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Thread: 62 Invicta transmission repair

  1. #1

    62 Invicta transmission repair

    As discussed a few months back (in this thread: http://www.teambuick.com/forums/show...9482#post59482) it appears that I need to replace my front seal. I had someone that was going to help me with this but he moved away, so I'm thinking of tackling the job on my own. I've done minor work on the car before (and on others) and there's no rush, so what's the worst that can happen?

    Can anyone give me a quick synopsis of what I'll need to do to remove the transmission? Is this possible in a garage using jack stands or ramps?

    Thanks in advance for your help!

  2. #2
    Sooo I took a look under the car and it doesn't seem that difficult to do. Everything seems easy enough to get to. This is what I'm assuming:

    1. Disconnect cooling lines
    2. Disconnect shifter and parking brake release (both cotter pins)
    3. Remove dipstick
    4. Remove speedometer cable
    5. Remove torque converter shield
    6. Remove driveshaft bolts
    7. Remove bolts that hold bellhousing to engine
    8. Place jack under tranny
    9. Remove crossmember bolts
    10. Drop front of transmission, move forward to prevent damage to splines

    Any other tips? I've been told the issue is the front pump seal. Can I do this myself? Is there anything else I should do while the tranny is out?

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    dont forget the torque converter bolts.

    I am not trying to scare you but i did this to my 62 lesabre and when i pulled off the torqueconverter parts of the pump fell out. The local been around forever transhop wants 1800 to rebuild the transe and converter.
    I am now going to a 400. I would recomend that if the leak is not to bad leave well enough allone unless you can afford to replace the transe if you have this problem
    1962 Lesabre 4 door seadan
    2007 honda element (at least its american made by UAW workers in East Liberty OH)
    09 Chevy AVEO (100% percent korean assembled, 70% korean parts, 1% usa and canada parts,) Which one is the domestic again i am confused?

  4. #4
    Thanks for the feedback.

    The leak is bad, it'd lose all fluid within 10 minutes if I drove it. $1800 sounds like a lot! Did you look around for a replacement? Why did it need a complete rebuild?

    I'd like to upgrade but don't want to change the shifter pattern and haven't seen any 400's with the (PND12R) sequence that my car has.

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    REPLACMENT DYNAFLOW NOT TOO EASY TO FIND AND A 400 SEAMS ALOT CHEEPER IN THE LONG RUN. I WAS CONCERNED THAT THE SPRINGS AND PLUNGERS THAT CAME OUT OF THE PUMP WENT IN THE TRANSE. WHY REBUILD THE TORQUE CONVERTER AND NOT THE TRANS?? JUST DIDNT MAKE SENSE TO ME AND I AM NOT CONCERED ABOUT THE SHIFT PATTERN
    1962 Lesabre 4 door seadan
    2007 honda element (at least its american made by UAW workers in East Liberty OH)
    09 Chevy AVEO (100% percent korean assembled, 70% korean parts, 1% usa and canada parts,) Which one is the domestic again i am confused?

  6. #6
    With the tranny out, I'm considering going with a 400 now too. I found one from a 1965 Wildcat. Will that work? What else will I need?

    Thanks in advance for the help! Hope your project is going well.

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    driveshaft yoke, crossmember, shift linkage, starter, flywheel, torque converter, crank adapter bushing, and a little fabrication should do it i plan on doing this soon to my 62
    1962 Lesabre 4 door seadan
    2007 honda element (at least its american made by UAW workers in East Liberty OH)
    09 Chevy AVEO (100% percent korean assembled, 70% korean parts, 1% usa and canada parts,) Which one is the domestic again i am confused?

  8. #8
    Gas pedal, linkage, bolts, etc. for such. All wiring, switches & brackets for the switch-pitch, down-shift & to top it off the carb. also as it has the proper hook-up spots for the switch-pitch & downshift switches. And don't forget the micro switch that's also attached to the throttle linkage & associated wiring. This is mainly a bolt-in swap as you are mainly removing & replacing parts. You will need an adapter for the rear of the crank to go from DynaFlow to TH400. Probably be best to get the entire drive-shaft while your at it. Better to have too many parts than not enough. Maybe just buy the whole car if the $$$$ are reasonable then you may be able to make up for what you spent on the car & the parts are free!!!
    Tom Telesco
    Classic and Muscle Automotive
    12 Cook St.
    Norwalk, CT 06853-1601
    Day Phone 203-324-6045 ET
    NailHead Mini-Starters '53-'66
    Adjustable Roller Tip Rocker Arms - All NailHeads
    Custom forged pistons
    Front & rear neoprene seals
    Many other "Nail" parts
    "If I can't get it, you don't need it!"

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