold? im a first timer

Yep .... intake manifold and most likely, peripheral components,
such as A/C, power steering pump, alternator (I had to on my
64) because those items are bolted to brackets and those brackets
are bolted to the heads.

You'll have to remove associated hoses and wiring, throttle linkages.
You'll have to remove the coil. Disconnect the spark plug wires from
the spark plugs.

Remove the valve covers and remove the rocker arm shaft assembly
(if equipped) or loosen rocker arms if bolted to head and remove
the pushrods.

Remove the exhaust manifolds and pull away from heads.

You'll need to buy an "head gasket kit", which consists of the two
head gaskets, two intake manifold gaskets and front and rear
intake manifold seals, exhaust manifold gaskets, and thermostat
housing gasket.

I HIGHLY RECOMMEND that you take pictures of everything, from
different angles, BEFORE you start taking things apart. I also
recommend that you use masking tape and before taking something
off, such as a hose, label it and where it connects to (on the tape).

I also suggest you replace the thermostat - any time you open up
the top end, you should replace it.

I replaced a blown head gasket (finished today), so I have quite a
few photos of the process if you want them. Also, I recommend you
buy a repair manual showing how to remove the heads.

You didn't mention what year and model you have, but if you specify,
I might have the repair manual and can scan the pages you need
and send them to you.

You should also get some cardboard and make holes to hold the
bolts and pushrods. Label the cardboard and the direction of the
engine, such as an arrow.... <==== front of engine, and make
the holes in the cardboard as the bolts are on the engine/etc. You
do this so the bolts and pushrods go back in the same holes.

[WildKitty]

You "CAN" rebuild the heads on a 455 leaving the exhause manifold attached - it's heavy as He11 tho.

yup, pics and masking tape lable are priceless!!

Read all the threads about problems and rebuilds on the forum.

25-$40 spent on a book or CD will save you tons of time and answer your lay questions.
Butch

[stoneshrink]

Big muscles, those heads are not light - so do take the manifolds off (if you can, and anything else you possibly can..... and the intake weighs a bunch as well.....

[WildKitty]

Ben, ya didn't say WHY you were removing the heads..
if they're off to rebuild, then, of course, you should remove the exhaust manifold and clean up the exhaust ports.

I've got a bad back, so I'm a believer in using a cherry picker to do all my lifting.

good luck on whatever yur doing.

If the 300 runs smooth, I'm gonna sell the 455 to pay for the LeSabre's new interior. Going over to the shop tomorrow and see how the body work is progressing.

[ben455ss]

well it has a blown head gasket and i need to do it myself by the way the head are now out but i just got i nice luck a 455 1973 with the tranny and evrything for 450$ so i m gonna put this engine in and rebuild the 76 i hope the 73 gonna put more power .can i change the distributor from my 76 on the 73 are the carb better? any help and pic would be great

[WildKitty]

WOW, I paid $1,000 for my 455, with tranny - it only had 30Kmiles on a rebuild. it's a 73 also.
I have it strapped to a flat trailer. got her fired up.
average compression; 150 on all cylinders
40-50lbs oil pressure
steady 20 lbs of vacuum

I just think the mpg will be so bad, it would be cost prohibitive to drive it across the country like I want to in Sept.

I already had the saddle tank planned for the LeSabre so I'm going ahead with that. With the 300, I should get 600 miles between fillups.

What carb is on the 76 and which one on the 76?

I'd fire up the 73 before going thru the droppin it in and then finding a problem.

do be careful about setting it on the front of the oil pan - there's very little clearance inside (found this out the hard way) and any small dent will cause the rods to touch.

DO check the torque on the head bolts before you fire it up if it has set for some time.

set your chank at TDC (top dead center) on #1 and mark where your distributor is BEFORE you remove it.

You can do a compression check with it just sitting on the floor - just put it in nuetral and turn it over jumping the starter with a battery. You don't need anything run with "fan" belts attached. it's not going to fire (remove the dist cap) - DO mark your spark plug wires and leave them in the dist cap. You don't need any water innit.

check your local auto parts store to see if the distributors are swappable.

I think you can find carb info using Google (Wikiup site) will give you the cfm of each carb. then just look at the throttle body gasket - check out real good the linkage.

again good luck
Butch