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- Buick Compound Carburetion
- Buick F-263 Head/Gasket Swaps, effects on compression
- Straight Eight Engine Specifications
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263 Head X-Sections
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Thread: Anything new from the straight 8 hot rodders?

  1. #541

    263 head job

    I wouldn't go to EGGE for your valves. Not because I don't like them but because it would cause you more confusion towards the project. Just take your head to your local head rebuild who has experience with high performance head work. Tell him what you want to do. He has books to look up every possible valve and guide ever made. Have him boil your head, clean it up, check for cracks,and press out the old guides. Then take the head home and do your port grinding and smoothing. Return the head to the rebuilder. He will have gotten the 5/16" guides with the tapered ends that will fit your head as well as valves that he can cut down to fit your chambers. He will know what stem length to use as well as what valve springs and retainers will be required to work with your rocker assembly. Let him finish the job of cutting the new seat diameters and all the multiangle transition cuts into the valve bowls. Have him install all the parts, shim springs as necessary etc to complete the job. You should be able to walk away with a head ready to install. These engines are so unique to the head shops anymore that your shop should be intrigued by the project. If they aren't you're at the wrong shop. Best of luck with all your endeavors. TELEKENFUN

  2. #542
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    263 head job

    Thanks Telekenfun.

    Ill have to do that then..and when I do ill just exchange the stock vallve set and guides for something more usefull at egge..
    Living in the San bernardino county doesnt leave me with alot of options but i do know of a go to place in Riverside.
    They are known for doing all the work for local race nuts, drag cars and what not. So im certain they'll be able to take care of me..if not!, off to L.A county it is..

  3. #543

    Finally!!!!!

    First, let me thank everyone who has posted information on this site and thread. I ended up taking a promotion and a transfer from my last job and it totally stopped my progress on my old Buick. At any rate, now it is GAME ON!!!!! I found a shop here in Greenville, SC who has all the equipment and skill to rebuild any engine up to an 800 Cummings diesel. The lead man there is currently building a Buick STR8. So cool. The best part, for the hot tanking, cleaning, bore (If needed) and hone job it will only be $400.00. I saw the job he did on the STR8 he currently has in house and it looks really good. The real question is, how do I get what I want from this engine. It is a 248 out of a 1950 Special backed with a Dynaflow tranny. I found a shop to rebuild the Dynaflow for $500.00 plus parts. Around here, very good price. Now, for what I want. I want to make this a daily driver. I want to drive it on the interstate and be able to do 85 - 90 without worrying about something giving up. I am about to finish stripping the short block down to send it in. I can build it however I need. The head was rebuilt and has not been run since. I will have it inspected to find out exactly what was done, but the last shop who looked at it said the work was excellent. So, who has built a 248, or other STR8, that can recommend specs. I want to run a triple deuce intake with progressive linkage, and I will have custom exhaust headers. The internals of the block is where I have questions. Also, has anyone kept the stock rear-end and changed the gears? I was told it was possible to put different gears in the stock rear-end, but have no definite answers. You guys have much more experience, so hoping for some guidance. If you need anymore specs, let me know. I will impart any and all information I can. Thanks again!!!!!

  4. #544
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by gtopite1 View Post
    Also, has anyone kept the stock rear-end and changed the gears? I was told it was possible to put different gears in the stock rear-end, but have no definite answers.
    Not sure what vehicle you are building. However, as far as upgrading a Buick torque tube rear axle: any differential from 1941 to 1955 will interchange within the same year range. The axle splines are the same for those years. Be aware Buick pinned the inner propeller shaft to the pinion gear, and the splines are an interference fit. IE, they boiled the female splines of the shaft in oil, and froze the pinion shaft male splines. Slid the twain together and inserted the pin. If you are not careful you could damage these parts while separating them. If you find a complete torque tube axle assembly that's the same width as your vehicle's, and its torque tube is the same length, consider swapping one assembly for the other. The Buick axle housing comes stamped on its bottom with the numbers of the ring and pinion teeth. Removal of the rear inspection plate will reveal what's actually inside, the ring gear (crown wheel for commonwealth blokes) is stamped with the number of teeth on it and its associated pinion gear. Just do the division to determine the ratio.
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  5. #545

    Re:

    The car is a 1950 Buick Special, 4-door, Deluxe tour back sedan. It has the Dynaflow transmission and 248 Str8. I was told the rear end gears were very tall and not great for daily driving. That's why I was wondering about changing the rear ends.

  6. #546
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    1950 driveline

    Good to hear your trip went well john, how's it feel to finally have her home?, your 38.
    I'm excited about August, thanks.

    Regarding the 50 special...that dynaslug is you main drawback to achieving your goals on the road..if you have access to dead presidents swap out the whole driveline

  7. #547
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    According to the 1950 shop manual that combination should have a 3.90-1 rear gear ratio with an optional ratio of 3.60-1. With whatever tire you have on the car you can calculate your cruising road speed. Over 3000rpm engine speed will devour fuel and put engine life in question. One option is to use the tallest tire you can fit under the car [that's the cheapest way]. The next is to change the gearing as you suggested. [if you can find a set of 3.60-1]. Using an overdrive isn't feasible given the closed drivetrain. From here on it gets expensive and takes a lot of originality away from the car. You could install an overdrive trans, but then you'd have to change the rear end also. Or you could slow down your aspectations and just drive 65-70 and it would be happy and live.
    Doug

  8. #548
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    option?

    I asume a hot straight eight, backed by a dynaslug woudnt make much difference eather, even with a change in gears..I could be wrong.

  9. #549
    I was told I could get the 3.60-1. Sounds like what I was told. I was also informed by the transmission people that if I build the engine up closer to 180 - 200 h.p. that the tranny would perform much better. They said it was basically the first ever CVT tranny. That it really does not "shift", the torque converter does it all. They said the more power I can feed the tranny, the better it will perform. I think it sounds like the dynaflow gets all the names like "dynaslow" or "dynaslush" because the STR8 never gave it the power it was built for from the factory. I want the originality so will work on the gear swap. I found a disk brake bolt-on conversion, so will have the entire brake system overhauled. booster, new master and stainless brake lines. The engine is where I am looking for guidance. Upgraded pistons, cam, lifters, milling on deck and head, and if anyone has "built" one, not just speculated on a build. I have a set amount of money and need it done right the first time. Would like to know who has done upgrades. I know Alleycat claimed he was at the 200 h.p. range. That makes me extremely excited and hopeful. Would like to replicate it. As someone else said, not trying to reinvent the wheel, just want one of my own.

  10. #550
    Quote Originally Posted by Buick Guy View Post
    According to the 1950 shop manual that combination should have a 3.90-1 rear gear ratio with an optional ratio of 3.60-1. With whatever tire you have on the car you can calculate your cruising road speed. Over 3000rpm engine speed will devour fuel and put engine life in question. One option is to use the tallest tire you can fit under the car [that's the cheapest way]. The next is to change the gearing as you suggested. [if you can find a set of 3.60-1]. Using an overdrive isn't feasible given the closed drivetrain. From here on it gets expensive and takes a lot of originality away from the car. You could install an overdrive trans, but then you'd have to change the rear end also. Or you could slow down your aspectations and just drive 65-70 and it would be happy and live.
    Doug
    If I can comfortably drive 70 and only need to kick it in occasionally, I probably could live with that. I was just under the assumption that 55 - 60 was where I could expect this. So, I figured if I had to build it anyway, might as well build it well. I will keep it original. As close to original as possible.

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