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Thread: Electric fan

  1. #11
    I got my original 4-core radiator fixed (they said it was better than the "new" one I bought), and am going back to the original.

    I think as bobc455 says, going with the stock mechanical (1/2" from shroud and 1/2 in the shroud, may allow me to use the Zirgo ZFB16S, too.

    Or I could go back to the flex-fan from Summit--with thicker pitched fins. The electric puller will not fir with the 2"spacer.

    No one can give me an answer (even TA)about the cooling demands of a mostly stock'73 Riv GS.

    One thing I've noticed is my new 12-SI 94-amp alternator case is burning hot after a drive. I have my fan wired either to be completely on or off. I'm looking for a thermostatic control. Even my new 75 amp relay is warm to to the touch. Zirgo said that fan may use 25 amps continuously. my wiring is sufficient. 4 gauge from alt "+"post to the battery. 1o gauge fused at 30 amps to a tyco 75 amp relay, 5' of 10 gauge ground and power wires, 16 gauge switch to ground that activates the relay.

    IF I add electric pushers--only 2 10" may fit because there's a structural element that divides the condenser.

    And my alternator isn't going to take much more of this. I'm planning for a sstealth audiphile stereo with 60-amp rated high-current amp. Rarely does it take that much, but they do have needs for instantaneous high-current capability. My new ignition system is fused at 15 amps (it still works great, but the old-style jacob's Ultra coil seems to get somewhat hot on the heatsinks )

    I'm going up to an alternator with more current at lower rpms.

    any more suggestions for the cooling part?

    I'd love one of those 1" 2 rows, which are better at dissipating heat, but if I can return the new proliance one, and put in the original 4-core one(that was tested up to 20psi), maybe use the stoc fan/clutch--which worked when I put it a sink of hot water. (I still wishe there some that locked up more quickly.

    '63 Riviera
    '73 Riviera
    '76 Riviera
    '70 Eldorado
    '78 Tornado
    '94 Lex-***; it's good for something--getting parts!

  2. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Romy View Post
    I would assume 3000cfm would be enough, but I went with the biggest I could get for the 455 car:

    http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

    It's a 4000cfm puller fan and I have no mechanical fan. I can't really say if 3000 is enough, but you could try calling the tech department at Summit or some other place and ask them. Also the fan I got from a Volvo for the 350 car works really well, although I don't know how much air it flows. When it's on and you put your hand in front of the radiator, you can definitely feel a strong pull.

    You could get the 3000cfm one and give it a try. If it's not enough, you'll find out soon enough
    That summit dualfan looks almost perfect. Doesn't it fit the stock '73 cross flow core??

    Do those nylon fastener place stress on the radiator?

    After using just this one, what was the operating temp of your Buick 455?

    '63 Riviera
    '73 Riviera
    '76 Riviera
    '70 Eldorado
    '78 Tornado
    '94 Lex-***; it's good for something--getting parts!

  3. #13
    I'm going to work on this project tonight. But I feel that bobc455 has gave a great example of what would fit in the core section.

    50 amps continuous is a LOT of current!!! Idling --when the alternator puts out its least current, is going to be taxing it.

    On all my 455's I used a Delco 94-amp 12-SI (called old reliable for its almost problem free long-life.)

    I ordered a 140 amp alternator that kicks out 85 amps at about 800rpm and the full 140 amps at 1200rpms. It sounds to good to be true.

    When i had gone through many on my '63 Riviera, I was always sacrificing low rpm output vs high-rpm/current output.

    Even the last handmade 12-SI built by this good small father-son business.The only problem with theirs is that current doesn't start kicking in at low rpms, as indicated by the flickering GEN light on my dash.

    Yet i bought a re-manufactured, lifetime warranty on a ebay 12-SI that definitely keeps voltage stable even when crawling with A/c on.

    That on 3000cfm fan takes 25 amps. Adding up all the other electrical loads, one finds that even that 94 amp alternator is not equipped to meet my needs.

    My '76 Riv (with a very unusual '70 stage 1 block and heads and no smog control (besides a PCV valve) seems fine with it 63 amp 10-SI

    But my '63 is going to have a simple stereo system with 2 speakers and one Tube Driver 4 x 50 amps amp that can draw up to 60 amps (rarely).

    I think I'll put the original, cleaned, welded, stock radiator back in, install the electric puller and use the stock thermo/torque clutch 20" x 5 thermo fan.

    On e question: If its new electronic dist and coil have this 0.065" to arc will that cause any over heating? It never did, after I was finished with that install last autumn. Of course winter driving is not an indicator of real world summer temperatures.

    '63 Riviera
    '73 Riviera
    '76 Riviera
    '70 Eldorado
    '78 Tornado
    '94 Lex-***; it's good for something--getting parts!

  4. #14
    Last night--all night--I replaced the new radiator with the old one that was repaired, and added the Zirgo 16ZBFs 3000cfm electric fan. While having the engine running for 15-20 minutes, and driving to my my parking spot (about 1/2 mile away), it still boils over.

    During the addition of coolant, it seemed to be circulating, and new thermostat did open.

    The fan was in the original shroud (the fan just fit).

    I feel, after the first over heating, there's some air leak into the cooling system.

    the fan was pulling A LOT of air--and cooling off the radiator very well.

    Now, according to the Buick service manual, after a major overheating, the head gasket should either be tightened or replaced. I don't think it ever has on this car.

    I have replaced every other piece on the cooling system.

    new TA water pump

    new thermostat

    new fans (biggest flex-fan)

    all new belts and hoses.

    3 radiators (a supposed replacement, a 4-core replacement--which is the stock size) and the welded original--which was in better condition than the new ones.

    I do not want to ruin this engine, as it runs extremely well (and ran cool from last late summer to this June, after replacing the water pump and adding a flex fan last year).

    Now what should I do???

    '63 Riviera
    '73 Riviera
    '76 Riviera
    '70 Eldorado
    '78 Tornado
    '94 Lex-***; it's good for something--getting parts!

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Babylon NY
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    Suggestion

    Check out GRIFFIN RADIATORS Aluminum 2 row 1 1/4 inch core.....use a DERALE fanshroud with dual PULLER fans (4000 cfm)...do not use Derale's fan control. Here is a pic of the set up I have in my 67 GTO ( almost 800 HP with blower, AC, PS).....I have a 71 Riv...and will install the same system when I "do' the engine compartment. There is no reason a good radiator and stock clutch fan shouldn't cool your car.....as it did for many years....you may have other problems...(bad thermostat)......The set-up I have works VERY well. Eric PS. Flex fans would be my last choice. IMHO.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #16
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    United Sta
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    Electric fan

    This again…My van stays cool, no problems now or ever. BUT, somewhere along the way the van has become oh, so loud. It screams running down the road. I asked the tranny shop, after their r&r if it could be the trans and they said no. I took it back to the AC shop and asked them, they said it could be the fan clutch. They swapped it, but no change at all. I checked it myself, spins free when cool. Well, it doesnt actually spin, more like it moves, with friction. Im told thats okay.Now, once again, Im considering swapping to an electric. I picked up a brand new Flex Fan Black Magic set up for next to nothing. Prior to my swap, I think I might disconnect the fan and drive it for a short run, if quiet, Ill know for sure its the fan set up. Hmmm, I wonder if they put the fan on backward, possible? Anyways, you can go to www.epicvin.com and enter the VIN# to find out whether it was really spoiled or not and if it has undercarriage damage or accessory bag/box glass cracked. Costs cheaper than carfax though and it also has pictures of all vehicles.

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