Very EASY wiring question. Promise!

**Spatacuulous** · 06-21-2009, 07:04 PM

Converting from 6-12v.

The alternator is internally regulated. No need for the external reg any longer right? What do I do with the 3 wires connected to the original regulator? Ive labeled them to make it easier.

Thanks,

Frank

**Spatacuulous** · 06-21-2009, 07:06 PM

Converting from 6-12v.

The alternator is internally regulated. No need for the external reg any longer right? What do I do with the 3 wires connected to the original regulator? Ive labeled them to make it easier.

Thanks,

Here is a link to the photo of the regulator for easier identification

http://www.teambuick.com/forums/atta...4&d=1245636253

**njlimbaugh** · 06-21-2009, 07:28 PM

If you still use the gas pedal starter switch, you will need to bypass it and install a starter button on the dash. Part of the pedal switch circuit is a ground through the generator which you will no longer be able to use. (One of you guys may have figured out a way around this, but I'm not smart enough to do that. I'm open to suggestions!) Simply disconnect the two wires connected to the starter switch on the carburetor and reconnect them to a pushbutton. The middle wire (marked 'generator') on your regulator now needs to be grounded to the block. The bottom wire (marked 'field') can be discarded. The top wire (marked 'battery') must be connected to the wire on your alternator. Remember to disconnect your battery before doing any electrical work on the car.

**Spatacuulous** · 06-22-2009, 05:11 AM

from "The official 12-volt conversion guide"

BUICK CARS WITH GAS PEDAL STARTERS

"the yellow exciter wire from the DA plug connects to the HOT side of the brake light switch. The BATTERY wire from the old regulator connects to the 10/32 stud at the back of the alternator.

Finally...the wire that was located on the armature terminal of the regulator was also connected to the number (3) terminal of the starter solenoid. GROUND this number (3) wire at the regulator end. This should make things work as they did before. "

Im confused!!!

**njlimbaugh** · 06-22-2009, 06:28 AM

You're confused because I gave you instructions for a one-wire alternator as I installed in my 1940 Super. The instructions you have in your last post are for a 3-wire alternator. If that's what you installed forget my instructions.

**Bob** · 06-22-2009, 07:06 AM

Maybe this will help a bit...
http://www.buicks.net/techref/ftecref14.html

**OOPSETTER1** · 06-22-2009, 07:36 AM

On my '49 Super, I'm running a generator from a 1956 Cadillac to convert to 12 volts, and a voltage regulator for the Cadillac as well. Also installed a new ignition switch rather than using a starter button.

**Spatacuulous** · 06-22-2009, 07:56 AM

Originally Posted by Bob

Maybe this will help a bit...
http://www.buicks.net/techref/ftecref14.html

Unfortunately, this link refers to four wire regulators and it is not helpful for a 40's application. For the 60's it's perfect, but not for me.

The wires on the original regulator are labeled (top to bottom)

1. BATT 2. GEN 3. "F"

Heres what to do: Jump the BATT and GEN terminals on the original voltage regulator. LEAVE the field wire alone. Now we have a thick(er) wire running from the GEN terminal on the regulator down to the alternator, or where the generator used to be. Connect this wire to the 10/32" stud on the back of the alternator.

The DA plug has two wires. One yellow and one red. The RED also goes to the 10/32" stud. The yellow is for keyed HOT (only hot with the key on) like the + side of the ignition coil or the pos side of the brake light switch.

ALL DONE