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Thread: Valve adjustment, 263, synchromesh

  1. #1

    Valve adjustment, 263, synchromesh

    So I've got the head back on the 52 special, and it's got all new valves, guides and springs. While the rocker assy was off I cleaned it up as well.

    What is the procedure for adjusting the valve lash before initial start up. I read the article in the team buick reference section, and my manual. Both seem to be for fine tuning a set up motor. How do I get it close enough to start?
    scott

  2. #2
    I forgot to mention... solid lifters.
    scott

  3. #3
    You should just follow the instructions without the warm up, then when you are warmed up, do it again. For initial adjustment and for while breaking in a cam etc, better loose than tight.

    http://www.teambuick.com/reference/l.../files/2-d.pdf


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  4. #4
    I was under the impression I needed to make an initial adjustment to rough them in before I ever started the motor, in case some are too tight. I was planning on turning the motor by hand and making adjustments, so I was looking for tips on when to adjust which valve setting.

    I found this post by Jim Carmichael in another thread and was wondering if anyone had tried it...



    "Warm up the engine then shut it off and adjust the valves with the engine stopped.

    Write down the firing order with the first 4 cylinders over the last 4 then look at the first cylinder on the bottom row and rotate the engine by hand using a socket on the crank pully bolt until that cylinder's valves are "on the rock" (one valve just closes and the other just starts to open)

    When this cylinder is "on the rock" the first cylinder on the top row is ready to have both intake and exhaust valves adjusted as they will be on the cam's base circle. Repeat this for the rest of the cylinders following the firing order.

    This works well on all engines and lifters but to find 0 lash on hydraulic lifters you need to spin the push rod so you can feel "0" easily then tighten the required amount past zero (usually 1/2 turn works best) "



    Firing order is... 1-6-2-5-8-3-7-4
    So I guess you line it up like...
    1-6-2-5
    8-3-7-4

    Then when 1 is on "the rock" you adjust the valves on 8, and when 8 is on "the rock" you adjust the valves on 1? Is this right?
    scott

  5. #5
    By the way Bob... do you have the whole 1952 shop manual scanned and on file? If so could you post or email me the index? My shop manual only came with every other page of the index and as you could imagine, it can be terribly frustrating.
    scott

  6. #6

    Valve adjustment 263 Syncro-mesh

    The procedure will work for you, BUT don't try to warm it up until you make the initial setting he described. I'd go a little looser feeler gauge setting than 15 thousanths for the cold initial setting, then start, warm up per instructions, and reset after a thorough warm up per the manual. There is a index for your manual available under this website. Check the references.

  7. #7
    The whole manual is available in the "Reference" section under "Library". You can print out what you need.


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  8. #8
    Join Date
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    Solid Lifter Adjustments

    Chub Chub, the Roadmaster is 15 thousandths hot. If you adjust then to .015 cold, as the engine warms up. The valve lash increases ( gets bigger). So don't worry at .015 at the first start up, Anthony
    Last edited by Straight80; 08-30-2009 at 01:55 PM.
    1948
    Buick Roadmaster
    Model 76S
    Anthony
    aka Straight80

  9. #9
    After putting everything back together with the new valves, springs ect., there is no gap at all while cold. To get the .017 feeler gauge to go through, I have to adjust each ball stud about 1.5 turn. I guess this could be due to having new inner and outer springs with more tension or "spring" to them.
    scott

  10. #10
    I expect you had the valves ground or faced. That would raise the stems and reduce or eliminate any space that there was.


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