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Thread: closed to open driveline?

  1. #1

    closed to open driveline?

    Is this a simple swap, just requiring new U-joints? Or a little more detailed? I will be swapping my rear with a mid 90's thunderbird rear end with ind. suspension, 3.25 gears and disc brakes. I haven't looked at the tranny end yet to see how the shaft bolts to that.

  2. #2

    Swap drive line

    We are pretty good at answering questions, but it would help if we knew which cars are envolved, year, trans, car series etc.

    In generalities if you have a torque tube (closed driveshaft) car, it will take a great deal of work as rear suspension and axle will be changed.

  3. #3
    Sorry..., 1955 Buick Special, 4 door hardtop, 322 nailhead, Dynaflow tranny, stock rear is being replaced with modern components, white interior, rust exterior, fuel provided by a hope and a prayer....

    Basically, I need to replace the rear end since I can't find any parts for it up here, and it would be great to be able to stop a vehicle that weighs over 2 tons fairly quickly. 55 was the last year for those 'knee shocks' (correct term?) and so I will be replacing the entire rear assembly.

  4. #4
    "...I can't find any parts for it up here"

    You should be able to get whatever you need via the mail from the various Buick suppliers. It may cost more at first, but IMHO you will wind up better off in the end.

  5. #5
    Funny thing with getting parts across the border... Fir$t I pay for item$ (plus a $mall exchange rate), the $hipping co$t$ have all gone up in the la$t 6 month$ to almo$t double what they were. When it hit$ the border, my gov. decide$ that they al$o de$erve a $hare. Then there is al$o the brokerage fee$ involved. This is assuming that I get shipped the correct part. What a royal pain in the a$$.
    Plus you are dealing in 50+ year old technology. That was good enough to stop in 1950-60 North America when there were less vehicles on the road and people actually believed your car must stay between the lines. As an ex-firefighter, I believe that the ability to stop as quickly as possible outweighs the ability to peel all 3/4 inches of rubber in 5 seconds.

    All of the above, plus I'm scottish

  6. #6
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    55 rear end

    Its not a simple swap. it can be done, but its a lotta work installing an open driveline in your buick. 'Jyrki,s buick site' in google and in this site, He has done it to his 48 buick, which is basically the same as a 55'.The stock rear brakes on your 55 are the same as those still being used on cars today, and parts are available. If you can find a complete R/End up your way, [you can use any dynaflow gears if not the whole R/E.] They are strong, and should be able to find something in hemmings magazine, e bay, wrecking yards, or the internet. The dynaflow trans was made almost exclusively for buicks, except for a period in 1953 or so when GM,s hydramatic plant burned down. They made open drive dynaflows for Olds,Cadillacs, and Pontiacs, they are very hard to find today. If you got a later model nailhead engine and trans [like 1961 to 66, which is an open drive setup.and installed leaf springs you could use most any open drive rear end if you had to.

  7. #7

    closed to open driveshaft

    The swap that you are proposing is a huge undertaking. Unless you are a very talented fabricator and have a burning passion for making this work, you had better go a different route. I've changed to open driveshaft 2 different ways on 2 different Buicks, so I know what I'm saying. Tracking down anther '52 type Buick rearend is by far your best and cheapest option, and as for the brakes, you can lock up your wheels with the stockers, so how much more do you need? As for new brake parts and new lever-action shocks, check with Kanter auto parts in New Jersey. I've had great luck with them.

  8. #8
    question: what rear ends interchange? im up in north eastern ohio and a long time friend of my family would really appreciate your business if you decide to stay stock. local salvage yard has a few buicks that may be able to work with your car for probably a lot less than the money and aggravation involved in swapping out the rear ends. secondly... i wouldnt trust anything less than a truck rear with the weight of a '55 buick if you must go new. some deep intuition tells me a '90s t-bird rear wasnt made to handle the weight

  9. #9
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    open drivelines

    histobuf, and resto, your answer for the most bang less buck, is in histo,s answer in todays 'new posts'. get a whole later model donor car and swap the old bu' bod onto the later chassis Thats the most inexpensive way to go. Find a chassis thats about the same length, and measure it out. Its outta the resto realm, but ya gots all the parts, fitment, and amenities, for lo bucks!

  10. #10

    convert the stocker

    Why can't the stock rear end be converted to open? It's been done a brizilion times on the Ford t-tube rears. Split the wishbone and toss the tube make a new shaft and a little machine work to get a u joint style yoke on the rear. Seems to me it's an option for those wanting to go to a later engine-trans combo. Has anyone ever done it this way?

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