98 Park Ave Rear Shocks

[Gray Whiskers]

I would like to replace them with a different kind other then the stock air ride shocks. Anyone use a diffrenet set up? Thanks.

[OOPSETTER1]

I would like to replace them with a different kind other then the stock air ride shocks. Anyone use a diffrenet set up? Thanks.

I simply put AC Delco non-air struts on the rear of my '93 Park Avenue, and disabled the air compressor. It works well, and I'm very satisfied with the ride.

[bobc455]

The non-air-ride shocks can be installed in their place. Just remove the air compressor and you'll be fine.

Frankly I have no idea why anyone buys air ride anyhow.

[Gray Whiskers]

Thanks for the info. I'll take one off and go to auto parts store and see what they have to fit.

[BigRivy]

I've got a '94 Park Ave and I looked into this same thing. I went with replacing the stock units and keeping the load leveling system. There was no money to be saved by switching to another system. If you just put regular shocks on it and load some kids and their stuff or load up the trunk it will drag the rear end bad. The springs will not hold the weight by themselves. If you drive around by yourself all the time and never put much in the trunk you may get by. If your compressor still works I'd just buy the replacement air shocks. This system is not hard to work with, even if you have to repair a line it's not that difficult. All the stuff is readily available at most parts stores. Granted I'm in the car business, but I had my car on the lift less than an hour to do this job. Bobc455 I wouldn't search out this feature on a car I was interested in but as long as it's already on the car I wouldn't tear it out like it's a bunch of 70's emission's equipment. The car with this system rides great and if you load it up with a bunch of stuff, as I occasionally do, this system will keep the ride height even and the ride quality doesn't change. That means nobody is flashing their lights at me at night because they think my lights are on high beam when it's just my car dragging the rear end. My car is pushing 260,000 and besides replacing the rear shocks about 40,000 miles ago the system has worked like a dream.

[bobc455]

That is a good point, thanks for pointing it out.

If you remove the air ride, your suspension may sag (since it has springs designed to be supplemented by the air ride).

-Bob C.

[OOPSETTER1]

I haven't needed to haul anything extremely heavy in the trunk of my PA yet, but I have driven it several hundred miles with fishing equpment (big tackle boxes, coolers, rods, chairs, etc.) in the trunk, and my car still remained level. I didn't notice any difference in ride quality either. The air system has been disabled on my Roadmaster as well, and regular rear shocks installed, and it performs well and rides like a dream. Your decision should be made based on how you use your car I suppose. I do not tow anything, nor carry heavy loads in the trunk, so disabling the Dynaride was the right choice for me when the original shocks needed to be replaced.

[GRyckman]

I'm changing my rear struts for first time on my 93 Buick P/A Ultra. The mechanics I've chatted with say Buick has had mucho problems with the air leveling systems so they recommend changing out with mechanical coil spring loaded struts (NON-AIR). I'm taking the recommendation as my air compressor on-board starts up even when car is off and has run down my battery in past. Disconnect the electrical connection at the pump under the hood & that problem is solved. I'm having a helluva time though getting the rusted on bolts and cap nuts off the struts at the wheel though: got any tricks on that one?

I would like to replace them with a different kind other then the stock air ride shocks. Anyone use a diffrenet set up? Thanks.

[abe]

I've replaced the rear air struts on my '91 PA twice on the left side, and 3x on the right. Bought Gabriel replacements at Autozone, lifetime warranty. The nuts and bolts on the bottom of the unit, where it bolts onto the wheal bearing housing, are a ****** the first time. I used a 3/4 breaker bar to get them loose. Use penetrating oil liberally. I did not use any heat, but if a guy was careful I don't see why not. If you use heat to get the nuts red hot, then I would use new nuts and bolts because you will have distorted the temper in the steel in both the nuts and bolts. Back to the lifetime warranty at autozone, the right strut gave out about a year ago (same old symptom----leaking air around the rubber) so I went to Azone to get the replacement, and I could not get the Gabriels anymore. Azone switched companies, and the new strut was longer in length, I recall about 2 inches longer. I thought it would make a difference, but it didn't. The car sits level in all directions, and still rides like a new one. One more thing: when you replace your struts, consider replacing the upper mount also. I didn't do that the first or second time around, but I did on this last time. Those mounts wear out too, and make a thumping noise if they are worn. I would keep the air ride because as one person said if you put anybody in the back seat the rear end of the car will drag. I can tell you right now he's right. Another guy said his compressor ran the battery down because it ran so much. I would say you have a major air leak--probably an air hose. Find it and fix it. It's not a complicated system at all.
abe

[argh]

Why not buy the Monroe MA822 Max-Air Adjustable Shock and plug it right into the existing air system?

I kinda need to know if this is a bad idea since I did it last night!