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- Carter Dual 4-Barrel Carburetor Idle Adjustment
- Carter Dual 4-Barrel Carburetor Adjustment
- Carter Dual 4-barrel Carburetors, Linkage Sticking
- Buick Cam Specifications for 401 and 425 nailheads
- Buick Cams from Kenne Bell, 401, 425
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Thread: '64 Riv timing specs

  1. #1

    '64 Riv timing specs

    Hi guys,
    I just had my '64 Riv. 425 cu. in. rebuilt. Off the line acceleration isn't where I think it should be (at least not what I remember from when I was in high school driving this car that then belonged to my grandfather).

    Need help with timing specs.

    Need any advice you guys can give regarding tune, timing, etc. to maximize performance with this all stock nailhead.

    Thanks,
    Jon

  2. #2
    Jon,

    The factory distributor for a single 4 barrel carb should have 15' of timing- that would be 30' as you measure it on the crank with 2-1/2' initial advance, and "all in" at 32'. I recall you should be able to get about 20' of vacuum.

    Check for vacuum leaks! Those old hoses do have a service life that has long surpassed! If you haven't replaced them yet... go for it. I think you (and your grandfather) got your moneys worth.

    Check your points (if you haven't yet converted to electronic) Gap should be .016. and replace all your typical tune-up stuff... Plugs, wires, cap & rotor. I would have thunk these would be normal items to replace at a rebuild but just checking... Plugs gapped at .032. Speaking of which... what kind of plugs are you running? Pull your plugs and check if you have any that are wet or fouled etc... Are you misfiring or running rough or just a general lack of power?

    There could be a lot of other things at play here, but want to answer your question first. Here are some other thoughts to bounce off you...

    Did the engine get "broke in" correctly (piston rings not sealing, wiped out cam)
    What cam was used in the rebuild? (something different than what Grandpa had in it or thought he had in it?)
    Did the carb get rebuilt? Perhaps it's due. Even just a good cleaning can make a BIG difference! Old gas that sits in them can laquer them up even in a short order.

    Erik
    _________________
    ROA 11755
    65 Riviera GS
    Black/Black (restore in process)
    See dyno break-in run here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xuIKyzct4Sc
    See first dyno pull after overhaul here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TWGYfCwEvO8

    86 LX Police Interceptor (SS) 5.0 Mustang
    (wifes drag car)

  3. #3
    Here's a bit from the reference section:

    http://www.teambuick.com/reference/engine_timing.php


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  4. #4
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    Nice article bob!

    Jon, the dual quad cars used a different distributor with more advance at idle. This gave the engine more low-rpm power.
    In the article, Bob advised installing a brass bushing on the limit pin. Give that a try. Run the engine and adjust timing so maximum advance at 3000 rpm (vacuum advance disconnected) is 30-32 degrees. Then see where timing is at idle(initial timing)....hopefully it'll be 6-12* BTDC if the bushing size is correct.
    Another option is to install a distributor from a 63-earlier car with a Dynaflow trans, those distributors already had the dual quad timing curve.
    If the above doesn't improve performance, the next step would be to add lighter advance springs from an advance curve kit. They'll bring the advance in faster. If you go too fast, the engine may ping. Be careful.
    Adjusting the distributor for a quick timing advance was one of the best mods I did on my GS....the first test run made me say WOW!, there was that much of a difference.

    If the timing mods don't do it, you may be able to advance the camshaft a few degrees for more bottom-end power. Mopar offset woodruff keys fit our Nailheads.
    Hope you get it sorted out.
    Walt
    65-66 GS's

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