How does one remove a 1957 Buick Ignition Lock assembly from the dash?

[BornBuick]

I have no keys, and need to remove the ignition from the dash so I can take it to the Lock Smith so he can make a set for me. Has anyone out in Buick land ever actually done this procedure. Would like to know of any special tools needed, or ways to go about it first since the car is not at my shop.

Perhaps someone could kinda walk me through it. The flanged bezel encompases the key head and there is no holes like on the older buicks. I would assume the approach would be from behind the dash bezel. I have heard that the rear is covered by a bakelite plate. Just don't know everything involved to successfully remove it in the least painful way.

If you do let me know.

Thanks in advance.

David

[BornBuick]

I ended up taking out the driver's side door lock and made a key from that.
Turns out and I confirm that a 1957 Buick's Lock system is based on the one key fits all locks premise. After making the key and reinstalling the door lock I tried the ignition and the key worked. I then tried the glove box and that worked too. By the way, the lock smith's books indicated that one key would be for the door and ignition and another different key for the glove box and trunk. He and his book apparently are wrong as my car was bought from the original owner and doubt if the locks were keyed for the same key use. Perhaps this 2-key / 2- lock system started after 1960?

I would have tried the trunk but I have no trunk lock. However getting a trunk lock mechanism installed is in the works. I will have the tumblers keyed to match my other existing locks.

Afterwards and upon examination of the ignition face, it appears it too has a small hole near the 5:00 o' clock position. The lock smith told me that you can get the cylinder out if you turn the ignition to off and insert a round pick this will release the lock cylinder. Of course if you have no key turning it to off is a mute point. Then you have to pick the tumblers in the lock so you can get the cylinder to move over to the off position.

I am writing this so perhaps it may help someone with a 1957 Buick Ignition or Key issue in the future for reference.

David

[OOPSETTER1]

Hi David,
I can't help you with removing your ignition switch, but I can tell you that my 1963 LeSabre is still "one key fits everything". I don't know how much later than 1963 that went, though. One nice little feature about my LeSabre is that you can remove the key while the key is in the "on" or "off" position, enabling you to remove it while driving if you need your passenger to unlock the glove box and drag out a map or something as you drive. And, apparently as you know, if you don't turn the switch to the "lock" position, you (or anyone!) can start and drive the car without a key by merely turning the outer part of the switch.

[39CENT]

as I recall you might have a little hole on the face of the keylock. Get a paperclip straighten it out. Then put in your key and stick the end of the ppclip into the keylock hole and that should release it, so you can pull the keylock assembly out.

[BornBuick]

Yeah that paper clip thing works "if" you have the key in and turned to the "off" position. I did not have any keys so I took out the driver's door handle which has the lock inside of it.

Yeah the ability to remove the keys and just use the off position goes back a ways. I had a 1949 that would do that. i think the logic of this went on to 1963. Then in 1964 the lock was just the insert type in the dash with no mold print to turn the lock without the key in it. Don't really know why that was a feature for so long. Of course that was back in the day when you rarely had to lock things up as a rule.

David

[OOPSETTER1]

Yeah the ability to remove the keys and just use the off position goes back a ways. I had a 1949 that would do that.

You're right! My '49 Super used to be that way, but the ignition switch was changed when it was converted to a 12 volt system, and has to be started with the switch rather than the accelerator pedal start system.

[BornBuick]

Nice 49. I love these Buicks. Convert it back to the foot switch just for me will ya?

David
I love things just the way they were and drive them just the way they are.

[OOPSETTER1]

I agree, I like to see them as original as possible. Unfortunately, my '49 was changed to a 12 volt system before I got it. They told me when I bought the car that they couldn't use the original starting set-up with 12 volts, I don't know. It "looks" original under the hood anyhow, it's got a 12 volt generator from a '56 Cadillac, which looks identical to the old 6 volt generator that had been on it.

[BornBuick]

Well I believe they kept the foot starter setup through 1958. So you can get a carb dash pod and switch from any 53 to 58 and make it work. I believe the 1953 straight eight special, the last year of the straight eights was 12 volt just like Buicks first V8 in 1953 as installed in all Supers and Road Masters. Check it out. I had a 1949 Super Sedanette back in high school in really good condition. My neighbor had got it from a relative and drove it back and forth to work for about a year. Then it sat for about a year up and way back in his driveway. One day I got the nerve to go talk to him about it. I was 15 or 16 and wanted the car. He said it did not run, but if I could get it started and going it was mine. Well my best friend and I worked on it. Rather he held the tools for me and I got it going. I took the plugs out and cleaned them. Took the carburetor apart and cleaned it as well. Took the fuel pump apart and cleaned that too. I filed the points clean put everything back in. It started right up.

Well, enjoy it is a grand car.

David

[suntreemcanic]

If you look at the wiring diagrams for foot starts the electricity is sent to the "carb dash pod" by turning on the ignition switch. The "carb dash pod" senses vacuumb. If the engine is not running there will be no vacuumb and the "pod" is closed and when you mash the accelerator there will be continuity between the ignition switch and the starter solenoid and the startor will engage. Once the engine starts there is vacuumb to the carb dash pod and it becomes "open," there is no more continuity. That is why you can floor the accelerator when you are driving and the startor does not engage.

Along that same line of thinking the carb dash pod does not "care" if you are running 6 volts or 12 volts, it is a normally closed switch operated by vacuumb. If you convert from 6 to 12 volts your foot start will work just fine. I have been using mine for 25 years on 12 volts.

The 6 volt starter will work great because on 12 volts it turns the motor over much faster. The reason you do not have to worry about burning up a 6 volt starter on 12 volts is because 6 volts starters are wound with much larger diameter windings because it requires twice as many amps to turn the engine over with six volts as 12 volts (Ohms Law). So actually when you convert to 12 volts you are only "pushing" half the amps through the starter to accomplish the same work of 6 volts. Amps are what make heat in a starter.

Hope this helps some of the misconceptions about 12 volt conversions.