48 Dynaflow Radiator

**Straight80** · 05-13-2009, 12:36 PM

Does anyone have, and wants to sell a radiator for 48 Roadmaster, for a Dynaflow Transmission. I just put a new engine in my 48, and I'm thinking of doing a re-core on my radiator. But before I do that, I'd like to see if I could find a used tubed radiator, and re-core that. My Buick is a 3 speed, and it has those honeycomb type cores. While the Dynaflow radiator is a little larger and is a tubed radiator. It's OK if the radiator you have needs a new core, because I plan on re-coring it anyway. My Buick doesn't overheat, it just runs a high normal when the ambient temperature is 90 degrees. I'd say it runs at 210, and I don't care for that, but at 60 and 70 degrees it runs right around 180. So I believe I need a new core. Any replies are welcome, thanking you in advance.
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**njlimbaugh** · 05-13-2009, 03:29 PM

Have you checked your pressure cap?

**Straight Eight** · 05-14-2009, 07:14 AM

Why not just recore your radiator with a tubed core? Maybe even increase the number of rows for better cooling?

**Straight80** · 05-15-2009, 06:06 PM

Well the other day I called a local radiator shop. This placed has been around for many years. They still rod the cores out,and clean with whatever they use to clean them. To clean the core is $90.00. To replace the core with a tubed core for the tanks I have is $880.00!!!!! WOW!! My radiator is not a tubed core radiator, I can't tell you the proper name of the core. But it's made the same way the original heater cores were made, if you know what I'm talking about. I don't know for sure if my radiator is for a Roadmaster? The core itself is 3" thick, 18 1/2" wide, and 22 1/2" tall. My brothers radiator in his Roadmaster Dynaflow is 3 1/2" thick, 19" wide,23" tall. In 1976, I had my radiator re-cored. It was better, but not what I expected. Now that I put this new motor in my Buick, it has more compression and generates more heat. I have no idea if my radiator came from a Super, because it's not doing it's job as far as I'm concerned. The cap is new, the thermostat is new, at 60 or 70 degrees it's OK. After that it's not doing it's job. I have a laser thermometer, and I know it works for sure. The coolant going into the radiator is around 212 degrees, the coolant coming out is 160 degrees. But there's not enough coolant in the radiator to satisfy the engine. The thermostat is staying open, what good is that? If climb a good hill at 65MPH it runs aroun 200 degrees, coming down the same hill at 65MPH it runs around 180 degrees. Any suggestions??????

**Straight80** · 05-15-2009, 06:18 PM

Originally Posted by Straight Eight

Why not just recore your radiator with a tubed core? Maybe even increase the number of rows for better cooling?

Straight Eight, can you measure the core in your Buick, and let me know what size it is? I would appreciate it. Your Buick is a Super, am I correct? Thanking you in advance

**SuperST8** · 05-15-2009, 07:11 PM

Have you checked for hot spots on the block,could have some blockege in the block.????

**Straight Eight** · 05-16-2009, 02:12 PM

I have a 47 Super and as best as I can measure just the core Its 2 1/2 inches deep, and 22 3/4 tall, 15 1/2 wide. Overall the tank is 4 inches wide at the top by the cap.

**Straight80** · 05-17-2009, 03:59 AM

I'm going to check each cylinder on the drivers side with my laser. I can also check the exhaust port for each cylinder as well at a low idle. Thank you for the radiator measurements Straight Eight. I don't know how long this new engine sat after it was rebuilt. I'm beginning to think I have piston rings that are (stuck/frozen) not cooperating causing the extra and unnecessary friction that's generating my heat problem. Either way I'll find it!